Is she dead or is she sleeping?

anywho, i'd say your best bet is to get dr prius app, find the bad cells, replace them and rebalance

 

No.

Yes.

It might still be usable.

Yes, you can use a commercial grid charger, a hobby charger (takes time) or a power supply.

Which version of winblows are you using?

 

What happens? Nothing, no sound, nada? Or is trying to start (ICE is being spun but never runs)? If it's the former, I suspect the used HV battery is below operating voltage (aka dead). Old batts don't like sitting unused and especially not in the heat.

Reading the codes will tell the tale.

GOOD LUCK!

 

She's just sleeping.

This is this first thing to fix. Once this problem is resolved the engine will start and then you can determine the state of the HV battery. In addition to Dr Prius download Torque, Hybrid Assistant, and Hybrid Reporter apps.

To fix the P-Lock warning follow this short thread.

P Lock C2310 Fix Fixed Solved Solution | PriusChat

 

i don't, that screen shot doesn't look right. i would wait until the lights come on again and run dr. prius. spend some time learning how it works, i think it will pay off.

 

Opening up the high voltage Prius battery is dangerous work that should only be performed by those that understand what they are doing. It's up to you to learn the needed safety measures.

The P03030 means that the voltage sensing harness on the battery has corroded to the point of breaking (snapped). The corrosion can be at the orange plug at the battery computer or at the module terminals. Your Dr Prius screen shot shows that the affected lines are the two farthest from the battery ECU.

There are 28, not 38 modules (blades) in the battery pack. A block is two modules so 14 blocks. Dr Prius shows the voltages of the four modules opposite the battery computer are not being read correctly. That's a classic pattern for a cororred orange plug at the battery computer.

Your battery might not need any reconditioning, just a battery computer and a voltage sensing harness.

There's still that P-Lock problem to sort out.

 

Welcome to PriusChat! What Dr Prius calls a "blade" is what everyone else calls a "module." Your pack contains 28 replaceable modules in all (2 per block), with 6 cells in each module, for a total of 168 cells. Individual cells are non-replaceable.

Blade voltage in Dr Prius is simply an average—total pack voltage divided by 28 blades (modules). If your first two blocks were on par with the other 12, your total pack voltage would be in the neighborhood of 210 V and Dr Prius would report a healthier blade voltage of 7.5 V.

You definitely need to be looking at blocks 1 & 2: modules 1 thru 4, which in your Gen 2 will be located at the end of the pack furthest from the ECU, with #1 at the very end, closest to the black air ducts on the passenger side. If you plan to try this yourself, be sure to study up on the process and procure the necessary tools and safety equipment, including high-voltage lineman gloves with leather over-gloves. There are some very good YouTube videos and a120+ page thread on this forum that cover traction battery rebuilding in great detail. Hope this helps.

-Harry

 

Whoops, I responded before seeing Strawbrad's reply from yesterday. I was very lucky when I rebuilt the pack in our 2005—harness was in great shape with no serious corrosion. I just had to replace one dead module and a couple of weak ones. This reminded me of a corrosion problem I did encounter, however, which is likely to be fairly common in Prii of similar vintage to ours.

It seems that Toyota chose a wire gauge and connector type insufficient to handle the current load on the hybrid battery cooling fan relay circuit. This eventually led to an open circuit at the connector attached to to fan mounting bracket, preventing the fan from engaging, and allowing my pack to get very warm before throwing P0A80 and P3000 codes.

I'm not suggesting that this is related to SJ4405's problem, just that it's something everyone should probably take a look at when self-servicing an older battery pack. I bypassed the corroded connections in ours with a beefier 2-wire connector that uses 16 AWG wire instead of the factory 20 AWG. Pictures attached.

-Harry