Is this the brake actuator, a low 12v battery, or...?

The image doesn't display over here, could you please "copy and paste" the actual image into the reply?

 

or just post the codes?

 

A possible way to rule out the battery is to put a charger on it - battery minder has them for as low as $25 and see if it charges up and holds the charge and the lights disappear.

When I had my 2008 Prius Brake actuator go out I also got the three lights. I bought a Techstream setup off ebay for $25 to read the codes and that helped me diagnose it to the brake actuator. When my actuator failed you could begin to hear it constantly cycling off and on to hold an acceptable brake pressure. No leaks, low fluid level or pedal drift to indicate loss of pressure or fluid.

I replaced mine myself. I searched the internet for the cheapest OEM unit and it was at Olathe Toyota for $1300. This was about 4 years ago. It is expensive to have the Dealer replace it, but having done this job I understand why they want so much labor cost.

Incidentally to do this job right you need Techstream to calibrate the system and to bleed the brakes after the install. Installing the Brake Actuator and its resistor are only the first part of the job.

Some great threads exist here to help you if your Brake actuator is bad and you attempt this yourself. This is one of those jobs that is not for the faint of heart do-it-yourselfer,.

It sound like you have already checked this out but here is the Dorman link
ABS Pump and Motor Assembly | 587-765 | Remanufactured ABS Pump Assembly | Dorman Products

 

Hey Sponge, I'm gonna piggyback on your thread a tiny bit. I'm having about the same problems with my 2002 Prius, handful of codes and all the lights PLUS the triangle of death. For your sake and mine, I hope some of you folks out there have answers for us!
Here is my original post.
2002 Prius C1259, C1241, C1213, C1214, help! | PriusChat

 

As the trouble codes haven't even been posted here yet, and there are around a couple hundred reasons those lights can be on, and in some cases the solution is a simple procedure that takes a couple minutes and costs nothing, I would strongly urge getting the codes posted before planning any several-hour replacement of any several-hundred-dollar part.

Often when the issue needs a two-minute free solution, the several-hour/several-hundred replacement will also solve it (because the replacement actuator won't want the simple procedure done, or because it will have to be done in the course of replacement), but that's kind of the long way around.

 

Forgot to mention the time to do this job. A dealer most likely want a whole day to replace the part and everything else.

As a do it yourselfer it took me two days - a weekend. I took a break after all the hardware installation and did a lot of the final follow up work the next day.

It can be a tough decision to make a repair like this on a vehicle because of the expense and time involved.

 

... making it an easier and easier and easier decision to look at the OP's trouble codes first and find out what repair—if any—is even needed.

 

Another item that can help diagnose the item is knowing where the actuator is located. It is on the drives side firewall. It is a little hard to view with the Inverter/converter in place. Mine was about 12 inches from the top of the firewall. That is where the constant noise will originate. It has a whole spider web of brake lines coming from it. The noise that is typical for a failing brake actuator is a constant repetitive sound of the accumulator being charged by the pump assembly. When an accumulator assembly is working correctly you hardly notice it, when one begins to fail you hear the constant noise for the pump running to charge up the accumulator - you can almost set your watch by the constant charge/ discharge cycle from the unit. If your Prius has been sitting awhile when you approach it with your key and open the door you will sometime notice a winding noise and this is your brake accumulator running its charge cycle to prepare the car to be driven.

My actuator began having problems before it failed-almost constant charge up cycles every 60 seconds. Once I attempted to calibrate it with Techstream it began to throw the C1256 code. Sometimes an Auto Parts store will read the codes on your car for free.
Yours may not be currently drivable to obtain the codes.
The lights that showed up on mine were ABS, BRAKE and TRACTION CONTROL (VSC) once the Actuator Assembly finally gave up the ghost completely and started throwing a code.

This is a very common problem with Prius models in these years. The failures were so common Toyota Extended the Warranty on them and reimbursed customers. Like you mine failed out of the extended warranty period. Parts are readily available as it is a very common failure.
When mine began to fail Toyota Service actually help me diagnose it and prepare me for when it would give up the ghost completely. Hope this helps. It's fun to share your experiences and pay back the many nice people on this site who helped me work through my problems with the brake actuator.

Hope this helps you to diagnose. Other items like a faulty wheel speed sensor can cause the lights I mentioned to come on but the constant charge/discharge cycle is usually the telltale sign on a failing accumulator

If you haven't explored it yet you tube has many videos on this failure as it is so common.

 

the trouble codes.

the trouble codes.

the trouble codes.

 

Just what, exactly, are you trying to say?????

 

The original poster wrote:

The lights only mean that there are codes, and the codes will reveal which of the couple hundred possible reasons caused the lights to come on. But the OP hasn't posted the codes yet. The broken-image icon in the original post might be where a picture of the codes was meant to go, but a broken-image icon doesn't really tell anybody what the codes are.

As the OP evidently already has the trouble codes and could post them, that's the obvious next step. Depending on what the codes reveal, sometimes no repair of anything is needed at all, other than one of a few simple relearning procedures. If the codes give any reason to start talking about spending hours replacing the most expensive part of the brake system, then, for heaven's sake, there will be time to talk about that then.

 

There is an image in post #3 and in text in post #5

 

My apologies! Something was weird about the timing: although #3 is timestamped 10:44 and my suggestion #4 to post the codes shows 11 minutes later, I'm positive I had not seen #3 there when I posted #4 (otherwise I would have seen the codes and had no reason to post #4).

I'm not at all sure how I missed #5, but I certainly did, not once, but several times. Huh.

Yes, with the C1256 and C1391, I agree the actuator is worth talking about. Sorry for the distraction.

 

I think this happens when a new member’s postings are held for moderation: once approved, they’re inserted into the thread according to the time of original posting, without any sign that they were delayed. Perhaps @Tideland Prius can confirm.

 

Do you have a multimeter or voltmeter that you could use to test the 12v battery at the jump points under the hood?