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JBL Premium sound system problem

Discussion in 'Gen 5 Prius Audio, Electronics and Infotainment' started by o_intent, Feb 15, 2024.

  1. PhoS

    PhoS Active Member

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    If you're gonna go the lengths of installing a LC7i you might as well get a real DSP so you can correct the sound. The signal even pre-amp is a mess and will need some correction. You also don't need a LOC to do the kicker, most powered subs like your HS8 have line level inputs it's just a matter of tapping the doors.
     
  2. o_intent

    o_intent Junior Member

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    I know the sub has speaker level inputs. However, the 46KISLOC2 is a small price to pay for these conveniences I'm about to list, to justify my purchases and over-complicate my projects:

    1. It provides a detachment point at the tap in location where I can plug/unplug an RCA cable and go.

    2. The Kicker 46KISLOC2 unit itself, sends a nice remote out signal to activate the amp/sub, much more reliably than speaker level sensing.

    3. I can't help but think a (good) LOC will just send out a cleaner --some will clean out noise, level match --Line Level signal, at a voltage that's much more manageable to most amps.
     
  3. soft_r

    soft_r Junior Member

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    Kicker KISLOC2. Wanted to stay passive and meade916 did a comparison of locs and this one performed very well for being passive. If the day comes when I want to run active I'll get the LCi2.

    0 No audio.png 15 Vol Head Unit.png 24 Vol Head Unit.png 33 Vol Head Unit.png

    Attached images are no audio playing, so there is some sort of background noise there in the high range. This is prior to the amp and I saw it without the DSP as well.

    The following 3 images show volume changes, and I've done some VERY LAZY settings to try to bring down the high end and match the mid range. Bass is also boosted by one notch in the head unit because I do enjoy some good bass and I wanted to feel it a bit more from my front door speakers.

    But I notched the treble back 1 on head unit and then applied a 12dB/octave LPF around 10k or so (I forget exact) to the tweeters (which is the signal you're seeing here without my HPF active).

    When I'm not feeling lazy I'll sit out there with my car and actually do proper EQ on the input signal to the DSP and make it nice and flat with no adjustments on head unit. After that I can just adjust things by ear to what sounds good to me. But yeah that high end was kicked up probably due to the muddy sounding speakers that Toyota uses in the dash. So they probably did that to compensate. EQ is free, changing parts is expensive and they like to reuse their speakers across vehicles and years.

    And no bass roll off at least up to 33. Didn't go further because I still had all my speakers active and the pink noise was already loud and I wanted to wrap this up. But when I go out on a not-so-hot day I'll disable the other speakers and do a proper test up to 50 vol. Personally just from listening and driving up to 45 vol I don't notice any bass roll off. Sub hits just fine.

    Edit: Bass hits fine enough that some songs even cause my rear speakers (currently factory and wired in parallel with the fronts) to rattle the rear doors. So much so that I'm adding a 0-150hz bass blocker on the rears to reduce that until I get around to wiring up the rear doors independently and doing sound dampening, etc.
     
    #63 soft_r, May 15, 2024
    Last edited: May 15, 2024
    otatrant likes this.