Jerry's Evolving Thoughts on "new-to-me" Prime Premium

Discussion in 'Prime Main Forum (2017-Current)' started by jerrymildred, Mar 12, 2019.

  1. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    Just curious, is it only northern states that require the front license plate on a vehicle? I have lived in 5 different northern states, and they all required the front license plate. I wonder why in the north but not in the south?
     
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  2. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    They are required out here on the best coast;).

    Some don’t put them on for vanity reasons, but the CHP catch up with them:cool:.

    Not the end of the world if you put them on(y).
     
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  3. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    You got me curious, too. I've sometimes wondered, but never investigated. It seems like mostly northern states that require them.

    So I did a search and the first site on the list turned out to be very interesting. Which States Require a Front License Plate?

    In short, my impression was correct. Most northern states require them, but not all of them. (PA, for example) Most southern states don't require them, but not all down here either. (TX, for example) There are good arguments for and against front plates, so it's no wonder to me that it's so variable.
     
    #583 jerrymildred, Jan 1, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2020
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  4. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    Thanks for the leg work. Interesting to say the least, but the article fails to comment on the reason why North vs South division on the front license plate law. I was thinking maybe it has something to do with snowfall, but maybe not. I always thought europian style long and thin number plates are cool, but never owned a car that would have mattered much.
     
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  5. Tideland Prius

    Tideland Prius Moderator of the North
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    I prefer the Euro style plates for the front for aerodynamic reasons. Our rectangular shape tends to extrude into the lower air dam.
     
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk 'Orrible Oracle

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    Where are the front license plate holes? Just googling, I get the impression from this pic there's a couple dimples, guidance for a drill if you were going to pre-drill for the screws?

    upload_2020-1-1_14-26-6.png Those pieces look detachable?
     
    #586 Mendel Leisk, Jan 1, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2020
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  7. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    That’s where my front plate is affixed;).

    Also serves as a good protector of the acrylic chin:cool:.

    I know it had a couple of dents in it from the ag trucks out here:oops:.

    But the day will come when my luck runs out(y).
     
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  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk 'Orrible Oracle

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    Our son rented a Wrangler recently, on vacation. I haven't got the review yet...
     
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  9. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    You weren’t there to ride in your dream ride:whistle:?

    As a fan of their bumpers, the Gladiator appears to be up to the task:).

    Nice throw back to the Scrambler(y).
     
  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk 'Orrible Oracle

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    Yeah, strange name, interesting pick up. Looks a little better than that stainless steel stealth fighter.

    Just pipe dreams, and I'm sorry, completely into the rough, @jerrymildred .

    Kind of on-topic, it'd be nice if Toyota could manage a bumper that didn't involve a chandelier front, nor embossed your license plate on the back bumper of whomever you rammed. In short: have a recess, purpose-built for the license plate, and make the front fairing out of something durable and scuff resistant. Say rubber?
     
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  11. Washingtonian

    Washingtonian Active Member

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    Mine came with a device to attach the front license plate. Not sure if it was something the dealer had to add or from the factory. The little metal square things are what the license plate holes align with. 2020-01-02 2020-01-02 001 001.JPG
     
  12. DavidA

    DavidA Prius owner since July 2009

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    ^ That bracket is what mine has as well. Not the easiest to screw the license plate bolts to either.
     
  13. Tideland Prius

    Tideland Prius Moderator of the North
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    Same as @Washingtonian. There’s a bracket to attach to the bumper.

    My Gen 2 and 3 were the same. The plate was attached to a bracket which was then attached to the bumper.
     
  14. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Also the same as @Washingtonian. The bracket, btw, has pins that locate it in those recesses in the grill so the plate is easy to center. Apparently, the original dealer in New Jersey assumed no one would ever take off the front plate in which case not pre-drilling would never be noticed. So now I have this:

    IMG_1614.jpg
     
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  15. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk 'Orrible Oracle

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    Is it possible to get just that little piece I wonder. That aside:

    Deburr with a countersink bit:

    upload_2020-1-2_7-21-5.png
    Or just some sort of awl, push the frayed edges back in?

    Then drill to suit and push in a bumper plug, the closest color-match you can find:

    upload_2020-1-2_7-23-32.png
     
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  16. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Good thinking. I already have the countersink and was considering using it or maybe my dremmel with a tapered stone at very low speed. I have some plugs that might work. Perhaps, if I can get that offset crack lined back up, I can then drill to fit the plugs, cover it all with plastidip, and then pop in the plugs. Easier than trying to smooth over the holes.
     
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  17. Trollbait

    Trollbait It's a D&D thing

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    Plates aren't a universal size across the globe, and some places, like Pennsylvania, don't require a front plate.

    Legality varies by jurisdiction, but I heard of a company that makes a vinyl decal of your plate for those wanting a clean front bumper where a front plate is required.
     
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  18. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    I was thinking about combining the grill project with my oil change, but the all day rains kind of put the brakes on anything related to painting. So I changed the oil.

    First, kudos to @Mendel Leisk for the suggestion of using the paint can opener for the plastic rivets on the plastic shield. That's the bomb!!! Thanks. (y)

    Second, the ramps I made worked great. I just pulled forward a little and slid them under the car behind the front wheels. Then backed up onto them using my backup camera and floor mark to stop me in the right place. My floor jack fit perfectly under the car and "Bob's your uncle," the front was on the jack stands.
    IMG_1616.jpg

    IMG_1617.jpg

    IMG_1619.jpg

    Using the paint can opener on the plastic rivets that I washed last time, I had them off in no time flat, making it easy to do a quick visual inspection of the car's "basement." Then change the oil & filter and reverse the process to put it back on all fours. I noticed that the oil filter cap was kind of gritty and icky, so I cleaned that up and re-lubed it while I had it off.

    One hour, start to finish taking my time. Pay someone to do this stuff for me? No way!! They'd have to pay me to let them do it. :ROFLMAO:
     
    #598 jerrymildred, Jan 4, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2020
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  19. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Well, rats!! I got the grill off and discovered that the construction makes it really hard to reinforce and cement the crack. So it was a neat exercise, but I walked away with empty hands, but knowing more than I did before. Here's a blow by blow. For reference, I used the PDF that @Salamander_King provided in another thread (https://www.aioinissaydowa-arc.co.jp/pdf/technical/technical_115.pdf) and that was sufficient, but it sometimes took some effort to know exactly what to do since the pictures and explanations were not very thorough.

    IMG_1626.jpg
    After taking off the black radiator cover (piece of cake), you can see and unplug the DRCC sensor.

    IMG_1627.jpg
    The sensor is relatively easy to unplug, but all the plugs took some effort and did a little "snap" when they broke free, almost like there was a very mild adhesive.

    IMG_1628.jpg
    Removing these four clips (2 on each side) was straightforward, but they did feel kind of flimsy. Also note that you turn them to the LEFT 90 degrees to release them. And they flex quite a bit.

    IMG_1629.jpg
    You have to work in the blind to find and remove these screws. One on each side. The illustrations provided in the PDF were extremely vague as to the location.

    IMG_1631.jpg
    This was the scary part! The PDF said to release the three "claws" on each side. No explanation as to which way to pry or where to pry. I pried straight down starting at the end closest to the tire.

    IMG_1632.jpg
    I found the turn signals easier to unplug if I lifted the whole plug off the tab it was hanging on. See the gray part with the black inside it? That's the hanger.

    IMG_1634.jpg
    Squeeze hard where my index finger is and pull them apart. Mine were stuck pretty good so I had to be careful to not damage the wires with the force I had to use. I had to pull scary hard!

    IMG_1636.jpg
    And it just lifts off after removing a few more fasteners. There are 2 bolts and 4 plastic rivets holding it to the radiator mounting assembly. In the top picture, you can see the two bolts and the hole for one of the plastic rivets.

    IMG_1639.jpg
    The ends with the body color are held on with 6 or 8 Philips screws and some plastic tabs. Very easy to remove and install, but it helps to have someone steady the other end as you work on it.

    IMG_1641.jpg
    And then I came to the show stopper. The silver part is the back of the cracked acrylic grill. There is a lot of black plastic supporting structure and it' doesn't allow enough room to splint and glue the crack. You can see part of the crack there at the tip of my finger. I guess if I want it fixed, I need to buy one. If I do, it should go faster next time. This first time took about 2 hours to get apart. Less than an hour to put it all back.

    So, color me disappointed but glad that it was fairly easy.
     

    Attached Files:

  20. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    Thanks for showing step-by-step photo. Even though you made it sound like not too hard, it looks bit too much work for a small cosmetic fix which can happen again as soon as you replace it with a new grill.

    One question. So, the clear acrylic part is hard glued to the black plastic under it? Is there any way to remove just the acrylic portion of from the rest of the black plastic?
     
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