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Many ABS/VSC Codes, Need Advice

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Bob Oakes, Jan 22, 2017.

  1. Bob Oakes

    Bob Oakes New Member

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    Hi.

    Its a 2006 Prius, with 323,000 miles, purchased new by me in early '07.

    Recently after having no braking power and many dashboard warning lights on, I had it towed to the dealer. But in leaving my driveway the car skipped out of the tow hook, shot across the driveway and the rear bumper hit my garage. No body damage, but a solid hit.
    The dealer found the Brake Actuator needed replacing, and performed the job under the ‘Enhanced Warranty’, tested the fix and found the Actuator was running normal and that there were no issues with brake pads, calipers and wheel cylinders.

    A day after the dealer fix, before I picked the car up, the dealer had to move the car in his lot and found the dashboard warning lights reappeared.

    After days of testing, on the Dealer's dime thankfully, they found blown relays, and links in the fusible link blown. They discouraged me from further repairs saying it could be like chasing ‘ghosts’ on a high mileage car and could be expensive. So, I took the car home.

    At home I tested the 12v battery, found the battery was bad and replaced it.
    I purchased the VXDIAG-Techstream TIS Toyota software and ran the car for codes. Found a bunch. Here's the list:

    Hybrid Control
    P3138 – Collision Sensor High Input
    ABS/VSC/Traction
    C1253 - Hydro-Booster Pump Motor Relay
    C1256 - ACCumulator Low Pressure
    C1310 - HV System Malfunction
    C1311 - Open Circuit in Main Relay 1
    C1313 - Open Circuit in Main Relay 2
    C1377 - Capacitor
    C1378 - Capacitor Communication Malfunction

    Here are my questions and request for advice, please:

    *Any suggestions as to what may be causing the underlying problem and to repair it?

    *Opinion on whether its worth trying to fix a 323,000 mile car. (I sure would like to keep it going)

    *Know a good, non-dealer, Prius shop in Massachusetts, as I'm not going back to Dealer.
    Thanks.

    Prius Dash.JPG
     
    #1 Bob Oakes, Jan 22, 2017
  2. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Your post like most posts about dealer interactions makes no sense.
    The dealer fixed your car it was ready to go and they go to get it and all the lights reappear and now it needs relays and fusible links..
    I hate dealers..

    The collision sensor I believe is logged by the inverter and may have been from the tow truck f up and resultant crash. The other nags may have been logged from an almost dead 12 volt battery which you replaced.

    I recommend you clear all the codes using the vxdiag and then see what fresh codes appear as they will be the real snapshot of the cars present health given how much adventure it's seen.

    If it was me I would make sure the new 12 volt battery is ok. Measure it at the front jump points before you start the car.

    Post the fresh codes.
     
    #2 edthefox5, Jan 22, 2017
  3. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    If you are serious about repairing this problem you need to start by replacing the blown fusible link assembly and the failed relays. Once you've restored full power to the skid control ECU then you should clear the existing DTC, and see what new DTC are logged.

    It is not easy to replace the fusible link assembly which the 5" long whitish / clear plastic box within the main relay/fuse box. There are a few posts about how to do that. Typically this issue results when somebody incorrectly jumpstarts the Prius and the 100A DC/DC fusible link blows.

    P3138: the sensor mounted on the side of the inverter was triggered due to the impact. Or there is a fault in the wiring harness between that sensor and the hybrid vehicle ECU.

    If you are going to pay someone to work on this problem, you will quickly exceed the market value of this car. My guess is that the value of your car does not exceed $1,000 given the odometer reading. You can easily exceed that cost in troubleshooting time, not to mention the cost of parts.
     
    #3 Patrick Wong, Jan 22, 2017
    edthefox5 likes this.
  4. Bob Oakes

    Bob Oakes New Member

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    Thanks, Ed.

    I'll get to this in a couple of days, as I'm headed out of town, and will post codes on my return.
     
    #4 Bob Oakes, Jan 23, 2017
    edthefox5 likes this.
  5. Bob Oakes

    Bob Oakes New Member

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    Thanks Patrick.

    I now have the fusible link on order. I already have the 12v battery disconnected. Should I disconnect the hybrid battery, too, before I replace the link?
    Also, I'm not 100% sure which relays need to be replaced, can you tell which ones with the info I've supplied?
    And, will the sensor mounted on the inverter that triggered the P3138 code re-set, or will I be replacing that as well?

    I'm headed away for a few days and will write back once I have fresh data to report.

    Thanks again.
     
    #5 Bob Oakes, Jan 23, 2017
  6. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    No need to disconnect the high voltage traction battery.

    Probably ABS1 and ABS2 relays. If you have a digital multimeter and a 12V power source, you can test the relays by using the ohmmeter function to find the relay coil terminals, which should measure ~100 ohms resistance. Then apply 12VDC to those terminals to energize the relay. Measure resistance across the switched terminals, which should not exceed 0.5 ohms after accounting for resistance in the meter test leads.

    Measure the resistance across the sensor. If not close to zero ohms, you will have to replace the sensor.
     
    #6 Patrick Wong, Jan 23, 2017
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