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How To: LED Doors

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Accessories and Modifications' started by J Dunn, Apr 2, 2013.

  1. J Dunn

    J Dunn Active Member

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    Hello All. I decided to do a new thread since it's gonna have a lot of pics. I finished the back passenger side door, both inside handle and outside handle.

    I used 1" LED strip lights from Home page. Each of the 4 doors have 1 1" LED light strip per door handle on the outside handles. The 2 front doors have 2 1" LED light strips on the inside door panel; 1 in the door handle, and 1 in the "cup holder/pocket." The 2 rear doors use 1 1" LED light strip per inside door panel/handle. I used mostly 18g wire purchased in 100 ft length on eBay.

    The inside door panels are all wired to turn on when the doors are opened. The outside door handles are tapped into the rear inside dome light, so they turn on when the car is unlocked or when standing close to the drivers door when the key fob is detected.

    Now, credit for the idea must be giving to Rodney/Hawaiianbuilt for the LED lighting. Here is a link to his page:
    JDM / Japanese VIP Styling: My Prius III Build | Page 40 | PriusChat

    Also, I want to give credit to CivicSky for a great pic thread with the instructions on how to tap into the front driver and passenger panels in order to get the power source for all of the inside LED lighting. His thread is here:
    DIY JDM style side mirrors combo lights (Signal+Parking+Courtesy lights) | PriusChat
    CivicSky gave me the courage to finally tap into the rear dome light. I did the wiring a bit different but in theory it's the same. What I did was use a universal LED kit that had one of those spring plugs that fits different size bulb housings. This has a wire attached to it that plugs into the actual LED panel. SO I decided to just tap into the wire and split it down both sides of the car, and bam it worked...haha yeah it's kinda ghetto =P

    Anyway on to the pics! 003.JPG
    First undo the two screws.
    004.JPG
    Then starting at the bottom of the panel gently? pull the panel from the door....I seriously just put my head into the panel and yanked...and luckily didn't break any clips =)
    005.JPG
    Door panel off
    006.JPG
    Remove the door guard. You can see in this pic the other wires I used from tapping into the dome light, also the rca cable for the sub in the trunk. Yes I wire tied everything afterwards hehe
    007.JPG
    Remove the inside panel on the B piller.
    008.JPG
    This stumped me...the front doors were easy enough to run the wires through the door grommets. The rear door has a plug. Soooo the top on bottom of the plug has a little notch that I drilled out in order to get the cable through. Now, I'm sure there's a better way to do it, but I couldn't for that life of me figure out how. That and I'm impatient and lazy, thus I drilled!
    009.JPG
    Pull off the rubber grommet so that you can run the wire through it. This was by far the hardest most time consuming part, requiring lots of curse words, cut up hands and patience. The front door again was ez pz This was a b!tch...for me at least.
    010.JPG
    Wire ran through B biller. Again I was doing the outside and inside door handle and because I was tapping into different sources for them to turn on, I had to run 2 sets of wires. 1 through the drilled out top notch and the other through the lower drilled out notch.
    011.JPG
    Here you can kinda see how the wire comes out of the plug.
    015.JPG
    This is how the wires once ran through the door look. I used Gorilla tap on the inside of the door to keep the wires out of the way of the windows and to keep them quiet. You do have to cut into the plastic sheet in order to access things inside the door. I found trying to pull the plastic off left black sticky stuff everywhere which is a pain in the arse to get off your clothes for example...not that I know haha. Ok I do...
    016.JPG
    I guess it's not too late to tell you that the window should be rolled up all the way. I forgot that I had the window cracked which made me think it was harder then the other side I did...duh. The yellow clip in the pic is part of the outside door handle attachment.
    017.JPG
    Now is a good time to take some deep breaths and relax cause you're about to drill a hole into your precious car. I jammed a rag into the door while fully pulled out 1: to keep the door handle open enough to get the drill bit in and 2: to keep from scratching the door. I used a dremal with a drill bit just big enough to get the wire through the hole.
    018.JPG
    You want to drill the handle towards the front of the car. This is because there is less movement for the wires, and it's really the only way to get the wire to the inside of the door.
    019.JPG
    Hole Drilled. Remember to put Silicone over the hole once the LED is mounted!!
    020.JPG This is what the 1" LED light strip looks like. You will need to cut off the plug in order to send the wires through the door.
    021.JPG
    Wire on the inside of the door. Remember to give your self enough wire to work with so that you can splice/solder/connect to the other wires already ran into the door keeping in mind that you need to route the wire around the window tracks.
    022.JPG
    LED strip mounted using supplied 3M tap. Lovely. And super low profile.
    025.JPG
    Ok I gotta admit I rushed the heck out of this part. But when my wife and 5 year old are yelling at me to come inside to eat dinner I listen...I don't need 2 p!ssed off girls in the house! Again please take care in your wire routing. I use gorilla tap cause it's strong and that;s all I had at the time. I will more than likely go back in the door to shorting the wires and solder them. But the again like I said, I'm impatient and lazy...and they work anyway...
    026.JPG
    Ok dinner was yummy. Back to the car. I used T taps to connect to the wires coming from the dome light. Again, using wire ties after the install will keep everything nice and tidy and less likely to get damaged. Job Done!
    027.JPG
    For the door panel LED I again used a 1" LED strip. I drilled from the back side of the door panel making sure to clean up the hole after. Cut the plug off the LED wiring to get it through the hole.
    028.JPG
    Yay. Don't drill too far back or else you won't be able to get the plastic cover back on.
    029.JPG
    This is under the front door guard panel where I have already ran a bunch of other wires for LEDs. I used T taps to tap into the wires. Refer back to CivicSky's link to see how the wiring is done behind the passenger side kick panel.
    030.JPG
    Put all the door guard panels back on, the B pillar panel, and stand back and enjoy!
    031.JPG 032.JPG

    If any one has questions please feel free to ask, and I will do my best to answer them in a timely manner. It was fun stuff doing all the lights, and for now I think I'm done...except I'm going to change the blue lights for the feet lighting to purple. Have a great night!
     
    CivicSky, wotcher, Tracksyde and 5 others like this.
  2. LulzChicken

    LulzChicken Prius Enthusiast

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    THANK YOU! Wow, your car is so nice. I really like it! That feet lighting is also very awesome! Thank you for sharing!
     
    Bullet Salvador likes this.
  3. 2k1Toaster

    2k1Toaster Brand New Prius Batteries

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    The door handle lighting looks great. But the undercarriage lighting looks too spot-beamy. A larger number of lower intensity LEDs would provide more a glow.
     
  4. J Dunn

    J Dunn Active Member

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    Thanks!
    I agree! I have been thinking that for awhile. I saw a post from another member who used long strip lighting which basically made the whole underside appear to glow. I liked that a lot and will probably be doing that soon.
     
  5. B2FiNiTY

    B2FiNiTY Active Member

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    really nice man.

    drilling into those panels made me cringe but it was well worth it!
     
  6. ucsmfu

    ucsmfu Senior Member

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    was it easy to put back the rubber grommet ?

    thanks
     
  7. J Dunn

    J Dunn Active Member

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    Ok you talked me (or I myself) into buying different lighting for the puddle lights. Vleds has 48" LED strips that'll be perfect for giving it a glow effect instead of the spot light look. And just incase anyone is wondering, I'm not representing Vleds I just happen to buy most of my LEDs from them as well as some other places.
     
  8. J Dunn

    J Dunn Active Member

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    No...the rubber grommet was not easy to put back on the plug. But once you get a corner going it goes on fairly easy. I found it eaiser to put back on with the back door closed accessing it with the front door open.
     
  9. ucsmfu

    ucsmfu Senior Member

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    i pulled out that same rubber grommet for the rear hatch led lights, there's 2, one slides back in the hole, the other one has to fit underneath that plastic housing which surrounds the wires. How did you get it back on ? I couldn't get the hatch one back on, so I just put electrical tape around it, loll
     
  10. AZGeek

    AZGeek Semi-informed Member

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    Just installed the led hatch lights this afternoon. I agree that the rectangular grommet is a pain. I was finally able to get it back on by removing the plastic retainer. I did that by prying up one side (right) to expose a latch clip/pin doohickey. I depressed that and then lifted the right side up and pulled out to release for the left clip/pin. Once the plastic retainer is out it is pretty easy to get the grommet back on.

    I also had to cut the male connector off in order to get the wires through the rubber loom. Then I soldered the connector back on.

    I also added a blue led to each light fixture to match the blue led lights for the footwells. I have them temporarily connected to the license plate lights and will be changing that to connect them to the footwell lighting. I will post pics when I have that done.




    iPad ?
     
    ucsmfu likes this.
  11. J Dunn

    J Dunn Active Member

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    Sweet! Glad you were able to find away around that plug. If I ever get to the trunk/hatch lights I'll try and do the same as you. Thanks for your post (y)
     
  12. ucsmfu

    ucsmfu Senior Member

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    getting the wires through that black tube was hard too, i wrapped the wires around the stick and just shoved it through. I didn't bother re soldering it back, just used electrical tape. As far as the grommet goes, I just used electrical tape to cover the sides. If I have some time Ill try to attempt to get the plastic retainer off. It is a pain ><
     
  13. AZGeek

    AZGeek Semi-informed Member

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