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Low Voltage in Rear Power Outlet

Discussion in 'Prime Technical Discussion' started by PiPLosAngeles, Nov 27, 2018.

  1. PiPLosAngeles

    PiPLosAngeles Senior Member

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    When I told them what Toyota said, he mumbled something like "typical." He said he'd ask the service manager what they could do since Toyota corporate refuses to fulfill their battery order. He even said, "you'd think they'd just divert some batteries from the production line." I guess I'll see what the manager says Wednesday. This is too much drama for a battery.

    In the meantime, I did some testing. I tested the battery yesterday cold at 12.1V at the posts. I left the car in ready mode for a few hours and tested the battery at 12.65V. I let it sit for a few hours, then ran the headlights for 60 seconds and tested again - 12.5V and slowly climbed back to 12.6V. Good sign. Then I drove the car about 5 miles to run an errand and plugged it back in. This morning the charge was back down to 12.2V. I'll have to test whether the drive is draining the battery, the charging, or just sitting.
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    what does it measure when 'ready'?
     
  3. PiPLosAngeles

    PiPLosAngeles Senior Member

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    14.5V
     
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    gotta be the battery then, right?
     
  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    or maybe you have a parasitic drain. you would need the spec and a way to measure when off
     
  6. PiPLosAngeles

    PiPLosAngeles Senior Member

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    Maybe. Right now it seems that the possibilities are:

    1. The battery's self-discharging rapidly.
    2. Driving the car is not charging the 12V battery as fast as it's being drained.
    3. Charging the car is discharging the 12V battery.
    These will be easy to test.

    I'm just trying to figure an easy way to keep 12V power to the car while I break the connection to get the Fluke in there to measure the current while the car is off. Maybe I'll rig a 10-AA battery holder I have to the negative cable before I disconnect. It will have plenty of power (2Ah) to feed the electronics while I get some alligator clips in there.
     
  7. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    #2 seems implausible, since the voltage is always fine when you shut it down.

    #3, you need to measure the voltage the morning after charging, and the morning after not charging
     
  8. PiPLosAngeles

    PiPLosAngeles Senior Member

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    It's fine after being parked for 2 hours in ready mode. I don't know if it's fine after a drive. I'll check it. I have to run an errand tonight that will be about an hour of drive time. I'll take measurements before and after the drive.
     
  9. PiPLosAngeles

    PiPLosAngeles Senior Member

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    Welp, I think we have our answer. After driving just a tad under 50 miles over 90 minutes, my 12V battery lost charge. It started the trip at 12.37V and ended the trip at 12.25V. Sure enough, when the car is in park the voltage reads about 14.5V, but in drive the voltage dropped all the way to 12.6V. Just turning on the headlights drops the voltage to 11.8V.

    Something is happening to the charging system that is triggered by shifting the car into drive. I just can't figure out what.

    Can anyone else with an 18 Prime confirm the voltage drop? It doesn't seem to happen if you just start in your driveway and throw it into drive with the brake on. You have to actually drive around a bit sometimes, and then when you get home you can toggle the voltage drop back and forth between drive and park. It even works shifting between reverse and drive. No voltage drop in reverse. You don't have to go out to the battery to test it. You can see the same thing in the 12V outlets.
     
    #89 PiPLosAngeles, Jan 1, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2019
  10. PiPLosAngeles

    PiPLosAngeles Senior Member

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    OK guys, I'm about to pull the trigger on an aftermarket battery. If I'm able to get one and install it, I'll let you know how it goes.

    Is it possible to keep the 12V system energized by connecting a small battery to the jump start terminal? I don't want to lose all the settings, etc.
     
    #90 PiPLosAngeles, Jan 1, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2019
  11. padroo

    padroo Senior Member

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    Yes, a small battery should keep things powered up while you change the battery.
     
  12. PiPLosAngeles

    PiPLosAngeles Senior Member

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    Thanks. The Prime doesn't have a lug like other Prii. I'm trying to think of a good way that doesn't involve trying to keep something connected to the actual battery cables I'm trying to work with.
     
  13. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You might be overcomplicating this. :) In a conventional car, you never want to disconnect the battery while the car is running, because the battery is a necessary partner to the alternator and voltage regulator.

    In a Prius, the voltage regulation of the DC/DC converter works much more like that in a computer than that of a conventional alternator. It'll hold rock solid whether the battery's connected or not.

    So one option that preserves your settings is: make the car READY, then change the battery. :)

    However, if you do that, remember that the + battery cable, even when off of the battery, will be live. Have something like a tough plastic sack to stuff it into so it can't flop onto any metal parts, or you will make sparks, blown fuses, and possibly need a converter. (Gen 1 and Gen 2 had a handy cable connector at the + battery post that you could just unplug, and would not expose any live metal, but that ended with Gen 3, unless Gen 4 brought it back.)

    I've definitely done this in Gen 1. Gen 2, I think, may throw a code when the remote voltage sense lead is disconnected. I don't know whether the fancy Gen 4 battery sensor assembly will be more prone to complain.
     
  14. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    jumper cables from another vehicle to the battery clamps, be careful!
     
  15. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    if the charging system is suspect, why change the 12v?
     
  16. PiPLosAngeles

    PiPLosAngeles Senior Member

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    I'm trying to determine if the 12V battery is causing the issue, or if the issue is causing the 12V battery problem. Getting really tired of not being able to use any 12V accessories in the car and having to pop the hood every day to check whether my battery is dead. Plus, Toyota is clearly unwilling to work on the issue without first replacing the battery. Perhaps I should just let the battery go dead and have it towed to the dealer.
     
    #96 PiPLosAngeles, Jan 1, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2019
  17. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    just lay a wrench across the terminals :eek:
     
  18. PiPLosAngeles

    PiPLosAngeles Senior Member

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    The thought had crossed my mind, but I'm willing to bet that the car has sufficient sensors to "know" the battery was drained intentionally.
     
  19. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Auto parts stores sell a "data keeper" that plugs into the OBDII port and connects to a 12V battery when replacing the battery. But it will mean that you'll have to make sure your positive battery clamp doesn't hit ground.

    The melted battery posts might be a bit of a give away. :D Or you could just drop a metal toolbox on it and say, "Oops! I dropped my toolbox on the battery." :)
     
  20. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    I’d be worried about “collateral damage” caused by dropping a wrench across the terminals.
     
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