HV power battery conumdrum

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Barry CLEMENTS, Nov 25, 2020.

  1. Barry CLEMENTS

    Barry CLEMENTS Junior Member

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    I have a single code of P0ADC-226 with all the warning lights and I fear the ECU/cable may have fried themselves together. because I can't seem to remove that cable from the ECU. But.....

    A little background. Had a bad module showing up on Techstream/Dr Prius at position 13 with severely reduced ICE power and all lights glowing. This is a reconditioned battery at about 41K miles and 2 years old in sunny San Diego. Took it for a Dr Prius road test to test for battery life and on the way home I heard a loud pop from the battery area and the voltage from that module dropped from High 13s to 3s. I was able to limp home with electric ozone smelling smoke in the car..
    No fire. The next morning i was still able to get the car to move to position it for the coming work.. so,, yes, it still started and without the smelly smoke. Opened up the traction battery and found one of the #13 modules had blown its top and the acid damaged the adjacent #12 module. So I replaced the 4 modules in 12 and 13 and strapped it into the car and the warning lights all came on but the car would not start...attempts to put in Drive went to neutral with the codes p0ae0 and p0afa. Yes, HV battery was bolted to chassis.. So I questioned my wiring installation, dug in and made sure all connectors were clean and tight and did not see anything suspicious then put the reassembled gear back into the car. Bolted it in place, like before and same no start but now with a new code of p0adc-226. The other codes vanished
    During that 10 days or so it took me to order parts and get around to the fix, my 2 year old aux battery went from barely acceptable to failing at 11.8 V at rest and 10.4 when powered. I attempted to jump with truck and let it charge for 30 minutes which got it up to 13V powered an 12.1 V resting but car would still not start. After charging vehicle was removed from the circuit, the charge was slightly better, but still in failed battery territory. Have it on a trickle now. We'll see just how bad it is, but I am still concerned about being unable to remove the cable from the ECU. And because I can't remove the cable, I can't get at the bolts to remove the ECU. Hoping a new or newly charged auxiliary battery starts it up but I think there may be an ECU and cable that needs replacing. Wutya think?
     
  2. jzchen

    jzchen Senior Member

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    What does "powered" mean? Sounds like a DC-DC converter (aka alternator) issue if I interpreted correctly 10.4 V vehicle in READY?

    moto g(7) power ?
     
  3. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    P0ADC....isn't that code for one of the main contactors not functioning properly? If so, would be prudent to verify all the electrical plugs are fully inserted. Perhaps the small harness that connects the main relays has an issue.

    As for the wire plug going into the ECU, I've had them be corroded on the pins to the point they were bonded and it took significant mechanical pull to get it disengaged. If the same is true for yours, plan on purchasing a new wireframe#2 and ecu, as they'll be damaged.
     
  4. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    The battery ECU is held in by two 8mm bolts and one 10mm nut. The bolts are out in the open and easy to remove. The 10mm nut is next to and below the HV wire harness. It is possible to slip a socket past the wires and remove this nut. The wire harness is clipped in place near the orange plug. This clip has to be released before the wire harness plug can be removed from the battery ECU.

    The safe and easy way to remove the battery ECU is to first disconnect and remove the battery modules.
     
  5. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    lesson learned in regard to flogging a weak pack with dr prius health check?
    It was probably just bad luck, but stuff like that happens and a venting cell really sucks.
    How did the bus bars look? And did you try to match similar modules when you reassembled?

    First thing I did when my civic pack threw the code of death (many years ago) was put in a new 12 volt.
    a couple thoughts from the cheap seats.
     
  6. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    yes what he said... Used ECUs used to be $50 on ebay and elsewhere but this is such a common problem they're now $100...
     
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