hydrolock

well got part of the driveshaft out .. but not the full thing like the manual suggests-- and was trying to do the RH sid right , even tried a rope but didnt make it ..

 

go t the wiring harness discon from the ECM's and pulled through the firewall and out into the engine room for removal with the engine and transferr to the replacement ..

 

disassembled the water blown motor by removing the 1st or 2nd oil pan ( both ) -- to see the whole crank .... .... low and behold, the 3rd CR was bent like a tsick of hot butter and the 4th CR had a clean break.

put the tranny/hybrid system (that weighs at least 2x the ICE) onto the ICE and will be ready to re-insert -- the tripod came out of one of the driveshaft couplings and im not sure if i need special oil or snap ring or just shove the thing together nad it'll be hind..

 

you can see the tripod , a 3 bearing universal joint in the top box ... http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=508415

2011 TOYOTA PRIUS Parts - DiscountToyotaParts

 

i had been posting some pics in email thinking it was forum --- sorry -- it can be confusing !!

 

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  we didnt have the tie rod removal tool and u cant just stick a ball joint remover in there or youll destroy the rubber boot -- so we heavily modified a 2 finger wheel puller and used a C-clamp to break the fit of the graduated tie rod -- removed the bolt and nuts on the suspension arm sub .. it goes down and then the splined drive shaft comes out with relative ease​
  chronon, Apr 16, 2013 Report
• the 2 exhaust bolts come out with liberal application of a 1/2" electric impact rench, since they are 2 compression springs i would hate to have to do them with a ratchet-- my question is the oxygen sensor -- i see that i can remove a nut/bolt that it goes into a resonator or CAT and would rather do that than dive into the dash board and pull a connector from the interior ..​
  chronon, Apr 16, 2013 Report
• took over an hour to get the wireharness out of the dash area --- finally got the engine/tranny removed today -- what abitch -- did a kind of half nice person removal without taking the cross member out all the way , without removing the driveshaft all the way , etc -- had one hose pop off (one of the hidden heater hoses that was left connected ) - not a big deal .. what a bitch of a heavy tranny / motor combo ... pulled it out the driver side ... now all the fun of transferring the intact wire harness over to the replacement engine and seperating the tranny to rejoin with the replacement engine ( i think i should get another dolly instead of using the floor jack under it to pull it out, that also was a sliding fail) --- pics to come ...​
  chronon, Apr 18, 2013 Report
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  engine and tranny out --- not an affair for the faint --- not easily accomplished ...​
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    chronon, Apr 18, 2013 Report
• both engines on tables - no cherry picker so used tractor bucket for lifting​

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yesterday put the radiator and a/c compressor in - - more hoses and so forth transferred onto replacement engine and harness connections made - the problem with steering shaft going back was solved but to really get in there the seat was removed becoause it is such a tight area . ready to put the invertor/convertor back on but finding a few plugs on the harness that we dont know where they go !! one in the bunch of three does go to the exhaust sensor forward most with 4 pins.

 

it was the shift controller - a 10 pin connector that goes way in the back of the tranny - it must go on before the invertor placetd on top -- i even snaked the connector to the back with the convertor on but it is so tightly routed that there is no slack forgiveness farfor any screwup .. got fluids in , charged bat, plugged in HV then 12v and saw the dash lights for door open light up , woo hoo -- however, pushing the start button twice (no break) gives an engine or a/c fan staying on -- left the air filter off initially by mistacke so wonder if the MAF sensor had something to do with it or some fluid level not happy yet -- still did it with more fluid top off and MAF connected -- dindt have my scan guage to get the engine code --

 

there is a lift bolt right on the tranny that is for a lift point -- it is a real pain aligning it back when bringing it up to it -- the manual makes no mention of it -- so u usually see these things after the fact with anger .. like much of the manual -- things not mention OR extraneous, unnecassary and verbatim repetitious steps -- no wonder why its 4000 pages !!!

 

today it ran .. i had left off 3 of the ECU connectors .. or they were placed on but not fully inserted onto the connector .. this was throwing the U0235 comx error i found out today when i brought my scanguage .--- after that i was able to hear it turn over and someone observed spark with the plugs reston on the valve cover .. then we inserted the plugs and coil packs and .. it started up with much smoke from some oil/wd40 that had gotten in there to keep lub the plug threads (likely 1st time they were out) -- and got cleaner the more i i ran it after the on off cycles .. got SOC up to over 50% .. need to get the toy red dye coolant .. and the ATFWS tranny fluid to .. and ill get some good mobil 1 synth and a new engine oil filter in there too when i get the other coolants replaced .. --- this is a big load off of wondering' is it going to run' ?~!?!?!?

 

special thanks to Paul in CO for all the emails, pChat, and phone support
!!!!!!!

 

now that i want to get toyota coolant ... WHAT !!?!!?!?? $31 for gallon ~!?!?!?!? Toyota Genuine Fluid 00272-SLLC2 Long Life Coolant - 1 Gallon : Amazon.com : Automotive