Intake Manifold and EGR Cleaning/Replacement - How hard is it really?

Options, as needed: your existing EGR valve could be fine. Not that hard to clean either. The cooler is tougher to clean but doable as well, if it comes to that.

 

The most expedient oil catch can connection is to cut the existing PCV hose at the middle, push on 3/8” brass barb splicers (PEX connectors work as well, and are more easily removable as needed), push 3/8” ID fuel line (SAE-J30R7 or …R6), run those to your oil catch can inlets and outlets.

To return the system to stock, a replacement hose is about $10 USD, part no: 12261-37060. It’s item 12661 here.

I went “upmarket” some on my OCC, have dual Moroso 85474 Air/Oil separators. They’re pricey though, and getting more so.

Lots do mount by the drivers headlight; I opted for below the intake manifold, on a bracket atop lower cross beam (front jacking point beam. They’re bottom draining, most practical access during oil change:

 

Looks like I’ve reiterated what’s mostly covered here.

 

The comparison I keep wanting to see is how the revised Toyota valve compares inside to the original Toyota valve.

So far, everybody who has bought one of the revised ones has been like, "not me, I'm not opening the cover on this valve I just bought!".

 

I tried one once and it took a no code original egr to a P0401. It would stick open right out of the box. I did not take it apart to avoid trouble returning it. It went back and the updated Toyota version went in.

From an Amazon review:

 

Yeah, that's the inside of a cheap knockoff. We've seen those before.

There is a genuine Toyota-issued update to the original Toyota EGR valve. We know it's physically a bit larger and the wire harness needs to be untaped a little for the plug to reach.

That's the one I'd be interest in seeing inside pictures of.