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Hybrid Automotive Charger/Discharger before & after comparison data

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by jeff652, Dec 12, 2014.

  1. jeff652

    jeff652 Senior Member

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    [​IMG]

    I am pleased to share a common example of the benefits that our Hybrid Automotive charger & discharger systems provide to our customers. The above graph is a before and after data comparison of a 2005 Prius with 140,000 miles on its original hybrid battery. The before graph shows the 4.6Ah usable capacity of the pack. Before using our grid charger and simple discharger the car exhibited the common weakening battery symptoms: decreasing MPGs, re-calibrations, and diminished EV mode. After performing two deep cycles of the battery pack, usable capacity increased to 5.5Ah, a 19% increase.

    The above test was performed by first logging the packs performance 'as is' after being daily driven over 50 miles per day five days a week. The grid charger & simple discharger were used to perform the pack refresh by charging for 22 hours to rebalance the pack cells, then discharging to 80V, charging again to peak voltage, discharging again to 30V, and finally charging back to peak voltage.

    The post test was performed using the same load and data logging time intervals. You can easily see increased capacity and voltage levels throughout the usable range of the battery pack. The owner of the vehicle is reporting increased EV mode frequency, better MPGs & performance, and excessive smiles. We get this feedback from our customers all the time. I'm happy to be able to share a quantifiable example of the benefits of using our products and what they can do when used as preventative maintenance [​IMG]
     

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  2. Fixitorlistit

    Fixitorlistit Junior Member

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  3. Fixitorlistit

    Fixitorlistit Junior Member

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    Did you follow your usual discharge plan, Jeff? By that I mean did you use 200w, then 120w, then 60w bulbs while dropping to 204V, then 201V, then 196V, etc.? I'm doing that exactly RIGHT NOW and my voltage is pretty much following the "before" curve.
     
  4. jeff652

    jeff652 Senior Member

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    Awesome. Hope you get the same positive results this car did! I am personally using a 200W, 60W, and 25W bulbs only to make the process easier.
    Here is a current reference for the three I use:
    A 200W bulb is ~155A load (as seen in the above chart)
    A 60W bulb is ~0.5A load
    A 15W bulb is ~0.1A load
     
  5. Fixitorlistit

    Fixitorlistit Junior Member

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    I'm asking because it looks like you kept higher wattage bulbs in at the end of the discharge. The voltage on the "before" curve dropped from 195 V to 175V in about 20 minutes. Normally, I think you would have been using 40w bulbs starting at 196V to drop the voltage at a slower rate.
     
  6. jeff652

    jeff652 Senior Member

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    Yes, good point. Normally you don't want to do what I did. I did it on purpose for the purpose of the data logging test, to show what happens when the pack is "empty". You should step down the load sooner when doing a deep discharge of your own pack.
     
  7. DMC-5180

    DMC-5180 Active Member

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    Interesting information. Just by coincidence, I have a 2005 w/ 149k on it. This past 7 months of ownership has been interesting from a mileage stand point. The best single tank average I experienced was on 5/23/14 292 highway miles with 51 mpg avg. I took a photo of display for my personal records. That only happened one time. While I did get 47-49 mpg on several trips ( same route) I have not achieved the 51 avg since. The past few months have been In the 41-44 range. The worst was 38 but that was in November when the upper Midwest was experiencing mid January temperatures. I expect an avg 5 mpg loss during below freezing temps so it is not that surprising. Lately I have been experiencing city driving mileage averages below my highway averages. Again it's been cold so the demand on the vehicle systems is higher. I am wondering if there would be much gain if any by doing this procedure? The other thing I wonder is if this particular comparison chart shows a 19% increase, how does this compare to a new battery. Is it still substantially below what a new batteries performance would be or does it get it back to 95 % of new?

    For the record I put a little over 700 miles per week on my car 95% highway.
     
    #7 DMC-5180, Dec 14, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2014
  8. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    Jeff,
    Thanks for sharing this.
    Graphs are always so much more interesting than me just blathering on about this kind of stuff.

    Nice to see the data graphically.
     
  9. jeff652

    jeff652 Senior Member

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    The winter cold does hurt MPGs. We are going to be fitting a 2014 Prius for our new 3rd generation product before the end of the year and I am hoping to have it long enough to perform the same test. The amount of improvement does depend entire on the battery pack itself. The sooner one starts using a grid charger, the more benefit it will deliver. Once a hard failure occurs, even a grid charger will not help that module, it will have to be replaced. Our charger products work best on a Prius as preventative maintenance - before a failure occurs. :)
     
  10. Chba

    Chba Junior Member

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    i have some technical questions for you regarding the "Manual light Bulb Discharger".


    1- It is difficult in my country to find "400w incandescent lights bulbs" because of the regulations, it is forbidden on the market.

    I finally got two "incandescent lights bulbs of 300w-230v and e27 base" here is attached the picture.

    Tell me can I use it to discharge the battery?

    Does your device use e27 or e40 scew base?


    2- the second question concerns the reconditioning procedure.

    First if I have followed your instructions in your website correctly, I must first charge the battery up to the stabilization voltage of 240V. And balance it for 4 additional hours.

    Then, I have to connect the "manual light bulb discharger" then screw in the two 300w-220v bulbs. I have to wait for the first bulb change threshold (196 volts) to replace with a 150w-220v power bulb. Finally, when I reach the voltage of 134 volts, I unscrew the bulbs and disconnect the "manual light bulb dicharger". This is the first cycle. I do the same for the second and third cycle respectively with the termination voltages of 84V and 17V. By taking care to charge and balance the battery between cycles.

    Never connect or disconnect the harness whit the load.

    This is what I think I understand. Tell me if i"m wrong?


    Now my question is: how to unscrew the bulbs to change them without burning hands? in other words how to proceed to replace them?


    3- I have an open car park, for safety reasons can I roll up the windows during the charge and discharge at night, without harming the battery?

    Excuse my english.


    Best regards


    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  11. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    What is 'your country' specifically? Your profile says New York, but I suspect you live elsewhere and not in the US of A? You could help us to help you by updating your user profile to the correct details.
    E27, I believe.
    No, at least I wouldn't. You will blow the inline fuse too easily due to the high inrush current on those bulbs and will end up having to open up the battery to replace the blown fuse. (Don't ask me how I know!)
    No, you should be using 200w-110v bulbs and 150w-110v bulbs respectively.

    If you can only purchase 220V bulbs because your country's power system is 220V/50Htz then you need to wire the bulb holders differently. If you are to use 220V rated bulbs the better way is to wire 6 bulb holders in parallel and then you can use any combination of 50W and 100W bulbs to make 50W (1x 50W), 150W (1x 50W + 1x 100W), or 400W (4x 100W) as required. Switching the bulbs on one at a time also helps manage the inrush current.