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Is there much of a difference between an '05-'06 and an '09 Prius?

Discussion in 'Newbie Forum' started by jbirdawg, May 5, 2017.

  1. fuzzy1

    fuzzy1 Senior Member

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    The 2009 has TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) by law. It wasn't mandatory in 2006, and I don't know when the Prius line added it.

    The TC (traction control), which has generated numerous complaints in winter climates, has gone through several revisions / improvements, including somewhere between 2004 and 2009. The 2010 revision is better still.
     
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  2. RobH

    RobH Senior Member

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    My 2006 has it. And I've replaced 3 out of 4 of them (1 died, 2 with new tires, 1 last man standing).
     
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  3. RobH

    RobH Senior Member

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    The 2006 with the failed battery has a bit over 123,000 miles on it. I measured the capacity of one of the poorer (but still functional) modules at about 3000 mAh. New is rated at 6500 mAh. So I figure the battery is about 1/2 new capacity. Failure occurs when one cell (6 cells/module) gets so far out of balance from the others that it self destructs.

    I've purchased a Prolong charger/discharger/tester + wiring harness for about $800. That plus an eBay salvage module for $33 and I figure I'll have another 2-3 years service. Maybe another few salvage modules if I'm unlucky.

    Battery life seems to be dependent on age, heat, charge/discharge cycles, and mileage. So if you live in a hot area or commute up/down a mountain, the life will be shorter. Cool climate used on the flat probably lasts longer. Luck of the draw on how well the modules stay balanced with age. The Prolong grid charger/discharger reduces the problem of module balance, but the total capacity is still going to go down with age/usage. A friend has a 2003 (Gen1) that still works, but his mileage is down to the low 30s. I'd say the 2003 has excellent balance, but near end-of-life capacity. I'm interested in some way to track capacity as a way to judge where the battery is in its life cycle.
     
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  4. Moving Right Along

    Moving Right Along Senior Member

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    "Comprehensive maintenance" as referred means complying with the manufacturer specified recommended maintenance schedule. You can find it online from Toyota and elsewhere. I think what the poster who said that was inferring is that the Prius tends to be a reliable car if regularly maintained and typically has few extra repairs needed.
     
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  5. jbirdawg

    jbirdawg Junior Member

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    So what is maintenance costs like on the Prius?
    I have a Honda Pilot 2004 w 221000 miles and have been careful to change the oil regularly and have only had to replace the starter on it. Still going strong.
     
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  6. Tideland Prius

    Tideland Prius Moderator of the North
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    Just FYI, Toyota changed the way they would rate cargo capacity so yes the 2010 is slightly larger (it's a touch wider between the wheel wells both at the base and at the tonneau cover level and it's also a touch taller) but not 7 cu. ft. like the numbers would suggest.

    The extra torque of the 1.8 litre helps on the highway (passing power and slightly lower rpm at cruising speed).

    The Gen 3 also had a revised traction control system that allowed some wheel spin before reducing power (vs. the Gen 2 that would just cut power the moment it detected wheel spin).

    In terms of maintenance, there's no alternator, no power steering fluid, no serpentine belt for the A/C (it's electric A/C). And on the Gen 3, there's an electric water pump so the engine has no belts/chains whatsoever. All the power is generates is going to propulsion and not running accessories.

    The brake pads will last practically the life of the car. We never changed our brake pads on our 2005 Prius. It had 153,000 miles before the hybrid battery went. (11.5 years old). We've changed the 12V battery 3 times (3rd was just a few months prior to trading it in), on our 4th set of tires, various light bulbs. Two engine coolant changes... that's about it.

    Here's a list of the changes made for the 3rd generation (2010-2015)

    • EV/ECO/PWR Modes
    • Rear Disc Brakes
    • Aerodynamic Front Wipers
    • Active Front Headrests
    • Telescopic Steering Wheel
    • 1" of travel added to driver's seat bottom adjustment
    • Height adjustable driver's seat
    • Driver's Knee Airbag
    • One-Touch (Auto Up/Down) Power Windows
    • Variable-Speed Power Rear Windows
    • Illuminated Power Window Switches
    • Touch-Sensitive SKS Locking Function
    • Programmable Automatic Door Locks (Drive-Away Function)
    • Touch Tracer
    • Peak of Roof moved back 3.9" (99mm) to increase rear headroom
    • Sculpted front seatbacks to further increase rear kneeroom
    • Nearly Flat Rear Centre Hump
    • LED taillights
    • Re-tuned suspension
    • Extended Underbody Strengthening Brace
    • Underbody Fins for Airflow Management
    • New Multi-Information Display (Eco Drive Monitor) with Consumption History
    • Hybrid System Indicator
    • Hill-Start Assist
    • XMNavTraffic on Navigation System (I don't think it works any more as Toyota no longer subscribes to XMNavTraffic)
    • Available plasmacluster ionizer (US)
    • Exhaust Heat Recirculation System (replaced coolant thermos)
    • Cooled Exhaust Gas Recirculation
    • Electric water pump
    • Beltless 1.8 litre 2ZR-FXE DOHC VVT-i inline-4 cylinder engine
    • More efficient electric A/C compressor
    • "Aero" corners (sculpted front/rear bumpers for aerodynamics)
    • Acoustic windshield
     
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  7. Moving Right Along

    Moving Right Along Senior Member

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    When I bought my car, I got the complete service history for it, since it had consistently been maintained at the same place (something to look for when you're buying a car). Part of that listed how much each service appountment cost. In its 8 years and just over 100,000 miles of history, my Prius had $1,860 of repairs and maintenance done. That works out to $232.50 a year on average. Of course, there's a big one coming up for me- at 120,000 miles, there's a really big maintenance visit that involves around $800 worth of stuff at a dealer. But for the most part, oil & filters, tires, air filters, and 12v batteries are the only things you'll have to replace multiple times unless you keep the car past 200,000 miles. Brakes, spark plugs, belts (on 2nd gen), etc. are typically good for around 100,000 miles each.
     
  8. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    2009, the last year of the second generation prius, had most of the bugs worked out.

    2010, the first year of the third generation prius, had a lot of bugs. but not all of the cars. some people experienced more than others.
    one big thing to watch out for is oil burning around 100,000 miles.
    the change from gen 2 to gen 3 is not that significant imo, but you should drive each to see which you prefer.
     
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  9. WilDavis

    WilDavis Senior Member

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    …there's much to be said for getting the last year of a model, since by then most, if not all of the bugs/teething problems have been solved, and you're not the guinea-pig! (…just sayin' that's all!)
     
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  10. jbirdawg

    jbirdawg Junior Member

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    Makes sense, I have learned not to update to new OS until the bugs are worked out every time. I found a 2008 w leather w 81K on it that I am having Toyota inspect tomorrow. $7700 out the door if I like it.
     
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  11. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    2008 was a great year.
     
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  12. jbirdawg

    jbirdawg Junior Member

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    good to hear!
    What causes the oil to burn? How will I know?
     
  13. Moving Right Along

    Moving Right Along Senior Member

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    To the best of my knowledge, leaks are what causes oil to burn. When seals get degraded, the oil leaks out a bit and then burns up as it drips on the engine. You'll be able to tell if you check the oil dipstick and it's below the full mark.
     
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  14. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    the consensus here seems to be that people who followed the proscribed 10,000 mile oil changes tend to become burners around 100,000 miles, and people who changed it every 5,000 as proscribed for the gen 2, tend not to.
    but it's based on owners reports only, and we don't have anything scientific that i know of. there are a couple of 2010 oil burning threads.
    i don't know how you would identify a burner during a test drive and observation.
     
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  15. RCO

    RCO Senior Member

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    It's that on the principle of...
    .. If it ain't bad, don't change it? Sounds good to me. :cool:
     
  16. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Old timer's rule of thumb: Two main things lead to burning oil.

    1. If the valve guides are worn, oil will drain through there to the combustion cylinder. If you get a cloud of smoke when you start the engine, that's an indication of worn guides.

    2. The other main burn problem comes from the rings. Oil can get past them, especially under heavy load. They will tend to blow a cloud of smoke on acceleration.

    Either one might be hard to spot from the driver's seat unless it's really bad.

    Bad seals will generally lead to stains on the driveway.
     
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  17. jbirdawg

    jbirdawg Junior Member

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    Well, I bought the 2008 w/ 80K on it. The leather seats and the interior looked as if very few people had ever been in there. Paid Toyota the inspection fee to check it out. Almost everything checked out great. The tire pressure sensors were out. $471 of I wanted to repair them. I am not sure if they have any effect on anything else on the car but the only tire pressure monitors I have had, dating back to my first car, VW bug '71, was the $3 kind one can put in his shirt pocket. The other notice given was the drive belt was showing some cracks. I am having it replaced tomorrow. Also the cabin air filter. On the drive home last night, with my son following me, I noticed his headlight go out on the drivers side. The fog light on that side is out too. I was studying video of how to change it today and went out to look at the situation and it seemed as if the plastic cover w/ O ring may have been loose. I was just trying to see if I could get to the light myself. I tightened it back on and turned the car on and the light was working. Fog light still out. I am not sure if I have the DI lights or halogen. The cover is plastic, not rubber like the manual suggests where it talks about changing bulbs.
     
  18. WilDavis

    WilDavis Senior Member

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    ...replacing cabin air-filter takes all of 30 secs (see youtube video for how!) . I had dealer replace cracking belt (part of 100,000mile service, along with cleaning & adjusting rear brakes, and replacing spark-plugs (they changed PCV at same time for just the cost of the part since they had all the stuff removed in order to get at the plugs). Welcome to PriusChat! Good luck!
     
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  19. jbirdawg

    jbirdawg Junior Member

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    Thanks, Will, I will check on that cabin filter. They want like $58 or something for that. One other filter needs changing too. Can't remember without looking at it. Are these filters available at Autozone or somewhere like that or would I have to order them? What is PCV?
     
  20. Prodigyplace

    Prodigyplace Senior Member

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    FYI, the manuals are online at
    2006 Toyota Prius Owners Manual and Warranty - Toyota Owners