Leaking rear strut/shock

This is usually caused by unbalanced/out of shape/bad tire or bent rim, and no it is not normal. Have those fixed prior replacing shock. I would also check hub since it had been likely caused by bump and those hubs are not very strong.

I have take off OEM rears laying some around, PM if interested.

 

That leaking shock should be replaced. The fluid leaking is the internal fluid used to dampen rebound.

Some of the major manufactures recommend shock/strut replacement at 50,000 miles. Your mileage may vary though depending on your driving conditions and driving habits. The general test to verify if your shocks struts need replacement is to do the bounce test. The procedure is to push down on a corner of the car and if it rebounds more than twice, the shock/strut assembly in that corner should be replaced.

Worn shocks can contribute to excessive wear on tires and poor alignments. It's a good rule of thumb to get an alignment shortly after the shock/strut assembly replacement. I generally get them done shortly (500-1,000 miles) after I replace shocks or struts to provide the new components time to "settle"

 

I would replace both rear shocks at the same time so the suspension will be even.

 

I agree with OBJ. Both rear shocks should be replaced. With 78,000 miles on your current setup, I would also consider replacing all four.

 

A "strut" provides position control to the wheel. A "shock" just provides dampening. Position control in some sense but not in the way a "strut" does.

That shock is leaking, and they don't contain a lot of fluid. It's done. It's always a good idea to replace them in pairs. The front "struts" are rather more expensive I expect, and if not leaking right now may give you a few more years of service, but do keep an eye on them.

 

Just bought a 2015 LB and still have my 2010 LB. "Normal" wear to suspension is gradual and often goes un-noticed. First thing I did notice after driving both cars however, was the struts/shocks need replacing on the 2010 with 95K miles. With a presumed bad rear shock at 78K on your 2010, I say replace all four. Sorry, these are not covered by warranty.

 

While I respect one's choice to repair their own vehicle or not, be advised shocks are about as easy as it gets when it comes to tools and skill. The info can be provided should you choose to save some money.

 

I am that Brother-in-law in my families. If your's is willing, use him to assist as required using the attached...applicable to your 2010.

PS - Use factory replacements only for the rears...unless you replace all four corners. I believe KYB makes after markets if you take the other option, but they likely cost more.

 

I would recommend doing all 4 also.. the rear are very easy to do where as the front are more time consuming.

 

My fronts have 175K - no problem. Rears didn't need replacement and were replaced with better aftermarket. They were too stiff.

Shocks do not go bad with time like cheese; there is usually a reason. It is pretty much pointless to replace shocks if the reason (bent rim, axle, unbalanced/bumped tire, etc) is not corrected.

 

Not sure your point and I am not going to speak for your car, experience or tolerance but, shocks and struts do wear with "use". If an assumption is made that a shock/strut went bad "due to other damage", then you are correct, replacement should be accomplished after/during said repair and be replaced in pairs like wheel bearings, or all four if mileage/wisdom dictates. Changing and/or mixing shocks/struts for ride preference, brand loyalty, adding/changing sway bars, stiffeners, change ride height with springs or whatever are choices not related to this repair...and not Kermit262"s question. YMMV.

PS - Your welcome Kermit.

 

I think we are not disagreeing. The point was that Toyota hadn't spec'ed out really crappy shocks so there is something else going on and it needs to be addressed prior to replacement - otherwise you are just wasting new shocks.

Usually shock gets damaged if there is something with the wheel s.a. balance, out of round, bent rim etc, or by hitting a big pothole which isn't likely with rear wheel. He could have overloaded car. Or he could have hit a curb. Bad wheel or curb hit could damage hub, so it needs to be also checked. BTW Gen3 has rear hub assembly, which is ~$250+ (or it was a couple years back when I replaced it.

 

Sorta like light bulbs, shock absorbers (and struts) die at unpredictable times, even if nothing else is wrong. They're considered normal wear items. On my last car, one strut failed at about 60K, and others went over 200K.

 

That is why I stated, "If an assumption is made..." I can only recommend based on what is said and a picture that offers nothing other than what is stated. All questions were answered, reference material provided, cost savings submitted and recommendations made including to proceed with more qualified personnel available. Anything else is mere speculation requiring hands/eyes on.

 

The Gen III has struts in the front and shocks in the rear. I wouldn't worry too much about a shock failing at 75,000 miles.
If you are going to replace the shocks and also maybe the struts, you can go with KYB Excel-G which, from my understanding, is what Toyota installs in the factory. Someone correct me if I am wrong. The KYB are as close to OEM as you can get.
You may want to consider installing premium shocks and struts. There is a thread on here about the Koni FSD, just search for that. Some say the ride quality is better than the OEM, and the handling improves. I have installed the Koni FSD struts myself, but I think I am having other suspension issues so I can't attest to the improvement in ride quality, but they definitely reduced the body lean when turning at high speeds. And I installed KYB shocks on the rear. If you want to get the Koni you have to buy all 4 (2 struts, 2 shocks).
Like the other people are saying, it could just be that your shock wore out and failed. Or it could have been caused by a problem with the wheel, so you may want to have a mechanic inspect the wheel and see if it needs to be balanced or something is wrong with the tire.
The newer Gen IIIs have little access panels in the rear to access the shock mount to make replacement quick. On your 2010 it does not have these so they have to rip out all the upholstery which is not hard but very time consuming. Another guy on here (in the Koni FSD thread) cut little holes and bought the plastic panels ahead of time make the job easier.
Good luck!