Kicker CS65's - should i return them?

Leave the front dash speakers, I did , no regrets

 

There's a bunch of threads that address the same sort of set up you're trying for. A few of us changed the speakers and added amps both with and without keeping the stock head unit. If you do a search on the forum for audio-related keywords you should be able to find a ton of good info. Here's an example that I used before cutting into my factory harness...

Replace speakers, add 4ch amp and keep head unit? | PriusChat

Good luck and have fun!


iPhone ?

 

If you're using the PPI amp to run the door speakers at 4 ohms, you'll be fine, it's rated 130/ch. You should still be fine with an amp and sub if 400W but that really depends on the model you choose and how powerful it really is. Perhaps add a capacitor on the sub amp to keep the current draw steady.
What kind of LOC do you have? Audio control makes some nice LOC's that have sub RCA's out. If you're using passive PAC-style ones, then you may want to think about an electronic crossover between the LOC and amp. This'll provide the RCAs out to all the amps and may also help clean up any noise.


iPhone ?

 

Yeah, I forgot my own configuration. My LC6i takes 4 channels in and creates 6 out including the sub.. For your budget, you have a better idea.... Skip the crossover and use a Y adaptor on the rear RCA's of your converter. This would create the tap you're looking for to the sub amp. Does the sub amp have a low-pass filter?


iPhone ?

 

Just some ideas.

frodoz Stereo Upgrade | PriusChat

I was born in Red Bluff, though that was a long long long time ago.

 

It will. If you use the 800.4 for the highs and want a sub amp, look into a mono one. They're pretty efficient and can now be found fairly cheap. They're mostly designed to drive subs so will have low-pass filters. Crutchfield runs good sales and also Sonic Electronix is another favorite of mine for good deals.
In a config like this, you would only need your LOC and the 2 amps, done....
Another option if you didn't get any amps yet; Hifonics and a few brands make 4 channel amps that provide an RCA output to feed a second sub amp, no "Y's needed, just daisy-chain the amps.
Check out KnuKoncepts for power and cables. It's a fairly new company and makes great stuff for an awesome price.

 

It depends. Is your amp bridgeable? some amps are NOT bridgeable. Some amps are bridgeable, yet are only stable to 4 ohms bridged, and if you have a DVC sub with 4 ohms per coil, then you're down to 2 ohms bridged. You'll have to watch your impedance or you'll fry your amp. Most 4 channel amps can be configured like that though, you will just have to watch your crossover points and impedance load.

My personal answer is... YES, absolutely replace those stock tweets. If you're gonna upgrade your system, do it right the first time. My suggestion is to get "separates" (components set). MB Quart, Infinity, even Kicker make good ones. You will get way cleaner sound with this setup with clear separation of mids and highs.

 

Agree, definitely use separates up front.

 

""Run new front speaker wire if you use components up front."" Each side door and dash speakers or on the same run in parallel with a bass blocker at the dash speaker (squawker). It's just easier and cleaner with 2 seperate runs of fresh wire per side (I used 16 ga.) and connectors to match your replacements. My linked Album shows the location of my cross-overs and amp.