Intake Manifold and EGR Cleaning/Replacement - How hard is it really?

The only significant difference in 3rd gens (2010-2015) was Toyota FINALY ditching the low-friction piston rings, partway through 2014 model year (the earlier rings have proven prone to oil consumption).

there were revisions to the EGR valve, and the intake manifold (apparently EGR passage revisions), but I’m sceptical they accomplished anything.

I’ve got a 10, have cleaned the EGR twice now. The car has about 65k miles, we purchased new in 2010.

 

Since you bought the parts I would install them after I verified they were oem. However I would keep the old parts just in case.

I would definitely change the oil every 5k miles and change the engine coolant every 30k. Those are the things that have worked for me on a 340,000 mile v.

I proactively changed the egr valve with the redesigned version and had the latest ecm software updated. In Europe there was an October 2014 recommendation to update the ecm to extend head gasket life. This was the only Toyota recommendation specially addressing head gasket fails and was released to Europe only. However it is assumed the US code, which was updated many times, would have included any reliability improvements.

Your car has had the inverter issue resolved which is a good thing. My inverter failed early as well without warning. I have changed the hv battery with oem and the brake booster which had a special extended warranty, now expired.

 

With 165k miles, if the water pump's never been changed, it's living on borrowed time.

Amayama will have one at my door for ~$163 CDN, all-in, and so far never any extras, other than price and shipping. No tax, duty. Might be different now, with current US situation. Anyway:

They'll also have the thermostat, worth replacing as well.

If you don't know the car's history, sure. They were supposed to be changed (per Toyota) at 120k miles or 12 years (150/12 in CARB States).

With 165k miles I would definitely replace all the pliable gaskets interfacing with the intake manifold; they're not expensive. My Amayama invoice, in 2022:

 

You will know the bottom line, before committing. For me in Canada it's definitely cheaper, to ship from them (either from Japan or UAE), versus from the States, about 50 km's to the south of us.

 

These are the 3 pliable gaskets involved, all at the intake manifold, copy/pasted from my invoice:

#1: Toyota 17177-37030 - GASKET, INTAKE MANIFOLD TO HEAD, NO.1
#2: Toyota 22271-37010 - GASKET, THROTTLE BODY
#3: Toyota 25628-28010 - GASKET, EGR INLET



I'm not sure of your part no's, some may be supersessions, not sure. Anyway, those are the 3 worth changing.

Everything else is steel, in my opinion quite durable.

There is one gotcha with those steel gaskets, they're all kinda dimpled in, so you can place them concave or convex. I pulled mine off the first time without noting, but later watched a youtube, a mechanic who very carefully removed them (for first time), and noted the direction of the dimples. I made a sketch (attached).

In the attached pdf, the mention of "applying tape" is NOT required, IF you remove the cooler lower bracket nut AND stud, then you don't need to remove the studs at the cooler connection to exhaust manifold, you're able to just pull the cooler straight forward, since all the lateral positioned studs have been removed. Besides saving the hassle of backing out those two studs, they will retain the gasket there, which is easy to miss, drops down, hard to recover. Also facilitates reinstall, just hang the gasket on the studs.

 

Ahah, a supersession.

There's one gotcha with the gasket at throttle body, there's a plain version (the part no I posted is that one), and there's also one with an extra mesh spanning the opening. Priuschat member @Merv Himself published a youtube on EGR cleaning, had one of the mesh style, found it didn't fit, just reused the existing.

 

The gasket in the bag with red tape looks to be for the EGR pipe to intake manifold connection.

 

Yes you have oem and it's the kit version with gaskets built for the tsb at 1/3 off the valve alone.

There are at least seven visible differences disregarding packaging (which often is counterfeited as well).


Two take a good eye to detect.

 

Two hard ones remain but you did point out the bottom right screw head and the two bottom arrow items I was not counting.

 

looks like the ends of the stud threads are different

 

and there's something shiny on the bottom of the round black part

 

Correct. Plus the black cable receptacle is at an angle on the new oem.

Final exam
Oem or counterfeit?