Just Another HV Battery Thread and Experiments

Noting the block nine did not have a distinguishing internal resistance difference although the module para voltage was slightly low. I was hoping internal resistance could be used to help identify bad modules

 

Is there a reference to be able to decode the series? Do the series relate to the manufactured date, or is that also stamped on the module?

 

You use the date encoded in the serial number (first 4 chars) to work out the mixing of series of modules.

If all your serial numbers are in sequence, then the pack has not been monkeyed with.

 

I'm getting P0A80 message on my daughters 2013 Yaris:
2013 Yaris hybrid 1.5l 178k km P0A80 fault | PriusChat
and would appreciate if you could elaborate on the exact procedure and equipment
used for:
(a)In post #3 - did you do anything (charge/discharge) prior to taking the measurements ?
(b)In post #18 - cycling and individual load testing ?
(c)In post #27 - load test of whole battery ? (load testing is mentioned several times - is it the same ?
(d)In post #28 - you mention cycle testing of all modules- is this the same as in post #18 ?
(e)In post #40 - balancing ?

 

EV-Peak CQ3

Hello! First of all I wanted to thank you for all of the information you have shared on PC, I did learned quite a lot from you so far. But I do have some questions left and it would be great if you can answer to them. Thank you in advance!

1) Right now I'm looking for some good RC chargers and I know that you've been using 7 EV-Peak CQ3, so just wanted to ask, did you bought all of them from getfpv.com for 169.99$ each (169*7=1190$)? Because I'm a little confused, both on ebay and marketplace the price for this charger is around 230$. There is also other RC chargers like Hitec X4 Charger, which is pretty similar to CQ3, Turnigy Reaktor QuadKore which is better but more expensive (250 for one) and many others. With all of your experience what can you recommend on buying? Also is it better to buy a new ones or try to get them cheaper from ebay and marketplace?

2) As far as I understand it ok to clean bus burs, but not nuts, right? What kind of chemistry do you use in order to get rid of corrosion on bus bars? Vinegar + salt is working but that not the best way of cleaning them and surely there is more let's say professional ways of doing that. Since nuts is not cleanable where do you recommend buying a new nuts? Also does the 16 gauge wires is the best choice for connecting chargers to modules or is there anything better to use?

3) In this test you have used Hybrid Assistant + Hybrid Report in order to load test (9-10amps) the battery while it inside of the car, and as far I understand you don't make another load test with regular headlight bulb (55w+60w) for each module (120s) like others did in other treads? So it's just one load test while the battery inside of the car, then let it sit for 24 hours to self-discharge in order to do a voltage test, check the wires, clean the bus bars + replace nuts if needed, and then few cycles with RC charger in order to check and to improve the capacity, if anything is low or doesn't go well with the rest, replace it. After that you put the battery inside of car and do a couple of test in order to see the data charts, min and max voltage of blocks, delta, state of charge and etc. Did I get it right?

4) Last question is, do you perform the test (load test, driving test) for each of the battery that you rebuild? If that's the case, every time you have to get the battery from the car, put the rebuild battery, test it, pull this rebuild battery, and put the original battery that was in the car before? If you rebuild Gen2 battery and the car where you're going to put this rebuild battery in is also Gen2, it still acceptable, but what if you have Gen3 battery or Gen1 battery? How are testing them?