Is a Balky Rear Liftgate Hatch Actuator Problem Common?

My 2007 for as long as I've had it has had an intermittent issue with the rear hatch not opening with the outside push button. I previously noted in another post what I did to make the manual release more convenient with a lanyard and noticed the paracord solution as well. Today I decided to try and figure out what the reason is for the need to do the manual release anyway.

I've previously removed, cleaned and reinstalled the disintegrating push button with a new rubber cover.

Sometimes even when the normal button outside press method is used, there always for as long as I've owned the car seems to be a slight delay in opening the hatch after button push. Sometimes two presses are needed. I always thought that this was normal. Is it?

Anyway, when I watch the actuator from inside the car while someone else is attempting to open it from the outside, I notice that it often does not operate smoothly. There is a point at which the motion stops as the locking mechanism rotates.

The locking bar seems to get stuck about midway through its unlock arc of travel. Sometimes it eventually continues on and sometimes it does not, then it needs a manual release. The manual release does not require a lot of pressure.

The latch mechanism does not look particularly dirty or gummed up so I'm wondering if any of you folks know why the movement is not smooth. Do these actuators just fail after 15 years? It appears to be a sealed unit that would preclude disassembly, cleaning and lubrication.

Finally if needed, replacing it looks pretty easy. If I have to get a new one, would Doorman or another brand be a good choice? The Toyota part is as usual expensive and I figure a used OEM one may have the same issue as I am having as it would be as old. The car is 15 years old and so I'm not looking for something to last another fifteen years anyway.

 

Do you ever lubricate it? If so, with what?

 

In my experience that is the case if the doors are not unlocked already.
This is a different issue here. There is a hesitancy in the travel of this actuator in its arc of travel. Will look for a new used one to replace it with a used one. Three bolts and a plug. New OEM is $200+. Apparently no aftermarket options exist which is strange given that they have aftermarket door lock, just not liftgate actuators. As @Tombukt2 noted, above, the motors seem to go out.

 

So I went to a pick and pull lot yesterday as @Tombukt2 recommended to see if they had any used actuators. Had a bit of a drive but found a front end damaged 2006 Prius that had one.

The best part was that the actuator on the 2006 had obviously been replaced recently with a new OEM! The thing looked like it just came from the factory except this one wasn’t $200 to $300.

Five minutes of work and $10 later and I’m back in business.
Works like a dream. No more hesitation when unlocking. The old one never, ever worked this well.

Also while I was there, I took the combination meter that I’ll replace the capacitor on and keep in inventory. Was $13. Best way to learn how to get to it is on a car that can’t be harmed. YouTube in one hand and tools in the other.

Need to research reprogramming methods if I eventually swap it.

 

Yep, you are correct, it is required just to put in VIN and ODO reading. Neither of which is really needed. In many states the ODO reading no longer is required to be disclosed on older cars. Anyone buying my car will definitely be past 200k or 250k hopefully anyway

 

Supposedly the likely worn out motor as @Tombukt2 referred to on the actuator can be replaced with a new 20mm flat shaft motor that costs about $5 or so on eBay or Amazon. I’m going to try taking my old one apart, cleaning it and replacing the motor when I get a chance. That way I’ll have a spare so that in fifteen more years I can swap it. Also according to Murthy’s Law, so long as I have a spare, it’s likely I’ll never need one.