Loose gas cap costs me $130

I've not ever taken my car in for a check engine light due to a loose gas cap, but 90 minutes sounds like way too long for labor. It shouldn't take them more than a few minutes to pull the DTCs.

Not that this helps, but ScanGaugeII - Trip Computers + Digital Gauges + Scan Tool are sometimes on sale for $140 and you could pull codes to your heart's content + get lots of other info (but is pricey if you're looking for an OBD-2 code reader).

I've seen some non-Toyotas (Fords?) w/a separate warning light for a loose gas cap.

 

I sure would have a serious chat with the Service Manager - or higher. Be courteous but explain the situation. And what they base the atrocious charge on. Many folks know the first thing to check after a CE light is the gas cap - a Toyota technician - or the Service Writer when calling for the appointment should have caught that in 1 minute.

This sure sounds like a typical case of Cha-Ching dealership. And one that should be taken to task with this.... Did you buy your Prius there? If so even more leverage for a refund. Lastly - tell them you're a member of this Forum with thousands of members. Not a good thing for a dealer to have a bad rating here.....

 

Hind sight is a wonderful thing.
In over 2 years on Prius Chat I don't reall anyone suggesting to check the gas cap is tight, but my memory is pretty ordinary.

 

Same thing happened to me, had to wait 3hr but did not get charged.

 

In 2001, I picked up my brand new Sequoia at the dealer. They had made sure it was clean & shiny; even filled up the gas tank. About 25 miles later the Check Engine light came on. I called, they said bring it in, and of course, it was a loose gas cap.

I should have charged them for "dealer error."

 

I am not sure whether or not I am allowed to post this as I don't want to advertise on this board and I had no intent to even bring up this subject! However, in view of the above postings I can possibly help someone read their OBD codes at a decent price.

I do have a ScanGauge II which I am keeping but I also have a ScanGauge I in perfect condition that I can sell at very reasonable price if someone needs it. Email me if interested. The main difference, to my knowledge, between the I and the II is the size of the box (the I is much larger). The II also has a detachable cord and it has L/100Km fuel consumption that the I is missing, otherwise both read the codes the same way.

Please delete this posting if it violates the forum rules! Thanks!

 

The scan gauge II rocks I have one in my truck. You can pull codes. Run injector buzz tests among other things. Read just about an programmed PID in your ECM as well

 

most local auto part stores will check the codes for free
loose gas caps are more often than not the cause of evap leaks
I never charge customers for somthing like that.

 

90 minutes is a little high to diag that though. There is no specific loose gas cap code in the PCM. What comes up is an evaporative emissions code. Although once that code is seen the first thing a competent tech checks is the gas cap.

Most dealers charge an hour labor to hook up to the scanner. Anything beyond that was book time to diag the loose cap

 

also it shouldnt take any where near an hour to find a loose gas cap
that the first thing that should be checked when an evap code is pulled
but most shops have a one hour min. for diagnoises for check engine lights.

 

There's no way a reputable dealer - especiaily one interested in your repeat business - should have charged you for that, or taken so long to figure it out.

Note to Earman: Send me a PM! I may be interested, and shipping would be cheap.

 

Hence, the reason for the fine print on the gas cap that reads: "turn the cap until it clicks one time"

Thank you, thank you, thank you, Ladies and Gentlemen.

 

Any competent tech knows the very first thing you do on a check engine light is make sure the gas cap is tight. Then you pull the codes. Twice I saw a local use car lot bring a car up to my Indy mechanic for a check engine light. The very first thing he checked was the gas cap on tight. Once it was the cap and the other time it involved pulling the codes and tracking down the problem.

In July my moms Buick threw a check engine light. I plugged in my scan gauge and pulled the code. The first thing I checked was make sure the gas cap was tight and reset the code.

Checked on line and knew right away what it was.
Miss on number four cylinder.

Threw in a bottle of Techron and went out on I-75 for a four hour 70 mph drive. Came back and put in some fresh gas. See it is a 1999 Park Avenue with less than 13K miles. Old stale gas was the problem.

 

Can't fill up your car yourself in New Jersey.

 

But there's no law that says you can't screw on your own gas cap. When you're in the left seat you're responsible for the fueling. Get out of the car and stand by the fender. You'll either keep a small problem from turning into a big problem or stop a small problem from happening.

 

I had a check engine light on my 2003 Gen I Prius and my dealer (Keyes in Van Vuys, CA) did not charge anything and the diagnostics only took a few minutes. I would think in the interest of keeping customers around, there would have been no charge or at worst some nominal charge.

 

Pull over after having it filled and "recheck" yourself to be sure..

 

hmmm... interesting.