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Highbeam 50% DRL mod, completed

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Accessories and Modifications' started by xliderider, Jan 7, 2013.

  1. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    Just purchased the deluxe version of the solid state DRL control module linked in first post.

    DRL Relay DRL Module Daylight Running Lights Best Product on Market See It | eBay

    Also bought one of these oem-style dash switches to control power to the DRL module:



    Right now, I have an illuminated rocker switch that I have mounted in a modified blank in the dash, but the illumination is a little too bright. Plus, this switch should be a perfect fit in the dash cutout. The icing on the cake is it's correctly labelled as DRL. :cool:

    Will post results when the DRL module is received and installed...
     
  2. burstaneurysm

    burstaneurysm Active Member

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    Has the new module arrived? I'm curious to see how well it performs.
     
  3. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    Yes, it's been working great. (y)

    I didn't want to tap into the oem highbeam hot wires, so I bought some 9005 harnesses on eBay and spliced in the wires from the DRL module. The harness on the left is spliced with the 9005 connector removed. The harness on the right is completed, with the spliced wire coming off the hot wire (note: both wires from DRL module are purple, but I had to extend the passenger side a bit by using a white wire, didn't have a purple one). These plug right in, between the oem highbeam connector and the bulbs.

    [​IMG]

    I believe the lower cost DRL module would work just as well. You don't get a fuse with the lower priced module, so I'd just wire it with an inline fuse holder on the main power wire.
     
  4. WNY-HYBRID

    WNY-HYBRID Member

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    I'm going to go ahead and say this is way too much work.
     
  5. Dundrinu

    Dundrinu New Member

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    Hi xliderider thanks for your review.
    I bought the same module which i have already in hand but i'm waiting for the delivery of the 9005 harness because like you i do not want to tap in the original harness.
    I would like you to clarify some things please to facilitate installation as the instructions aren't very intuitive. The power and ground wires are straight forward. The purple wires are tapped onto the highbeam. The green wire which as i understand will signal the module if lights are turned on or off, where did you connect it ? Then there are another two wires Black - Optional power "after the ignition" and White - Ground after switching module which seem to be optional. Have you connected these two?

    Many thanks
     
  6. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    The black wire is optional, it can be wired to a wire/fuse that is energized in Ready mode to signal the DRL module to turn on the DRLs. It shouldn't be necessary, as the DRL will sense the voltage difference between ignition off (approx 12.5v) and ignition On/Ready mode (approx 13.7v) and turn on automatically. I actually did wire mine with the Black wire.

    The White wire supplies +12v when the DRL module is supplying power to the highbeams. So if you were to wire the white wire to an indicator light mounted in the dashboard and then ground it after the bulb, the light would tell you when the DRLs are on.

    As for the green wire, I previously installed the aftermarket oem foglights. In those instructions, it tells you where a brown wire is, behind the left side of the dash that is energized only when the parking lights/lowbeam lights are on. I connected my green wire to this brown wire as well. You don't have to go through the firewall though, you could use the + wire from the lowbeam harness for this connection.

    SCH-I535
     
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  7. Dundrinu

    Dundrinu New Member

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    Managed to install the drl module, pretty straightforward and functions as expected.
    Xliderider thanks for your guidance! One question for you perhaps you have a good suggestion.! I d like to change the high-beam bulb to get a whiter effect, do you have any recommendations? Heard/read led alternatives are not good enough for high-beam?! Thanks for your feedback
     
  8. Dundrinu

    Dundrinu New Member

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    Managed to install the drl module, pretty straightforward and functions as expected.
    Xliderider thanks for your guidance! One question for you perhaps you have a good suggestion.! I d like to change the high-beam bulb to get a whiter effect, do you have any recommendations? Heard/read led alternatives are not good enough for high-beam?! Thanks for your feedback
     
  9. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    Whiter for highbeam or at 50%, DRL mode?

    For highbeam, you'd have to get a bluish coated bulb to filter out the yellow to get a cooler, whiter color temperature. However, I've heard that those blue bulbs look kind of muddy orange at reduced DRL power.

    For DRLs, I actually want to go more yellow. I'm thinking about changing from clear bulbs to yellow bulbs so the DRLs look more yellow than orange.

    For DRLs, you don't want a white color temperature because it blends in with the daylight/sunlight. You want something orange or yellow to be visible. The exception are super bright LEDs like oem Mercedes and Audi which are visible because they are whiter/cooler color temp than daylight, plus they are very bright.

    Read the reviews over at Amazon on the Nokya yellow 9005 halogen bulbs. A lot of Honda Civic owners have positive feedback on using it for DRLs/highbeams.

    Yes, LEDs aren't suited for highbeam, or lowbeam applications. They simply aren't bright enough, or the light spread isn't very good.

    SCH-I535
     
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  10. Dundrinu

    Dundrinu New Member

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    To test the installation i temporarily connected the + red wire directly in a free slot in the fuse box as seen in the pic attached. This however is temporary and hemce i need yor kind advise as to the best and proper way to connect to the supply. Many thanks
     

    Attached Files:

  11. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    My setup is pictured in the last image, in the very long, first post of this thread. ;)

    Two red wires, one is for my DRL module, the other is for my foglights.

    Just wrap some electrical tape around the wire and top of your connector to insulate it from inadvertent short circuits in case you touch something near it. Then tuck the wire in to follow the fuse box layout a bit.
     
  12. jzchen

    jzchen Newbie!

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    Thank you for the great updates!

    I thought I'd mention since I finally got the courage to start up again and you said to let you know...

    I purchased a fuse box from a salvaged Prius c because although I was able to get the Toyota part number for the relay block, I could not find any info on the harness pins necessary to put into it. I carefully extracted the relay block and some of the harness, (the rest was cut off as I didn't really want buy the whole harness for the car.) Next step is to try to see how to carefully open up the fuse box.

    Will continue on the Prius v forum....
     
  13. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    Good luck with that. ;)

    I saw the pic you posted of the relay and that sure is a mess of wiring attached to it. Very complex.

    SCH-I535
     
  14. jzchen

    jzchen Newbie!

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    Thanks for the well wishes!

    The relay has a total of six wires. Not too far off from your install. The rest of the wiring I kept because I don't solder/crimp well, and wanted to keep my options open. (It's harder to diagnose after I've crimped/soldered because I've done such a lowsy job in the past that that was the cause of failure.) I can run the wire I kept to the respective places in the fuse box, ie. the H-LP RH HI and H-LP LH and keep the original in tact. Looks like there is an open "FLF-S", (I am not familiar with this fuse type so I had to look up fuse images,) slot in the fuse box. I will test if it has voltage. If it does, I will only possibly need to cut one wire under there and connect that one, the output from main body ECU to turn on the high beams, or I may just run wire with the other I have to run to the DRL output and disconnect the original at the ECU. Then the original harnes would be left intact, and I can put it back to the original if necessary.
     
  15. jzchen

    jzchen Newbie!

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    I just found this information because I subscribed to TIS for 2 days. If you are having trouble matching the color/intensity of a Toyota DRL system with the green relay in the fuse box, it's probably because that pulsed square wave, actually it looks more like a rectangular wave with long side going up, changes with the ambient light sensor. It says the period decreases, essentially the frequency increases with higher ambient light. Neat stuff....
     
  16. Dundrinu

    Dundrinu New Member

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    Something strange is heppening to my drl lights! When i installed and tested them in the garage all seemed working to perfection but now on daily use i sometimes have found that the lights go off. So i startred monitoring! The drl are alwyas on when i start but some times along yhe route they go off. At first i thought that this happenss when i press the park button and i was almost sure that this was the cause as i saw it hapenning once. Just a few min ago i was driving behind a car and i could see the reflection of my drl lights on this car, then all of a sudden they went off. I have not tried it but probably if i had to switch on the lights and off the drl lights would come on!

    My installation is simple, 12v connected to fuse box, ground to car body, green wires to parking lights. I have not used the black and the white cables. Perhaps i should use the black ready signal cable?

    Many thanks for your help
     
  17. jzchen

    jzchen Newbie!

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    Probably voltage fluctuation is turning it on and off. The battery is really small, I just realized yesterday, and has special charging instructions. I agree you should connect the ready wire....

    If you like a switch like xl's you can try 00016-32270-05. It's in the DRL kit SET sells. The instructions are available on TIS. Call dealer for availability first though.

    SCH-R530M ?
     
    #57 jzchen, Jun 3, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2014
  18. Dundrinu

    Dundrinu New Member

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    Where is the easiest ready signal ? I seem to remember reading in thus forum attaching to the windscreen washer pump!?
     
  19. jzchen

    jzchen Newbie!

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    Since I don't know where you put your DRL box/unit, I'm afraid this is an extremely hard question to answer, that and I'm afraid the wiring in my car is different and I don't have the wiring diagram, it'll cost me ($15,) to access TIS. (Wish you asked me last Thurs. or Fri. when I did.) You took a picture of your relay/fuse box. those clump of wires in the lower left of the picture you can check for ready signal with a voltmeter. (Sorry if it's already obvious, but 0V when ready light in dash is off or 12+V when ready light is on.)
     
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  20. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    Yes, some members use a wire from the washer fluid pump as a 12v Ready power source. I can't remember what color the wire was though.

    Another option would be to use a fuse tap in the engine fuse box. I believe the fuse for the inverter pump is only hot in Ready mode.