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Knocking noise

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Roaming2020, Dec 20, 2020.

  1. Roaming2020

    Roaming2020 New Member

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    Hi all, First time posting. 2008 Prius with 227,627 miles. Meticously maintained. Recently noticed car is making an unusual noise. Link to video here >>

    This was recorded with car in park, in ready mode, emergency brake applied. Note the hiss, then knock knock knock... pause, repeat. Same sounds occur when car is turned off also. The hiss is normal, but doesn't generally repeat like it is. I've never heard the knocking noise before now. Any ideas what this is?
     
  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    well not sure about the knocking noise, but your brake accumulator/actuator is leaking pressure. You hear it buzzing every few seconds.
     
  3. Roaming2020

    Roaming2020 New Member

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    Was afraid of that.
     
  4. Roaming2020

    Roaming2020 New Member

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    Another video, a little more audible.


    I strongly suspect the hiss is related to the brake accumulator, as mentioned above. The knocking is something of a mystery but I can't believe it isnt related. Curious if anyone else has experienced anything similar? Also, for anyone who has had to replace the accumulator, what was your ballpark cost? I'm in Northern California.
     
  5. Roaming2020

    Roaming2020 New Member

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    I'm disappointed I didn't get more replies on this. Not sure how to approach this issue, particularly with dealer service closing for Christmas. What I described as a hiss is more accurately described as whirring. It certainly falls within what people are describing as accumulator failure. The knocking noise which accompanies the whirring is concerning as I've never heard it before and don't find anyone else reporting that symptom. Do I just go to service and pay the $150 to disgnose it? Do I keep driving and hold my breath? Do I bite the bullet and trade it in for a newer model with fewer miles? I love my prius but can't even get a sense for how much this will cost to repair, but my hunch is it is expensive. Any feedback you can provide would be appreciated. I am a disabled woman who travels constantly and at some distance for medical purposes and cannot be without my prius.
     
  6. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Well if you plan on the dealer replacing the ABS that’s very expensive in Ca
    Could be $3000. Do not put that money in this car. Miles too high so many things your looking at, the abs the biggest hybrid battery next and on and on...
    Get rid of it.

    Stay away from gen2s as a replacement too as there catalytic converters are being stolen and that’s $2300 in California. It’s epidemic in Ca. Read all the posts on this site about it. Surprised yours has not been stolen.

    And g3 s have a lot of EGR issues.

    Buy a car without a hybrid battery unless you can afford new car.

    good luck.
     
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  7. Roaming2020

    Roaming2020 New Member

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    Ed, thanks for this feedback. I love, love, love this Prius but my concern is as you stated... it seems to be an expensive repair and on a vehicle with so many miles. I feel like I've jumped the shark and now throwing good money (which i don't have) after bad. Do you happen to have a sense for whether I am safe to drive the car short term or am I at risk of a breakdown? Regarding the CAT... I was actually hit twice this year, two different locations in Sacramento. I carry full coverage but am out $1,000 in deductibles. The total cost was $3,800 each. Infuriating.
     
  8. Roaming2020

    Roaming2020 New Member

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    What is an EGR? I've been looking online mostly at 2013 - 2016 years with <110k miles. Would love a Prius V but my sense is repairs are even more than regular Prius. Do you agree?
     
  9. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    You get hit in Davis Ca? That's the the epicenter of cat theft around Sacramento.
     
  10. davecook89t

    davecook89t Senior Member

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    Exhaust Gas Recirculation System. Generation 3 Prius (Model Year 2010 - 2015) are known for having head gasket failure, resulting in costly engine repairs or replacement. It is most commonly thought to be related to clogging of the EGR system with unburnt combustion products on the Gen 3 cars. Gen 2 (MY 2004 - 2009) did not have an EGR system and seem to be much less susceptible to head gasket failure. The jury is still out on the Gen 4 cars (MY 2016 - 2021). They are thought not to have been in service long enough to develop this type of problem, although it is also known that Toyota expanded the EGR passageways for those cars, making them less likely to clog.

    FYI, the Prius v model is based on the Gen 3 design, so would be subject to the same HG problem as the liftback.
     
  11. Roaming2020

    Roaming2020 New Member

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    Late June got hit in front of a friend's home in Citrus Heights. November 4th got hit again in front of a different friend's home in a nice, upscale neighborhood in Rancho Cordova. Both are eastern Sacramento suburbs. Police there said CAT thefts there are twice what they were last year. I've heard Davis is pretty bad too. :(
     
  12. Roaming2020

    Roaming2020 New Member

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    Dave Cook, thank you! That was informative and very helpful since I've been strongly thinking about doubling down with another Prius. It has been my favorite of the six cars I've owned in my lifetime. But expensive! I bought my 2008 in 2014 with 120k and have put 107k on it in the 7 years of ownership. Repairs and maintenance (not including the 2 stolen catalytic converters or the current issue) have run nearly $8,000 -- although it has been suggested the dealer may have taken advantage of me on at least one repair issue. But still, expensive. I think one block for me is having gotten so used to 40-50mpg in the Prius, it would be hard to go back to a regular car getting 28-35mpg. Plus, my Prius is comfortable. I've had 4 hip surgeries and no other vehicle is as easy to get in and out of. But you have me reconsidering and will seriously take this under advisement. Thank you!!
     
  13. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The change involving EGR in Gen 4 was to a different type of EGR called 'catalyzed EGR', where the exhaust gas being recirculated comes from after the catalytic converter rather than from ahead of it as in Gen 3. That's a whole different animal and there are papers in auto engineering journals about the various differences. Both systems have the same purpose (to reduce the formation of nitrogen oxide pollutants during combustion) but: (1) taking the exhaust gas from after the catalyst changes its chemical composition (after all, that's what the catalyst does), and that gives it different chemical effects on combustion in the cylinders, and (2) taking it from after the catalyst means its pressure is lower (some pressure is dropped across the cat), so the EGR passageways have to be proportionately larger just to carry the same volume of gas.

    So, while it's true the passages are larger in Gen 4, there's a basic pressure-related reason for that; they have to be, because of the change to a different EGR chemistry.
     
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  14. davecook89t

    davecook89t Senior Member

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    Wow, that is a pretty strong commitment to an older car. You must really like it. I have to wonder what those repairs include. If a new hybrid battery from Toyota was one of them, I believe my first recommendation to get rid of the car would change. At the very least, if you intend to junk it, you should have someone remove that newer battery and sell it on E-bay, recovering perhaps $1,000 and also remove the new catalytic converter and sell it for something close to that as well. Keeping the car might make sense if the hybrid battery has been replaced and the brake actuator/accumulator can now be replaced for a reasonable price at an independent mechanic. There is at least one good hybrid specialist (and probably more) not far from you (lusciousgarage.com). They might also be able to give you some good advice about which way to go.

    For the record, we have had very good service from our 2007 Prius, with minimal repairs. Over the 80k miles we've owned it, all we've done is replace 2 sets of tires and a cracked windshield, as well as an Inverter Coolant Water Pump and headlight bulbs, which are wear items on these cars. Our car now has 291k miles with the original hybrid battery and braking system, so they are capable of many miles of reliable service without major expense. Needless to say, if our car with that many miles on it does need a major repair, we will be sending it out to pasture, after first removing the original catalytic converter.
     
  15. Roaming2020

    Roaming2020 New Member

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    Dave Cook, you might appreciate this detailed breakdown of maintenance on my 2008 Prius. Yes, a commitment for sure. In so many ways the car is a real pleasure and a great fit for my unusual lifestyle (roaming medical patient, part-time Uber driver, Prius camper). The car is so functional and I still get so many compliments on it. It has begun to show a bit of wear and tear in the past year with some broken plastic creatively recovered in faux leather, broken center lid remedied with magnets, and recently, the rear hatch panel came loose which I intend to fix with glue. Of course, my trade-in value is now minimal which is heartbreaking. I reached out to my rep at Toyota service to ask about the brake accumulator and thought we might be able to do it for around $1,800, which I would have done... but she never called me back and I'm hearing in this group it is likely around $3,000, which I can't justify. And in the meantime, I'm not sure whether I am safe to drive. Do you have any wisdom on that issue? So far the car drives fine and no unusual noises or issues beyond the whirring and knocking.
    20201224_121317.jpg
     
  16. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    How far can you run on a broken leg? That's about the same type of question as how long can you (safely) drive your car. The brake actuator has a pump to pressurize brake fluid and stores it in a "reservior" called an accumulator. When you press on the brake pedal, the HV ecu decides how much regen decel to do vs. how much physical braking. When it decides to actually use the hydraulic brakes it opens valves to direct some of the high pressure fluid to the calipers and wheel cylinders.

    The thing is, once the accumulator is full and you don't use the brakes, then the pump should stay off for quite some time. I can sit in my 2006 for over 5 minutes and not hear the pump cycle. So you have 2 problems. One is that the pumps cycles frequently- so there is a leak inside the actuator. Two is the the pump is very noisy- indicating that it is worn.

    Put those together and the brake actuator might last many months, or it could fail next week- you can't really predict that. If it does go out completely you are left with a "manual" emergency braking mode where the brake pedal and master cylinder are directly connected to the front brakes. Fairly high pedal effort (hard pedal- no boost), no ABS, no rear brakes. So this would give you some braking but long stopping distances and could be a disaster in an "emergency" situation- like someone cutting in front of you and stopping quickly, or a pedestrian crossing the street unexpectedly, etc.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  17. Roaming2020

    Roaming2020 New Member

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    Mr. Guy Mann, thank you!! That was very informative and I appreciate you taking time to explain. Do you have any idea what the knocking is about? I understand the pump trying to pressurize but the knocking is curious.
     
  18. davecook89t

    davecook89t Senior Member

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    I agree that you shouldn't drive the car with a failed brake actuator, but you have not mentioned that you have any trouble lights appearing on your dash. If that's the case, you probably have an actuator that may fail soon, but is still functional. Until you actually see the lights (usually Brake, ABS and VSC), I believe it is safe to drive. After they appear, you would still want to check the DTC codes that are stored in your Braking ECU to confirm that the actuator/accumulator needs replacement. Some auto supply stores would be able to read those codes for you, otherwise a Toyota dealer could read them for a diagnostic charge of $100 or so, which would probably be waived if you agree to let them do the work.

    If that's a firm quote to replace your actuator/accumulator with a new Toyota part, you may want to take them up on that, if you decide to keep the car. The part itself costs about half that much and requires something like 8 hours of labor to replace, so I don't think you could do much better elsewhere.

    I see a lot of suspension work and a combination meter replacement in your list of work done (it's good that those potential problem areas have already been addressed), but unfortunately there is no mention of a hybrid battery replacement. That is the big ticket item that is worrisome for most of us. I know your location gets a lot of summer heat, which is not good for battery longevity, but at least there is some cooling at night, unlike the more humid climates in the East. You may get a couple of more years out of it, it's hard to say, but I believe you would still be well advised to start looking for a good used Corolla or Civic (non-hybrid, as has been suggested) or if you can manage it, a Gen 4 Prius. Best of luck whatever you decide.
     
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  19. Roaming2020

    Roaming2020 New Member

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    Dave Cook, you are correct that I do not (yet) have warning lights. My service rep (who knows me for years now) seemed reluctant to quote me on repairs when I don't have a warning or codes, only a noise. They don't seem keen on diagnosing.via video, even though I'm presently 150 miles from home. My point to them was that by the time the warning light comes I'm likely to have damaged the brakes and I'm big on doing repairs before major damage occurs -- a mindset that probably led me to do a few repairs a bit ahead of when they actually needed it. But yes, so far no warning or error codes, just the whirring and knocking.

    I found the accumulator part advertised online by other local Toyota dealers at about $1,200, which tells me the part costs them about $600. So I was hoping $1,800 was realistic (factoring in my long term customer discount and the fact they just made $7600 on my two new catalytic converters) and I'd pay that -- and then probably be worrying about the hybrid battery until the next major repair.

    To your question about the hybrid battery... yes, I'm still on the original. I think my saving grace is that my Prius is driven almost daily with only occasional breaks of a week or at longest two, when I'm physically unable to drive. I suspect this regular usage has helped keep the hybrid battery healthy to this point.

    Given my love for the Prius vs. Ed's comment above suggesting I resist buying another Prius, I took a harder look at my numbers and did more research late last night. I found quite a bit of info indicating the 2013-3015 MY prius is one of the best cars around.

    Also, my overall expense on the car doesn't seem so out of line when I look at the whole picture. The $8,000 repairs and maintenance sounds harsh until I factored it in with everything else. When I bought my 2008 I paid an extra $2,000 for an extended warranty, which was a waste as I never needed it and would not do it again. So I did not include that expense in my total. But I added up everything else and subtracted my anticipated trade-in value to arrive at a total of $22,518, which at 6.5 years of ownership comes out to approx $3,464 per year or $288.70 per month.

    Screenshot_20201225-072346_Excel.jpg
    I'm not sure whether it is fair to subtract gas savings from that but it was interesting to do the math on 105,500 miles driven at 44mpg vs 35mpg I might have gotten with another vehicle, which at $4 avg per gallon in CA, is a savings of about $4,500 over 6.5 years. If I do subtract that it brings the total down to an avg of $231.32 per month over the 6.5 years of ownership. Looking at it this way, it doesn't seem like such a terrible deal. Am I wrong?
     

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    #19 Roaming2020, Dec 25, 2020
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2020
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  20. Roaming2020

    Roaming2020 New Member

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    A quick update for anyone following this. I was able to have a conversation with a service advisor and an actual service technician at my regular servicing dealer back in Sacramento this morning. The technician wasn't at all opposed to watching my video and discussing with me. Confirmed it is the brake actuator / accumulator. Discussed my concerns re: fixing vs. trading in. Given my long and detailed history with this vehicle, which is otherwise in great shape, there seems to be a willingness to work with me to try and pursue a repair, but that's a little preliminary yet. The technician told me to have the advisor price out a CSP and a TSB (not sure what those are but presuming it is code for the actuator and accumulator). Estimated approx. six hours of labor. I haven't heard back yet about the pricing but I am hoping this means the advisor is looking into all possible discounts before calling me. Stay tuned...
     
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