HV Battery wrong voltages on Torque

Holy Smokes Batman! 'clean thoroughly..sockets on the ecu' and 'contacts wet' and 'battery contact cream' sound alot like you enabled a short

 

I don't think anyone in this thread is suggesting that the ECU is the problem at this point. You have some investigation and testing to do before you can arrive there.

See my post #13 for info that describes what is going on with the P0AC0 or SFO's post #20 which is the full workup for P0AFA.

 

Hoping and assuming can tend to lead to wasting time and money. Get the test equipment you need, or at the very least a middle of the line (as in, not the cheapest you can find) or better digital multimeter (DMM).

But it is up to you how you go about it.

 

You need a windows laptop, preferably an old spare one so you can dedicate it to Techstream, plus an OBD-II to USB cable to connect it. A lot of people who don't need super reliable use Mini VCI cable, which is the cheapest $20-$40; then there is VxDiag which is a better cable ~$80; then Tactrix Openport 2.0 for around $169 (there are cheap knock-off of these, don't buy them) and then there is the Toyota tested Mongoose for around $495. Don't buy the knock-off Mangoose cables. The Mini VCI and VxDiag cables come with Techstream. I'm not sure if the Tactrix Openport 2.0 one does.

 

Aux Battery 11.4 volts is too low!

 

It may have tested good, but it is essentially flat at 12.2 V. You need to put that puppy on a charger and get the voltage up to 13.2 V (or at least 12.9 V). Then it is fully charged.

Having said that, the state of the 12 V is not your problem.

You cleared the codes after installing the new ECU, didn't you? You also installed the HV safety interlock correctly, yeah? Seems it is easy to miss step 3.

 

Jorge,

Glad to hear you're making progress. Any time you disconnect the 12v battery, the power button must be pressed 2 times. Put your foot on the brake and press the power button once.(Your dash will now look similar to your photo with all the alarms). Maintain your foot on the brake and press the power button again. If everything is "normal", all the alarms will clear and the car will go ready.

If this is not happening, can you describe step by step what you are doing and the condition of the dash lights?
Do your brake lights come on when you press the brake pedal?

 

It will need to charge for much longer than a couple of hours.

Also, if it were me and they tried to sell me a new battery that was only 11,8 V, I would reject it and ask for another that is at least 12.9 V and if AGM, it should be at least 13.2 V. Who knows how long that battery has sat nearly fully discharged and all the while it is sitting in that state it is irreversibly being damaged. If you accept that battery, don't expect it to last for very long – a year or two at the most.

Check particularly the one below the safety interlock. It is a single black wire, I believe.

 

You didn't think to mention that at the start?

Are you 100% sure you connected the jump cable correctly, red to +ve and black to -ve at both ends?

Running the 12 V battery flat, as you did and then it sat like that for who knows how long was probably the death knell of your original battery.

 

Hmm, Interesting.

Your description sounds a lot like a jump gone bad. Check the 100 A fuse in the +ve terminal block at the battery, and also the big fusible link in the main fuse box at the left (as you sit in the driver's seat) of the engine bay.