How to Replace Gen II Prius Back Door Opener Switch

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Zedhomme, Aug 25, 2013.

  1. Zedhomme

    Zedhomme Member

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    Vehicle:
    2016 Prius v wagon
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    Three
    There have been a lot of blogs and posts on various sites about the Back Door Opener Switch on Gen II Prius turning into a tar-like gooey mess. Some have attributed it to hot weather or exposure to some chemical. My car is garaged both at home and work and still became gooey. Never exposed to any chemicals. The switch itself still works, but leaves a residue on your hand when touched to open the rear hatch.
    I haven't seen any real statistics or causes, but there may have been a bad batch of rubber covers for the switches. Some have given a manufacture date that is within a month or two of mine. My 2007 Prius has a 10/06 manufacture date. To check yours, look on driver's door frame info plate. There have been posts of the same problem on other models too like Tundra, Highlander as well.
    There has been no Toyota response to replace it beyond the normal warranty period.
    This thread is for replacement of the Gen II Prius Back Door Opener Switch to replace the tarlike degraded switch cover.
    Makes sense to also Replace License Plate Lights at same time if you have 60,000 miles or more.
     

    Attached Files:

    #1 Zedhomme, Aug 25, 2013
    Bobby2005GA and bisco like this.
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    great write up and pix, well done, thanks!(y)
     
    #2 bisco, Aug 25, 2013
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  3. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    #3 Patrick Wong, Aug 26, 2013
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  4. BH-Bill

    BH-Bill New Member

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    Many thanks, Zedhomme, for this incredibly well-documented DIY Guide. It's by far the best such article I've found anywhere.

    That said, I'd like to offer three small suggestions, if I might, about things that I learned while going through the steps.

    1. After removing the four nuts from inside the hatch (the ones that require the 10mm Deep Socket), I briefly tried to pull the METAL framework that makes those nuts hard to reach toward me (that is, pull it into the car with me)-- thinking that it was the assembly that was held in place by those nuts. But in fact, as the name "Outside Garnish Sub-assembly" should have informed me, it's actually the PLASTIC piece with the Toyota logo on it, on the outside of the car, just below the hatch's rear window glass.

    2. When re-installing the Outside Garnish Sub-assembly, I found that the rubber gasket at seals the gap above that sub-assembly tends to get caught (trapped? pinched?) and needs straightening out. To prevent it's getting caught in the first place, I used a wide, thin flat bladed tool, covered with a layer of electrician's tape. (technically, it's a tool you use to spread and smooth drywall compound). By bending the gasket slightly, away from the sub-assembly, it can be kept out of the way, while you "snap in" the connectors on one side, then moved to the opposite side, and used again in the same way.

    3. When reinstalling the Trim Board, pay special attention to the area where the u-shaped, tubular metal "striker" protrudes beyond the edge of the hatch. By Striker, I mean the sturdy metal piece that actually "engages" ("sticks into" or "is grabbed by," if you will ) the lock mechanism that's just below the floor of the hatch area. There is a squareish plastic plate surrounding this striker, and that plate should NOT end up above the Trim Board, but rather should be under the Trim Board -- and thus, be held in place once the final piece snaps into place.
     
    #4 BH-Bill, Jul 6, 2014
    texas.stevens likes this.
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