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It's time! 100k proactive maintenance

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Bgustafson, Apr 8, 2018.

  1. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I don't think it's mandatory. Pros though:

    1. Lots of room.
    2. Very short hose runs.
    3. May help with OCC efficiency: hoses dropping down to the OCC, and then back up, can't hurt.
    4. Maintain stock appearance, when you pop the hood.

    Cons:

    1. Pretty much only accessible from below, during oil change. Well, unless you want to remove the air intake. Works well from below with the Moroso, which has a tap on the underside.
     
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  2. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    The air intake takes 3 mins to remove;).

    Three 10 mm bolts and then snake it out:).

    Very easy access to the dip stick on the catch can. In the 8 k miles I have on our Prius since the install, and all I have collected is about 6 ounces;).

    But I check every Saturday to ensure something weird doesn’t happen(y).
     
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Someone here (memory fails me) removed the tap from the Moroso can, added a regular spigot (like the intake and outlet), did a low mounted installation, connected a foot or two of hose and connected the tap at the end of that hose, basically running the tap over to an opening in the underpanel.

    A bit too much complexity for me, but food for thought.
     
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  4. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Yeah I’m in the Keep It Simple Solution (KISS) principal camp too (y).
     
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  5. JMJCATH

    JMJCATH Member

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    Just to clarify, are you're talking about the throttle body bolts (7 ft. lbs.) or the MAP sensor stud bolt (44 in. lb.) or something else?

     
  6. tvpierce

    tvpierce Senior Member

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  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    The throttle body bolts and nuts are 7 ft/lb. The throttle body studs are 44 inch/lb (these are the studs the throttle body nuts thread onto). MAP sensor stud bolt I wouldn't bother with torque wrench, it's just a retaining bolt, just tighten it firmly.

    See attachment:
     
  8. Bgustafson

    Bgustafson Active Member

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    Do you have images of your install posted anywhere?
     
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  9. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    ^ First picture in @Raytheeagle 's link, you're looking up and towards the front of the engine bay, from below. You can see the radiator fans in the background. It looks like there's zip ties going 'round the lower cross beam (that the one that acts as front jacking point) that loop around a zip tie wrapped 'round that cut-down soda tin, the OCC holder.

    Or something like that, I'm not clear on the zip tie configuration. You could also cut some slots in the pop can bottom, run zip ties through them.
     
  11. Bgustafson

    Bgustafson Active Member

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    I like this install. Easy to access. Is it low enough? (y)
     
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  12. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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  13. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    I drilled two holes in the bottom of the can and routed 2 black zip ties through the holes:).

    The lower cross member has some undulated edging on it, so the 2 zip ties are between one of those ribs and keep it in place:).

    Works well(y).
     
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  14. Bgustafson

    Bgustafson Active Member

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    Thank you! That explains it. You have too much time on your hands though! :ROFLMAO: :whistle:
     
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  15. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Yeah, don't get me started about AutoCAD, lol.
     
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  16. Bay Stater

    Bay Stater Senior Member

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    The OCC sits higher than the PCV valve, but the hose run dips below the PCV. So what doesn't make it to the OCC will collect in the hose, away from the PCV. (y)
     
  17. Bay Stater

    Bay Stater Senior Member

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    There is a loop mount holding the OCC in place. It's a simple 3" adjustable pipe band attached to an L bracket.(y)
     
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  18. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Was out in the garage checking out oil levels, and took some access shots for the catch can placed below;).

    Intake removed in about 2 minutes using the 10mm quick driver:
    D7F97D35-131E-4C5F-BC24-A3BE4CB31132.jpeg

    Picture with the intake removed: 9D6C353D-E8D6-4E9C-9DC2-498934198ACD.jpeg

    Side view from the passengers head light looking at the catch can:
    FEEDCB03-6071-4477-A1B1-029DB0F5E4F2.jpeg

    Picture of the catch can with removable dipstick from above:
    7D865390-F55D-47FF-A906-87A89C3B2375.jpeg

    Easy once a week check and works when filling in the 5 minute time between wiping the oil dipstick and rechecking the engine oil level(y).
     
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  19. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Weekly seems a lot: at what rate are you adding the miles, and how much are you catching?

    We're lucky to do 3000 kms in 6 months (have a 12 volt smart charger on, pretty much always), and in that time/distance last winter the OCC accumulated approx. 100 cc. Which means I can just incorporate a drain with my 6 monthly oil change interval.
     
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  20. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    400-500 miles a week;).

    Our 2010 now has 178 k miles on it:).

    I do it to ensure it doesn’t fill up or something odd happens. Since the install in December, have probably only caught 6 ounces or less;).

    But since I’m out in the garage anyway, a simple thing to add to the routine (y).
     
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