JustDidIt - Modding My 2007....The 2008 Touring died.

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Accessories & Modifications' started by Justdidit, Jul 9, 2012.

  1. Justdidit

    Justdidit LVNPZEV

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    I moved the location of the MAF from on top of the intake tubing to the "9 o'clock" position and made the tubing housing the MAF 2" instead of 2.25"
     
  2. Justdidit

    Justdidit LVNPZEV

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    Had an extra hr to tinker last night, installed the generic eBay Front Strut bar brace[​IMG] - Probably could have installed it quicker but it was my first time taking apart the wiper assembly and didn't want to break anything or accidentally crack my windshield as one other did by swinging the socket wrench to quick.

    [​IMG]

    Over all for the $45 - pretty good mod. Similar 'Feel' as the G7 Performance Stiffening Plate - only much more. There is a small S-Curve that I take several times a week. I set my speed at 70mph and took it as normal, the car 'FELT' more stuck to the road than normal. I'm sure the biggest improvement will be with the Sway-Bar upgrades and the GC-Coilovers...but hey $45 I feel well spent. Give it a shot! (y)
     
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  3. Daves09prius

    Daves09prius Active Member

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    Glad you got it installed. I have the same generic e-bay strut tower brace, and I also have a wide sweeping S-curve on my way to work, I can safely take the curve at 70. The front strut tower brace, G-7 Rear tunnel brace, and Progress rear sway-bar do make a difference.
     
  4. Daves09prius

    Daves09prius Active Member

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    Justdidit, you've already got yours installed, I've tried uploading GadgetDad's instructions with pictures, but my webhosting sites won't allow files. Here are his step by step instructions for anyone else who needs them. ​
    BT TECHSTRUTTOWER BRACE INSTALL TEXT​
    (by GadgetDad – Lee)​
    Start

    Step 1: Remove the plastic cap covering the bolt on the driver's side wiper using a small flat blade screwdriver and lightly pry up on the cap. {Open the hood after cap removal}.
    [It is not necessary to remove plastic shield as I did on this wiper. Bolts are accessible without removal.]

    Step 1 continued: Using a 14mm socket, remove the bolt on the driver's side wiper and proceed to remove the two black nuts on the passenger side wiper. Remove both wiper arms from their mounting points. You might have to wiggle the wiper arms and pull from an angle in order to remove them but they will come off

    Step 2: At the end of each side of the black plastic cowling is a plastic pin. Push up from underneath to get the pin to pop out. Grab the cowling and pull it towards you to remove it. {There is a seam in the middle that flexes to ease in removal}

    Step 3: Once the cowling is removed, proceed to unplug the wiper motor connector from the harness. {The screwdriver is just for pointing here. Squeeze the release on the white part of the connector to free the joint} Remove the 5 bolts using a 10mm socket and lift the entire wiper motor assembly out. Be sure to set these parts aside and in order with their respective bolts. {Bolt #1}

    Step 4: Unscrew the two 10mm bolts from the black rectangular electrical relay box on the front of the black metal panel that was under the wiper motor. Remove the seven 10mm bolts holding the metal tray on. Once the bolts that held the plate are removed, proceed to detach the plastic clips that hold the wiring harness. Once the harness clips are detached, simply lift the metal tray out so you have full un-impeded access to the top of the struts. {this is a good time to clean out the debris!}

    Step 5: Using a 12mm socket, unscrew the three bolts on each strut tower.
    On the passenger's side, at the top of the mounting surface, there is an electrical connector that needs to be moved. Gently pull out the connector where it is attached and either re-locate it to the small hole about an inch away to the right or you can neatly tuck it under the existing harness.

    Put the corresponding bracket on each strut tower and install and tighten the three bolts to 30 ft/lbs of torque. Each bracket will be marked either driver's or passenger side to take any guess work out of the install. If the bracket does not fit properly on the top of the 3 studs, there might be some sheet metal interference that is preventing the bracket from attaching Simply take a flat head screwdriver and gently bend the sheet metal that is preventing the attachment of the bracket. {Torque to 30 ft/lbs}


    Step 6: Position the BT Tech strut bar on to the brackets on each strut tower. There will be a label attached saying, UP, so please install the bar so that you can see this label. Once you are sure that the bar is installed correctly, place one of the supplied stainless washers and bolts through each side of the bracket. Be sure to install a supplied stainless washer on each side of the nut and washer. Using a 17mm open end wrench on the bolt and a 17mm socket on the nut, proceed to tighten both sides of the bar to the mounting brackets. Tighten to 30 ft/lbs of torque.


    Step 7: Re-install the black metal plate using the 10mm bolts, {seven bolts}.... wiper motor assembly {five bolts} and plastic cowling. Do not forget to insert the push pin fasteners on each side to secure the cowling.


    Step 8: Re-install the black rectangular relay box using the 2 10mm nuts. You will have to position the relay box in such a way to fit with the strut bar installed, but once the proper angle is achieved, the relay box will fit {snugly} in between the strut bar and metal panel and bolt correctly in place. Proceed to re-attach the harness loom to the metal panel. {No picture of re-attachment of harness loom but make sure it is re-attached to the metal tray.}

    Step 9: Place the wiper arms over the studs and hold it in the correct position on the windshield. Proceed to tighten the bolts securely using a 14mm socket.
    {Replace the plastic cap on driver’s side wiper arm after closing the hood.}
    Finished!

    Your installation is now complete!! Enjoy your new found handling but please drive SAFELY!! {Notice how cleanly it fits too}

    {This strut brace is way cool and fits like a glove into the cramped engine compartment! Thanks to BT Tech!}

    -Lee
    {Gadgetdad}

    Tips and Tricks for reassembly:

    Metal Pan: Start to thread all the screws for the metal pan by hand first before tightening. you may have to adjust and shift the pan as you go along to get all of the holes to align.

    Wiper motor assembly. Same as the pan, start threading all the screws by hand, get them all in where they belong, and then tighten.


    Wipers. Make sure the wipers rest where they're supposed to before tightening. Once you have them set I found it easier to seat the wiper on the bolts by lifting the arm up.
     
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  5. Justdidit

    Justdidit LVNPZEV

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    (y) Exactly what instructions I used. :)
     
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  6. Justdidit

    Justdidit LVNPZEV

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    Finally pix installed:

    [​IMG]

    Makes the handling SOOO much more improved!!
     
  7. Justdidit

    Justdidit LVNPZEV

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    Finally a couple pix of the installed rear Coil-over sleeve.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I have since ordered from GC - 340lb/in rear Eibach springs should be here this wknd - hopefully get them installed.
     
  8. asserspee

    asserspee Junior Member

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    What was the torque for this install? I can't find it anywhere.

    Galaxy Nexus ? 2
     
  9. Justdidit

    Justdidit LVNPZEV

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    The "Torque" android app or what are you referring to?
     
  10. asserspee

    asserspee Junior Member

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    Sorry about the confusion, I was asking what were the bolts torqued to for the tanabe front under brace installation?
     
  11. Justdidit

    Justdidit LVNPZEV

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    err... tight!? I'll have to look back at my notes for the Tanabe Sustec Front Under brace: TUB151F install. I'm not for sure.
     
  12. Justdidit

    Justdidit LVNPZEV

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    340lb/in - Quite beefier - no issues bottoming out - nor bouncy :)

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Justdidit

    Justdidit LVNPZEV

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    Currently in the process of sanding my wheel covers for a new coat of satin black paint - Rolling on the OEM Touring wheels.
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Justdidit

    Justdidit LVNPZEV

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    Thinking if I keep the OEM wheels on much longer, I may look into getting some spacers for the rear.
     
  15. maestro8

    maestro8 Nouveau Member

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    Better post a warning on the back of your car: "parts may fall out at any time"

    Paint? Powdercoating's the way to go for wheels. Much more durable.
     
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  16. Justdidit

    Justdidit LVNPZEV

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    HAHA... and when was the last time you powder coated PLASTIC WHEEL COVERS - I'll stick with a $5 can of satin black anytime.
     
  17. maestro8

    maestro8 Nouveau Member

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    There are no wheel covers in your pic. Sorry I didn't read your text. Sell the plastic on eBay... it's hideous!
     
  18. Justdidit

    Justdidit LVNPZEV

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    oem silver ... i agree.. but painted black. IMO looks pretty good.



    These were taking b4 I lowered it.
     
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  19. Justdidit

    Justdidit LVNPZEV

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    55W Mini H1 Retrofit 6000k with blacked housing and 6000k LED DRLs completed

    [​IMG]

    Now I get to update my signature! :)
     
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  20. Justdidit

    Justdidit LVNPZEV

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    Can't decide....although Weight isn't a concern.... but I can't decide between:

    18x8 45mm offset Konig Backbone - Will need 10mm 5x100 to 5x144.3 adapter
    [​IMG]


    18x8 45mm offset TENZO-R DC-6 V.1 Matte Black - Will need 10mm 5x100 to 5x144.3 adapter
    [​IMG]

    Leaning more toward this:
    19x8.5 45mm offset TENZO-R - TZ7 Silver - 5x100
    [​IMG]
    or
    [​IMG]
     
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