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Jerky ride, skidlight flickering, dry straight road 30mph

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by R-P, Mar 16, 2017.

  1. R-P

    R-P Active Member

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    I am assuming the jerky ride was due to the skidlight showing that the ABS-sensors or computer saw skidding happening. But maybe I am all wrong...

    Any thoughts are welcomed.
    Like where is the ABS computer and where are all contacts and plugs located to these sensors? I am assuming (hoping) it is due to the ABS computer signalling that there is skidding going on due to sensor error or contacts being loose/rusty.

    It happened straight after flooring the Prius to get onto a road with loads of traffic. I then drove 50km/u (~30mph) and it ran in EV (automatic, not manual). It started to judder, like if there is some dirt in the fuelsupply or if your tank is nearly empty. After each judder, I saw the skidlight come on.

    It misbehaved for about 20 seconds, still maintaining 50km/h and continuing this behaviour when the ICE jumped in (not 100% sure about this, but 95%... It was very frugal while helping out: 1.5l/100km or 150mpg, but this lasted only a few seconds and I only saw two values during this time)

    Other points of interest: I have had issues with the cruise control dropping out of its set value due to bumps in the road ever since I replaced the right front wheel bearing. I have loosened the ABS sensor and refitted it since then, but no difference. I also replaced the left front wheelbearing since then and its ABS bolt snapped. This sensor is only held on by two threadrotations.

    I skidded off the road a week ago. There is a turn I can take with 70km/h on a dry road, but I let go of the gas too late and didn't want to brake, so I tried it at 70 with a wet road. The rear swerved out (less thread on them, little under 2.5mm (1/10 inch), I overcompensated as I was heading for the barrier and swerved to the other side, sliding sideways through the grass. Apart from having some difficulty getting out of the gras (constant skidding, power throtteling back, etc), I saw no ill effects and drove hundreds of kilometers since then without any peculiar behaviour.


    Edit: no error codes reported by Torque free app. Thanks for reminding me to add this, andrewclaus!
     
    #1 R-P, Mar 16, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2017
  2. andrewclaus

    andrewclaus Active Member

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    The "low hanging fruit" here is a mis-aligned or loose wheel sensor, and/or a poor connection. That would probably cause your symptoms.

    Do you have a Toyota scanner able to read the ABS/VSC system test codes?

    In North American cars, the skid control ECU is located under the dash near the steering column. The wheels sensors report to it.

    You can look in the library section of this forum and find a wiring diagram for starters.
     
    R-P likes this.
  3. R-P

    R-P Active Member

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    Just to post somewhere that I have yet again replaced the right front wheel bearing.

    For the rest it drives fine, no excessive 'juddering' and the car dropping out of cruisecontrol is just the switch on the brakepedal (haven't removed this to inspect, but lifting it with my toes makes the CC drop out).

    I just reread my post above about the left ABS-sensor hanging on by a thread (or two). The right wheel also had the bolt just rotating without clamping down the sensor in what was once threaded aluminium but now just basically white powder. I took a thicker bolt and applied some loctite*. While cleaning out the steeringknucle, I noticed it isn't made for eternity: having stainless steel (?) in aluminium is a recipe for disaster, which is why I always (pretty bad I can actually use the term "always" by now as this was the third time already) drop the steeringknuckle at the Toyota dealer and they press out the bearing for free. But the cleaning with rotating sandpaper takes off some aluminium and the bearing doesn't need much force anymore to be seated properly, whereas seating bearings is normally done by pressing them into position as it should be an extremely tight fit. For my motorcycle I actually BAKED the bearing in a frying pan so it would expand enough to fit. ;)

    In short: for the next bearingreplacement I should (1) cut new thread for the ABS sensor or (2) simply just find a 'new' complete steeringknuckle.


    * a better way would be to dismantle the just 'mated' steeringknuckle and bearing and properly thread the hole for the ABS-bolt, but that would have been another few hours work that I did not want to invest.
     
  4. tidesofthesky

    tidesofthesky Member

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    Sounds like you fixed it? Couldn't tell for sure with your last post. I had the issue of the traction control engaging on my Prius at highway speeds off and on really consistently and cutting power. Turns out it was one rear tire that was just slightly a different size. Replaced the tires and it's been perfect since then.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  5. R-P

    R-P Active Member

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    The juddering hasn't occured anymore. So not as much fixed as just not occuring anymore.
    I don't vividly remember the original posting, in my vague memory it should have been linked to wintertires of questional quality but I am probably mixing different memories into one occurance...

    New issue though. The fuel-tankbar is dropping like crazy. I have lost 4 blocks on 160km (100miles) which would normally drop me 0 (zero) or 1 block max. Thinking back, I drove a stretch 5 times which is 35 to 40km (depending on which exact end-point: kids school or grandma (they then cycle to school from there)) since filling up the day before yesterday. Which would mean I drove more than 160km for sure.

    I removed and put back the ABS sensor and as said, I glued the bolt in place and the thread has corroded into non-existance. I used a longer bolt with some Loctite on the tip, so while I am fairly certain it is PROPERLY fastened, I can't rule out the possibility that the ABS-sensor is 'misfiring' so to speak. But there's never a flicker of the ABS-light.
    Going by the blocks of fuel, I should have driven up to ~350km by now, which seems MORE than I can possibly have driven even if I am forgetting some driving I did in the last two days.

    So:
    - blocks of fuel disappear too fast
    - number of km is too low
    - mpg is normal

    I think I am missing something ;)
     
    #5 R-P, Nov 19, 2020
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2020
  6. R-P

    R-P Active Member

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    I checked the distance-meter and that is about 1% off, which is basically nothing*.
    Different tire sizes will cause more deviation and my speedometer has a far bigger deviation as well (at least 5%)

    So I think I overestimated the distance per stretch of the 5 trips I made. So the only remaining problem is the disappearing blocks. There's no petrol smell around the car in the morning ;)

    Maybe I should just fill it up to the brim and start over with this measurement.

    What I did forget to mention (but which should have no bearing on all this) is that the car forgot all its settings (like km driven since last fill up and mpg since then) because I disconnected the battery for a day when changing the wheelbearing. I doubt it, but maybe that causes some flaky behaviour.



    * The Netherlands have hectometer signs, so a sign every 100 meters on all highways/motorways. After 5000 meters the distance meter was about 50 meters off (maybe 40, maybe 60 meters), so it showed 5.0 km while I had actually driven 5050 meters.
     
  7. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    Yes, fill your tank up (almost to the brim) then drive it untill you hit 1 bar and refill it again- this will give a baseline of fuel used per 1 total gauge sweep (full to "empty").

    I would guess - based on your symptoms- that the fuel gauge sending unit is worn and giving erratic readings at one spot in its travel. Since you don't have a US spec prius I assume that you can replace the sender without having to replace the entire fuel tank.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  8. R-P

    R-P Active Member

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    I am the boy who cried wolf...

    All is back to normal. I track my fuel usage (see signature).
    Somewhere after the fill-up of the first of November, I replaced the front wheel bearing and the battery was disconnected for 2 days (due to Corona, the Toyota dealer couldn't press out the stainless steel bearing out of the aluminium steeringknuckle while I waited, so it became a 2-day job).
    After reconnecting the battery, it turned out the odometer had been reset.
    The next stop at the gasstation, I filled it up with the fuelcap wedged in the handle and I think this stopped filling the tank too soon.
    Instead of the normal 43mpg, I did almost 60mpg... Sounds fishy.
    But if I average it with the next two fillups, I am back to about 42mpg which isn't bad for wintertime.

    So glitch due to (1) disconnecting the battery combined with (2) not filling to the brim.