Idle problems post maintenance (PCV, plugs, throttle body cleaning)

Nice maintenance.

So long as you did not foul the MAF with whatever you used to clean the throttle plate, I would expect the issues to resolve themselves pretty soon. My habit is to take the MAF out of its housing and clean it by putting it in a baggy with IsoProp and then swirling the liquid through the MAF for a minute. I let the MAF dry completely before I reinstall.

 

What did you clean MAF sensor with? I've heard regular carb cleaner will leave residue, you need MAF cleaner. Or isopropanol or ethanol in a pinch. Also, cleaning throttle body you should spray moderate amount of carb cleaner on cloth, not direct into throat.

 

My 2006 has started doing what you're describing and I haven't done any recent maintenance to it. I just notice my HV battery seems weaker than normal. It could very well be temperature related as it's been 90+ degrees here for about a month now.

 

I never ever do any maintenance before long trips (if the car is in normal condition, of coarse). Check oil, tire pressure, fluids, and then go.
Too many things can go wrong.

- Alex

 

how soon does your ice normally shut down?

 

my engine keeps running until it's fully warmed up, and of course, that depends on ambient temp.

 

I think you have hit the nail on the head.

 

Mine is doing the same thing as OP after using carb and throttle cleaner spray. I have the puddle inside the intake too. Guess I'll grab some MAF cleaner only and see if that helps. Did yours eventually go away?

 

As Sagebrush says, the problem should go away after the engine relearns your "new carbonless state."

I'll temper my statement with an example and a bit of a question. I had a problem with my non-hybrid vehicle after cleaning, the idle was terrible, worse than before I did the cleaning and the only reason I did the cleaning was because of the horrible idle.

I drove around for a couple of hours, no improvement, lived with it for a week or so, then, and I don't recall where this idea came from, I realized that driving was not idling and car was not going to quickly "learn" to idle if I was driving.

So, I started it in the driveway and let it idle for IIRC 30-45 minutes, something like that, and problem was solved.

Only issue, as far as I know, is that with the PRIUS, there is no way to force the ICE to idle for 30 minutes....maybe some of the pros here can discuss that?

 

This is not necessary. If you want the engine ECU to reset, just disconnect the 12V battery for a few minutes, then reconnect. The ECU will do what it needs to do to develop and store new settings.

 

Put the car in Inspection mode and engine will run continuously at idle till you shut it off.

Youtube: Prius Inspection Mode. Its a series of button pushes that forces the engine on. It should idle smoothly till u turn it off. Sit there and listen how the engine behaves while watching it. If it won't idle smoothly or hiccups or wanders around after its warmed up you have an issue. Be aware this a very noisey engine top end wise. Alot less noisy with high quality 10-30 instead of the 5-20 weight everyone runs.

You did good on the maintenance but if you really want to make the car happy and see instant mileage improvement change the Inverter fluid. Its ridiculously easy and cheap and I do it every time I change the trans fluid every 35k miles. The Inverter fluid takes the most beating in a Prius.
Dump it below next bolt over from the Trans fluid dump bolt. Fill it back up. Run plastic hose from bleed petcock to reservoir. Open bleeder.
Done. Happy car. Everytime I do it zi get instant mileage bump. Inverter is heart & soul of this car.

Oh and I do the AC ECoil flush too since I got the car jacked up so high for the trans dump. Its rare I get the car up that high so I take advantage of it. I use Kool- It from Amazon.com. Makes the interior smell really pleasant.

I use Red Line Water Wetter additive too in the Inverter fluid. Car really likes it. Drops the Inverter temp a little and excellent anti corrosion. Since I'm in Florida I also bypassed the coolant line to the TB too. TB now runs about 95F instead of the 190F. Really extends the motor life and the car runs very peppy.

8 years later car still runs like a scalded cat.

 

Unplugged the battery for over 10 minutes and instantly better. Decided to add seafoam to clean any crud out by adding to to the air hoses connected to the throttle body. Poured rubbing alchol in the MAF sensor and shook to clean. Engine died a few times trying to figure out which tube it likes best. Got a check engine light. Let it sit over night and smoke came out the exhaust . CEL came off with in the first hour of driving. MPG increased!!! Might get real MAF cleaner spray next oil change.

 

Yeah hopefully straight isopropyl alcohol: rubbing alchohol may have added oils.

If it says 99% it's a safe bet it's just alcohol. But everywhere has MAF sensor cleaner, probably right next to SeaFoam, lol.

Up here I see Canadian Tire has it.