Looking at a 3G

Hard pass on Prius 2010-2015... They tried to boost MPG too high with weak piston rings so typical Toyota engine lifespan greater than 300K miles is not an option, they also consistently blow headgaskets before 200K miles and have a poorly designed EGR system that clogs quickly and likely is one of the causes of excess engine heat that blows the head gasket.

Buy a 2009 Gen2 Prius or a 2016 or newer Gen4 Prius instead... Or buy a Gen3 Prius with failed engine and put a Gen4 engine in it.

 

Fair warning.... Prius Gen3 Issues

Gen3 Prius with the 1.8L engine from 2010-2013 and some 2014s have bad rings causing excessive oil consumption around 150k-200k, the Brake Actuator is a $2300 failure in the same time frame and the Inverter was also defective from the factory. The brake actuator had a special replacement warranty ("customer support program") that expired after ten years 150k max miles. Most gen3s no longer have the special coverage.

The hybrid battery is good to 180k-220k and the only good repair is new from $1600 diy to $3000.

Too many of these gen3 models eventually exhibit short duration and occasional "cold start rattle" that turns out to be head gasket leakage. Owners either ignore it or clean their egrs, change plugs and injectors and or add pcv oil catch cans, usually too late in the game if engine "rattle" is already occurring. Overheating or blown engines can be an end result of head gasket failure.

Buy a simpler used car.

3 Reasons To Steer Clear Of A 2010-2013 Toyota Prius | Torque News

and Prius Shakes

If that was not bad enough, flippers use temporary sealers to pawn off head gasket failures and odo rollbacks are easy and promoted on this forum. Any car sold with a "replacement" hv battery is usually a hacked mix and match used assembly, also temporarily revived by flippers.

Finally 2016-17 Prius v "wagons" are also gen3s.

 

Almost 297,000 miles on my Prius...... Everything still working....

 

Nope. I used the Prolong system on my Hybrid battery and it's behaving
like new.
No brakes or inverter problems. Normal wear on the pads.
Replaced front and rear hubs. Normal wear.
I did replace the empeller for the water pump. Though the original one was
still looking good and spinning freely.... but... I dropped it as I was re-installing
the water pump, and it broke the plastic empeller... So I had to use the new one I bought.

It will depend on which car you get... It's luck of the draw....

 

Not every gen3 fails early if the oil changes were done at 5k instead of the recommended 10k miles for better engine results. Excessive oil consumption was recognized very early and resulted in new pistons and rings for some. But many have all of the issues and more. Such as liquids in the intake and $800 egr repairs at a dealer. Buying used is a real gamble.

 

10,000 mile oil changes.....

 

TBH The break actuator repairs 2300 in parts If you add labor it's four grand. And the motor is toast before 200,000 mi because it's not only burning oil but it blows a head gasket. Steer clearer the third gen it's nowhere near as good as we thought it was going to be. If you're a mechanic who specializes in hybrids then you can buy used parts and do the repairs yourself but still these are major repairs and most people forget to pay themselves so they think their labor is free. But if you are a professional you know your labor is not free. Third gen is a very expensive card to fix and it needs lots of repairs right at 200,000 mi. They all come at the same time

 

I perceived the reason why people think they can do repairs themselves when they're not a certified hybrid specialist is because they don't realize all that goes into doing it correctly and they can't appreciate how many hours of education and training goes into doing a repair. So they go into it naively thinking they're just going to tinker in the garage after dinner one night and magically everything works again. But it never does work out that way. So if you're not a certified hybrid specialist and you think you're going to fix this car yourself in a couple hours you got another thing coming to you

 

And miss out on the egr cleanings?!

 

None of "those issues" here either, so far, albeit at only about half the mileage ASRDogman reports. Contrary to popular generalization, they don't all oil drink oil if it hasn't been changed at the magic 5000-mile intervals.

 

Some of these guys would be good at Russian Roulette. We would hear it was a fun game, of course only from the winners.

The problem with low tension rings was widespread around this time period. The difference was any shop would work on most of them, unlike a hybrid. Those owners had no brake by wire system, inverter or hv battery to fail. It is not just about the price, it is equally about reliability.

 

ALL cars will eventually break down. ALL cars have problems.
There are pluses and minuses for ALL cars.

It's rare that you know ALL the history of a used vehicle.
Do your research and decide if it's worth the risk of whatever car you decide on getting.

If you are able to work on your own car that's better. You'll need tools. Sometimes specialty tools.
Is it worth it to buy those tools? Only YOU can decide that. Life is much easier with a lift.

You do NOT have to be "certified" to fix your car. I doesn't matter. It "should" matter. But
you'll read on here how Toyota Techs have screwed up people's cars. Or haven't been able to
find the problem with a car that people on here have.

If you find a good Gen 3 Prius that the own has taken care of and not driven like a Formula 1 car,
you will probably be in good shape.

As with ANY car, set aside money, and time, for repairs.

 

I am not a certified hybrid specialist, and I do most work on my car myself.

 

You are an exception to the rule. Most mechanics won't diagnose or repair hybrid issues. Including many uncertified mechanics at dealers. I am sure you could get a job wrenching at the dealer.

Most people are asking if a given overpriced used Prius lives up to the Toyota reliability paradigm. Gen3 is a risk.

 

Cus you did everything right, unlike:

 

I do agree that it may not make much financial sense if all the work is going to be done at a dealership. Work will almost certainly be required, but if done at home it may be a worthy proposition at the correct price.

I recently picked up another 2010 with a good battery for $2200 in a private sale. Here is how much I paid for parts that I determined I would need, from Lewis Toyota out of Topeka:

1. Brake booster: $568
2. Head gasket kit: $188
3. Updated piston rings, set of 4: $116
4. Updated pistons, 4 units: $253

I didn't spring for the brake booster pump, but had I decided to splurge it would've been another $554. The entire brake booster job (booster+pump) would've cost no more than $1122, so I am not certain why others have had to spend $2300 for the same parts.