How do you reset ABS light & yellow ((!)) ?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Michael Carleone, Mar 20, 2015.

  1. Michael Carleone

    Michael Carleone New Member

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    When I turn in on the lights are still there.
    Now i got these codes
    C1203 = Electronic Control Module Communication Circuit Malfunction
    C1345 = Linear Solenoid Valve Offset Learning Undone
    C1451 = Motor Drive Permission Malfunction.

    Someone please help. Im a college student and I cannot afford dealer sharks for sure **bangs his head on the wall** :(

    I recently put on new wheels and the tire pressure sensor light came on (!). So i tried to clear that with the obd scanner but i accidentally off set the abs, parking brake and traction control lights on :((
    so I came here and did the 4 & 13 pin procedure with braking 8 times. That didn't work. Now i have these codes

    C1203 = Electronic Control Module Communication Circuit Malfunction
    C1345 = Linear Solenoid Valve Offset Learning Undone
    C1451 = Motor Drive Permission Malfunction.

    Someone please help. Im a college student and I cannot afford dealer sharks for sure **bangs his head on the wall** :(

    My car is a 2012 base model prius. Its that girly turquoise color (i know my mom gave me her car)
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Hi Mike,

    That procedure probably should work, so since it doesn't work for you, that means your car has a a real problem. As a 2012 model, is it not covered under the 3 year/36K mile warranty?

    What is your means to retrieve the DTC? If you want to be clear about the correctness of the codes, get Mini VCI.
     
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  3. yibo829

    yibo829 Junior Member

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    What happened to your original wheels? Were the TPMS installed to the new wheels the original ones from the old wheels? If the TPMS are new then they'll need to synced to the car by the dealer.
    Toyota dealers most likely will check out the problems for you if you go in for an oil change, or else they will charge somewhere between $49-$99 just for diagnostics.


    iPad ?
     
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  4. Michael Carleone

    Michael Carleone New Member

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    One of them had a crack and i replaced them. i installed the new ones myself, but did not transfer the TPMS to the new ones. Could that be the cause of the codes? can i go without TPMS?
     
  5. Michael Carleone

    Michael Carleone New Member

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    Thanks Patrick!

    First of all thanks for all your helps in this forum.
    secondly, you are correct its not covered under the warranty.
    I used the Genisys EVO ($3k) scanner to obtain the codes at my college automotive class.
     
  6. Michael Carleone

    Michael Carleone New Member

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    One of them had a crack and i replaced them. i installed the new ones myself, but did not transfer the TPMS to the new ones. Could that be the cause of the codes? can i go without TPMS?
     
  7. trentofdestiny

    trentofdestiny Master Finagler

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    You can go without TPMS. The tire light will stay on and blink but will not affect the car's operation. Code C1451 cause could be brake fluid leaks or air bleeding not performed.
     
  8. trentofdestiny

    trentofdestiny Master Finagler

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    C1345 means you need a scanner capable of doing the linear valve learning procedure. And C1203 is a sort of generic fault indicator for the ABS system / skid control ECU. I'm not sure what you did with the scanner to cause the lights to come on but sounds like there's nothing wrong with the car, just needs relearned. Another possibility is a dying 12V battery...if you had the car on but not ready for a length of time trying the scanner, and the battery was weak, it could've caused this as well.
     
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  9. Michael Carleone

    Michael Carleone New Member

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    Both your predictions are correct. the car has been sitting for over 7 months, so im guessing the 12v battery did die, but i recharged it.

    Another question i have, IS there any other way to reset the lights manually besides using a toyota scanner? because i went to ask the dealer and they said they would charge 250$ :(((
     
  10. trentofdestiny

    trentofdestiny Master Finagler

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    Yes, you can use an aftermarket scanner (which is still gonna be expensive) that is able to do the required procedure/test. I am not sure that a simple ABS clear codes will take care of it. A lot more scanners can do that, than the ones that can do the relearn. I suggest if you don't have any mechanic friends, try a different Toyota dealer. There may be one cheaper within say half an hour of you. If you haven't had the battery tested and/or replaced, I would do that first (at least the test). It may not stay fixed if it was caused by the battery and not by your using the Genisys scanner.
     
  11. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Man, that is one evil code, and it just cost me a $15 re-up on my techinfo account to get to the bottom of it.

    C1451.png

    In my case, I had wanted to flop my calipers up just to inspect the pads and the pins, and I didn't want them doing any self-tests while I had them flopped up, and because I'm too lazy for resetting radio presets and the clock, I figured I'd be clever and leave the 12 V battery connected, and just put the brakes in Invalid Mode.

    That worked great, only when I was done, there was this C1451 that wouldn't go away, and I had only failsafe hydraulic braking.

    So ... it turns out the C1451 is a sort of protect-you-from-yourself feature. Any time the brakes are put in Invalid Mode, the car assumes you might be opening the brake lines somewhere to replace something, so you might then need to do air bleeding. It doesn't want to make anything worse by allowing the electronic brake control to work (and possibly spread around any air that might be in the system), so it sets this C1451 code that completely locks out ECB operation, and the only way to clear this code is to complete the Air Bleeding procedure in Techstream. (At least, the only way I could find!)

    DTC clear commands from Techstream won't clear it. The Tc+CG 8-pedal-strokes dance won't clear it. Even completely disconnecting the 12 V battery won't clear it—it's nonvolatile. (So, yeah, I ended up having to reset the radio stations anyway, grumble.)

    And it never occurred to me to even try the Air Bleeding utility in Techstream, because I knew I hadn't opened the system at all or done anything that would call for bleeding. They just assume that any time you ask for Invalid Mode, it might be because you'll be opening lines, so they set the code to force you through the bleeding procedure regardless.

    And why did they call it "Motor Drive Permission Malfunction" instead of "Dude, run the Air Bleeding utility"?

    To keep things easy, when you know for sure you didn't do anything that could let air in, you can select the shorter "Usual air bleeding" option in the Air Bleeding utility, and then just click Next through the right rear, left rear, right front, and left front bleeding steps, without really fussing with the bleed screws. (I guess I did pump the pedal each time, in case it was watching for that.)

    The next six steps it goes through are to depressurize and then re-pressurize the accumulator, six times over. Again, you don't really have to do anything there either, beyond clicking Next and listening to the PFSSsssshhh...pumppumppumppumppump ... PFSSsssshhh...pumppumppumppumppump. What made that fun is my OBD-II dongle tends to "lose communication" with the car now and then, which only calls for clicking OK on the alert box that pops up, but then the whole bleed sequence starts over. I got about three times all the way to the sixth depressurize step and starting over, before it finally got all the way through. Argh.

    But anyway, once you successfully get through the bleeding procedure, the C1451 is magically gone, and everything is happy again.

    Next time I guess I'll just unhook the 12 V battery. Resetting the radio stations doesn't seem so bad any more.

    -Chap
     
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  12. Atif Gill

    Atif Gill New Member

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    Great ChapmanF. Your post really helped me to resolve this issue, and you truly called it evil, error code 1451. I have been struggling for 3 days to remove check lights. After going through air bleeding process, magic worked. All set.
    Thanks a lot for such a helpful post.
     
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  13. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You're welcome! I'd have to say, the most important takeaway is: like most stuff, it's covered clearly in the repair manual. I pulled my hair and swore at it for about three fourths of a day to avoid feeding another $15 to the techinfo site, but as soon as I did, I looked up the code, read what to do, did that, and moved on to other projects.

    -Chap
     
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  14. amos

    amos Active Member

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    @ChapmanF when you had this code, did you get all kinds of displays after that? like abs and skid control light? did the abs work?
    im having the same code now, but my car is 2013
     
  15. Dxta

    Dxta Senior Member

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    Y not just try following @ChapmanF post, and see what happens?

    This implies you've for to have a tech stream or so to do the commands.

    I have learnt something today too!


    Dxta
     
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  16. amos

    amos Active Member

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    ah not possible, car is at the dealer, i think they tried to reset aother code about the egr and caused a diferent problem .now the skid control ecu sends codes such as c1451 which causing the abs pump to stop working. thats what i understood from @ChapmanF . maybe a good bleeding procedure will help, it helped @Atif Gill
    i never had any issue with brakes so im optimistic that skid ecu is not gone.
     
  17. Dxta

    Dxta Senior Member

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    Yeah, you might be right about the skid ecu not gone. I didn't infer that either.

    Info us what the dealer says after the car has being fixed.
     
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  18. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    While the C1451 code is present, all electronic brake control is inhibited. You have the failsafe manual braking, acting hydraulically on the front wheels only. And dash warning lights are on.

    If that's the only code, completing the Techstream bleed procedure resolves it, the warning lights go out, and everything works again.

    -Chap
     
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  19. amos

    amos Active Member

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    @ChapmanF
    lights on dah are the skid control, abs, brake and the ((!)).
    no regenerative, no abs, little beep for every hump on the street.
    in addition to the c1451 i have c1345 linear solenoid valve offset learning undone. i drove the car for about 20 miles (1 hour) since all this happened but codes still there.
    i will ask ask the dealer to perform bleed procedure. i dont know what triggered all these codes. it all started when car was at the dealership.
     
  20. CR94

    CR94 Senior Member

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    Thanks for the detailed description! Does this mean the non-Techstream bleeding method in the manual can not be performed without triggering the evil code and associated bad behavior? I recall Invalid Mode is involved. Thanks!
     
    #20 CR94, Dec 12, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2017
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