Installed oil catch can without removing intake manifold

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Main Forum' started by ColoPriusV, May 16, 2020.

  1. ColoPriusV

    ColoPriusV Junior Member

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    2012 Prius v wagon
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    Five
    In case some are timid about removing their entire intake manifold to install an oil catch can (OCC), i just installed a Ruien catch can in my 2012 Prius V with 32K miles without removing the intake manifold. After watching the excellent NutzaboutBolts OCC installation video, i had a good idea where to locate the PVC hose under the manifold with just the air filter and intake duct work removed, and prepared all the necessary hoses and connectors for installation. (A couple of notes about the Ruien OCC - I added an o-ring to the dip stick, and found a more robust o-ring to replace the skinny o-ring that seals the upper/bottom sections of the main can.)

    Only needed to remove a total of six 10mm bolts securing the air filter box and intake duct work, and unclip 2 or 3 electrical connections. Then reached underneath the manifold, squeezed the clips securing the PVC hose with my hand (no tool was needed), and twisted PVC hose ends off. Fished a 4 foot section of 3/8" fuel hose through the maze of hoses from the catch can to the PVC nipple and secured with the old clip just using my hands and no tools. Had already prepared the short 3/4" hose with the brass adapter and 1/2" hose, so fished that next through the maze of hoses and secured it to the bottom-front side of the intake manifold with a stainless screw clamp.

    One plus about leaving the intake manifold on is that you can easily visualize the best path to route the hoses to the OCC with the fewest twists and turns. Trimmed and attached the hoses at the oil catch can, reassembled the air filter box and duct work and the job was done. It took a little over hour, including a couple of family interruptions.

    Again, kudos to NutzAboutBolts for his excellent instructions - I wouldn't have attempted this without watching his very thorough video first.
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    #1 ColoPriusV, May 16, 2020
    Last edited: May 16, 2020
  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Underfoot

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    Only thing: one goal of an oil catch can is to avoid (or at least reduce) goop accumulating in the intake manifold. At 32K it won't be bad, but still:

    I'd recommend taking it off, cleaning it. Remove the MAP sensor (around 3 oclock, just below throttle body), clean it separately with a shot of MAF Sensor cleaner. The IM is relatively easy to clean, just a little work with brushes and brake cleaner will do it. Don't miss the small diameter EGR passageways, one per port. If you google "stainless steel drinking straw cleaning brush", you'll find a brush just the right diameter for that chore.

    You don't need to disconnect the coolant hoses on the throttle body btw, just unbolt the throttle body, lift it off, tie it to the inverter cables or something. The hoses have enough slack. Clean the throttle body throat and blade with a cloth dampened with carb cleaner while you're at it.
     
    #2 Mendel Leisk, May 16, 2020
    Last edited: May 16, 2020
    ColoPriusV likes this.
  3. ColoPriusV

    ColoPriusV Junior Member

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    Five
    With less than 32K on the odometer (and oil changes every 3500 miles over the past 8 years) i figured there wasn't much gunk accumulated in the intake manifold. But I do plan to disassemble and clean the manifold and clean inspect the EGR tube in the next 15K miles.
     
  4. P. Chan

    P. Chan Junior Member

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    Just cleaned entire egr system and intake manifold and installed occ in my 2012 with 87k miles. Egr pipe, cooler partially plugged and really needed cleaning. Intake manifold and 4 ports not as bad. Significant oil underneath throttle body like everyone else. 5 k oil changes since new with oil level always at the full level.
    From now on, will only fill to half full to help decrease this. Placed my catch can over by the water pump. I do have to removed air ducts to clean it. The bottom of the can sure unscrews hard. Where did you source your o rings?
     
  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Underfoot

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    See if you can get their specs, ID, OD, cross-section diameter and material spec. Then check local automotive specialty shops.

    I did this with my Moroso 85474, the main o-ring between top and bottom halves; had to buy about 10 to make it worth their while. Wasn’t much.

    Manufacturer recommended a thin application of anti-seize compound whenever the two halves are separated, doubly so if cleaned.
     
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