Hey kids! New acquisition.

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Main Forum' started by Ianmeister, Sep 16, 2020.

  1. Ianmeister

    Ianmeister Active Member

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    got it!!
     
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  2. Ianmeister

    Ianmeister Active Member

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    Woo hoo! Got the time if cover off and all the bolts first try! Man there sure were a lot of bolts! 077F675D-3EB0-4C43-8421-E5717D48D4C7.jpeg E1087AE7-55AB-4BE0-8A3C-D751F43DD92E.jpeg
     
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  3. Ianmeister

    Ianmeister Active Member

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    Getting there! 162C3028-8348-48C8-B966-BD95C5A39A46.jpeg watch out for the hidden bolt in the cam box! (upper left corner) there’s always a hidden f**king bolt!!
     
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  4. Ianmeister

    Ianmeister Active Member

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    Ok. Head is out. 28F99B2A-0213-4C02-B901-25C089AD940B.jpeg E6CC71C3-7520-4778-8E68-8BBC191292AC.jpeg AFB973EC-D97C-42F0-A0EF-0C9FB8A93F7E.jpeg
     
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  5. Ianmeister

    Ianmeister Active Member

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    Here’s a better image of the head gasket 84969731-EBD3-4A37-B493-3936A7BE83C0.jpeg
     
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  6. Ianmeister

    Ianmeister Active Member

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    Here’s one showing how thick the crap in the intake manifold is. I ran a little screwdriver across it to show how deep it is. I guess airflow is overrated! C5C15074-C480-4AF4-AF00-B28CE4E211D4.jpeg
     
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  7. ETC(SS)

    ETC(SS) The OTHER One Percenter.....

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  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Head gasket failed between cyl one and two?

    Other areas on the verge of failure.

    And the clogging of the intake manifold EGR passages: progressively more clogged towards cyl one end?

    Kinda nuts, but I'm envious, looks like fun.
     
  9. Ianmeister

    Ianmeister Active Member

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    You are correct. It's pretty clear that the coolant was running into number2. That one is steam cleaned, the valves look different on that cylinder only and the exhaust port looks different too.

    Also I did find a little caramel looking sludge under the valve cover.

    The front main seal was leaking and the bottom of the engine was sludged up real nice too. Looks like the PO was using thick conventional oil to deal with oil loss. I got a full gasket kit so I'm replacing everything I can reasonably get to.

    For now, I need a nap!
     
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  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    #70 Mendel Leisk, Oct 1, 2020
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2020
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  11. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Even if the head is still flat/straight, you need to replace the valve guide seals!
    NOW is the easiest time to do it, while the head is off.
     
  12. Ianmeister

    Ianmeister Active Member

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    Yes. It's at the machinenshop now. They start with a $50 pressure test to make sure it's not cracked. From there they test to see if the valves still hold pressure. If its a yes they swap out the valve seals, clean it up and send me on my way for 150. If it needs a full valve job then maybe $350 total. They were thankful I had the correct Toyota valve seals to give them.

    For now I'm going after the struts, shocks and Hybrid cooling fan.

    Strangely the cooling fan had very little dust. My gen 2 looked like a dryer lint trap. I wonder if maybe this has is on its second battery?
     
  13. Ianmeister

    Ianmeister Active Member

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    Woo hoo! The head passed and only needs seals and a good cleaning. I’ll get it back today!
     
  14. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    That's good! You got to it before he head warped. That's always good.

     
  15. Ianmeister

    Ianmeister Active Member

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    And she’s back! The verdict is no cracks and the valves are in perfect condition with no measurable wear! So new seals, a good cleaning, a quick resurface and I’m home with it for a total of $212.50. Not bad I’d say. What amazes me is that after 227k miles there is no appreciable wear. Most cars historically would be clapped out hoopties or junked by now. This one is just getting started! C2751AAD-71B6-4730-8829-B963E5064B61.jpeg
     
  16. Gliderguy

    Gliderguy Junior Member

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    I went down this very road about a year ago.
    Looking at that head gasket I say it was leaking coolant into 3 of 4 cylinders. I replaced my head gasket at 175k and only had one part of the gasket where the black sealant was worn away.
    A neat trick for the rough running on startup is to carefully vent the pressure off of the coolant overflow tank every time you shut the engine off. A good head gasket will only pressurize the coolant tank a little. A blown one will sound like you are opening a hot 2 liter of soda every time. releasing the pressure this way will keep coolant from being pushed into the cylinder while the car sits, and minimize the rough starts. Some old school mechanics would intentionally leave the radiator or overflow cap loose to prevent pressure from building up specifically to solve this problem so a car could limp along for a little while longer if needed. Couldnt tell from the pictures, did you rotate the engine and make sure all pistons came up to the same level to rule out bent connecting rods?
    Mine had almost no visible wear at 175k. I replaced the water pump too. There is some discussion that the head gasket sealing material was not really compatible with the kind of coolant Toyota uses, and they seem to fail pretty reliably in the range that both you and I experienced. I have yet to hear of a single re-do needed after a head gasket change, I think the newer or aftermarket gaskets must use a more robust material.

    The whole rest of my car that has 192k on it now is so tight I cannot believe it. I think it will go until the insulation falls off the wires or some plastic parts get too brittle and start falling apart wholesale.

    Change the transmission fluid if you have not. It doesnt cost much and if you want a few more hundred thousand miles, it would be a good idea.
     
  17. Gliderguy

    Gliderguy Junior Member

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    Watch closely for the timing chain to jump when you go to release the tensioner, I had to try three times, the first two times it jumped a tooth. I don't think you could double check yourself too much on this particular step before you button everything back up. Everything else was very straight forward. If you got it apart you will get it back together. I took a weekend to get mine apart, got the head work done through the week, and put it back together the following week. That was about 17,000 miles ago and all is still well.
     
  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    @Ianmeister i'm curious if you locked the cams when removing? Not sure how crucial it is, but I believe it makes reassemble easier. There's a trick of putting a tri-fold strips of shop towel in one cam shaft journal, then gently retightening, so they hold positions.
     
  19. Ianmeister

    Ianmeister Active Member

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    Indeed I did!! image.jpg
     
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  20. Ianmeister

    Ianmeister Active Member

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    Thanks for the pointers. If you look up to earlier posts you’ll see the list of things I decided to replace. Add to that list all fluids, radiator hoses and the thermostat. The PO replaced the water pump 1000 miles ago with the correct unit.
     
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