HV Batterys fine but acting like not!!

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Samiea, Jul 2, 2019.

  1. Samiea

    Samiea New Member

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    This is about a 2007 Toyota Prius Gen 2.

    I woke up yesterday morning and turned on my car It turned on just fine I changed my mind and then turned it off a few minutes later I decided I was going to actually had to work and turned back on my car, this is when I saw the red triangle of death show up I turned the car off knowing this was not going to be a good day.

    Later I came out diagnosing the problem and then put it back together and reset the code. All of the battery cells were showing with in half of volts of each other. I reset the code and drove home just fine.

    This morning I headed to work got to work just fine. This evening when I turned it back on I had the red triangle again I ran the code and got the bad battery code. I hooked up my OBD2 with torque pro on it all and the battery voltages are showing just fine but I noticed it would not hold a charge. The car was not accelerating right and behaving poorly the battery will not charge.I reset the code again it has not thrown it yet and I have cycled my car on and off three times

    What is wrong with my car?
     

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  2. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    You can get away w/ clear codes for a short time, but the code(s) will return, once the ECUs detect the same problem is back.

    1) What Code was reported?
    2) I clear the codes and the car seems to drive normal.
    3) Damn it! Why does the code keep coming back?
    4) Car lacks power. Could it be because the HV Battery is unable to supply the energy needed to the electric motor, to provide the needed power? The gas engine by itself can NOT supply the needed power because the Prius was designed to have BOTH gas engine and electric motor, for the vehicle to function properly. Improperly function HV Battery = inability for electric motor to provide the necessary power = incorrectly functioning Prius.
    5) If the HV Battery is original for this car, it is 12+years old. A good run.
    6) BTW, nothing lasts forever.
     
    #2 exstudent, Jul 3, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2019
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  3. Samiea

    Samiea New Member

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    Wow thanks I love condescending assholes!!

    If it was the battery one cell would show a lesser. This is not the case (refer to photos)
     
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    welcome!

    how many miles on her? have you tested the 12v? could be some mild corrosion on the buss bars
     
  5. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Not necessarily.
     
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  6. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    Me too! Helps to keep one's wit sharp.

    Let's not forget, You diagnosed the battery and state "HV Battery's fine".

    You clearly know better than the designers who designed the car, and ECUs they programmed, that are telling you otherwise.

    1) Try stating what the code(s) is/are.
    2) Spend $20 to access the factory manual at Toyota TIS.
     
    #6 exstudent, Jul 3, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2019
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  7. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    You really feel like helping the OP when the second post he ever made here was calling you an A-hole?

    Plus like you said this person is already convinced it’s not the battery, although the photo says POA80
     
    #7 Skibob, Jul 3, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2019
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  8. Samiea

    Samiea New Member

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    This was what I originally replied to before he changed it I am really not that guy
     

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  9. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    You mistake me for some who gives a damn.
    I am not dependant on you, OP, or anyone else for that matter for my house, rental, job, and savings. PC is infotainment.

    Back to task:
    Right tools make all the difference.

    OP is using Scanguage. Another toy like all the Bluetooth OBD2 code readers than can read SOME, NOT ALL Codes.

    OP should acquire Techstream and the factory service manual. My money is on other codes beyond P0A80, which OP's toy is unable to read.
     
    #9 exstudent, Jul 3, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2019
  10. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    That’s the code in his second photo. And how did a newbie post photos on his first ever post?
     
  11. Samiea

    Samiea New Member

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    Please people your not helping your turning this into some sort of hate thread
     
  12. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    Sometimes you can paste an image into the text body. Sometimes you can't and have to upload. A weird idosyncracy.

    I make the assumption that OP's Scanguage is unable to read ALL codes. You are making the assumption that Scanguage can read ALL codes. Until OP gets the car to the dealer or another shop using Techstream, no one will know if there are codes beyond P0A80.
     
  13. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    You remain convinced ScanGauge is reporting ALL codes; it can't, communicated in post#9.

    ScanGauge and all other OBD2 readers that are not Techstream based, are unable to read ALL codes. This is a well know fact.
    Techstream is the OFFICIAL diagnostic and maintenance software written for Toyota/Lexus, and used at all Toyota/Lexus dealership!

    There are non-Techstream based commercial grade OBD2 readers that tradespeople use and pay a lot for (>$1000) for such equipment. This equipment would likely be just as capable as Techstream.

    You have three options:
    1) Dealer to get codes read. $100+ cost.
    2) Non-dealer that uses Techstream or commercial grade reader that can read ALL Prius codes. Cost unknown.
    3) Get Techstream yourself; $18+ on Amazon. Easiest to install on an obsolete Windows 32bit OS (XP, Vista, 7); network and ask people for IT contacts to donate obsolete laptops laying around collecting dust; cost $zero.
     
  14. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    is it the original battery? has it ever been repaired?
     
  15. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    The main reason you're not seeing a problem with your voltages is (and this is just my opinion) that the engine is running and charging the battery. There's no way you would have 16.7 volts per module (8.35 volts per module) unless the HV battery is currently being charged, or just recently stopped charging. You need to check the voltages after the car has sat overnight to let the module voltages settle out. The longer it sits, the easier it is to detect a weak module. OR, get the Hybrid Assistant / Reporter app and run the battery test using your AC. This will clearly show a weak block.

    And yes, the lights on your dash are the typical ones that illuminate when the battery codes out. You also need an oil change. And get rid of the scangauge. Once again, just my opinion................

    And....you asked this question...

    What is wrong with my car?

    Odds are extremely good that your battery is in the early-mid stages of failing.
     
    #15 TMR-JWAP, Jul 4, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2019
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  16. landspeed

    landspeed Active Member

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    Set the screen to record on your phone, with torque pro, then record the cell voltages during acceleration. They will all drop voltage under load, but one or more may drop more than the rest.

    Also, the car runs only off battery for the first 51 seconds. If you warm it up for that time before driving, it dramatically reduces strain on the battery.

    TechStream will give the info you need. But the OBD 2 readers can give useful info if you record that phone screen while driving etc, to see how the battery responds to rapid charging and discharging.
     
  17. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    Comical.

    Moral of the story, if:
    1) you were NOT a key design team member of the Prius,
    2) do NOT truly know what you'd are doing,
    3) do NOT possess Patrick Wong level of Prius knowledge (I still believe he was on the design team)​

    You are NOT allowed to second guess the ECUs.

    The very definition of oxymoron (see Meriam):
    "HV Battery's fine but acting like not!!!"​
     
    #17 exstudent, Jul 5, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2019
  18. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    That is true that was initially posted, but not present. Like the modern political melodrama of today, fake news, statements/positions change every milisecond, edited for clarity.

    Your's remains as is. It's all good. Just admit it
     
    #18 exstudent, Jul 5, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2019
  19. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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  20. landspeed

    landspeed Active Member

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    Often (not always), a 'bad' cell ends up being a 'very low capacity' cell. Sometimes it is a 'dead short', in which case the whole block would be 1.2volts below the rest of them. However, if it is a 'very low capacity' cell, it will have a normal voltage (1-1.2 volts), at rest, but will charge up quickly and go higher than all the others during a forced charge, but will also drop well below all the others under load. The TorquePro app and a cheap USB dongle can help here. If the load test (acceleration in a safe place with no risk to others etc) is normal, that points to the need to get TechStream and a cheap laptop that can run 32-bit windows. In the longer term, if you want to keep this car running, you should get TechStream. I don't have it yet, but mainly because I haven't got around to it - I know it is the best tool for more advanced diagnostics.

    Would be keen to see results of the load test, and I'm sure we can offer more advice after that!
     
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