Mechanic dispute, request for advice

Your new mechanic is conditioned to be terrified of any kind of custom work that he didn't do himself. It has kept him safe. If he isn't willing to step outside those bounds at all, then he's not the right guy to maintain your car modified with that cutoff switch.

Recover whatever you can and find a new new mechanic. To be honest I doubt there's anything wrong with the switch, just needs to be re-incorporated into the battery circuit by somebody who understands what it is and how it should work.

 

Sorry to hear about your stress and challenges during this time.

I tend to agree with Leadfoot, without even bothering to figure out what this mechanics psychology might be.

I could say more, but basically, if you're not comfortable dealing with, or happy with the work done, you have every freedom to choose a new mechanic.

Give the stress of the times, I wouldn't even bother with any escalation between yourself and this mechanic. I would just move on.
I would just seek out another mechanic. Wouldn't even bother seeking refund or replacement here.

The path of least resistance here is to just look for a new mechanic.

I have to say, warn, that maybe quite a few independent mechanics and surely dealership mechanics might be hesitant and refuse to work on an aftermarket installation or modification. They can be held liable if anything goes wrong and is traced back to that modification.

But you have right as the owner of the vehicle and as the paying customer to be comfortable and happy with your chosen mechanic. If this isn't the case....keep looking until you find another mechanic you like better.

 

try hybrid fix

 

@Jenny867

If you do end up needing to replace it, that switch was purchased at Harbor Freight, $8, but is discontinued. A new one is item 63425. A similar one is available from Grainger for about $40 but is also made in China. Made in USA models are typically $100+ range

Battery Cutoff Switch

It should be installed in the battery (-) cable circuit to ensure there's no chance of bare terminals causing problems.

The negative cable from the battery, in OEM configuration, is fastened to the rear wall of the trunk, just to the rear of the 12v battery. To install the switch, remove the fastener at the rear wall and attach the cable to one of the switch terminals. Using a wire similar to the one found in your trunk, attach one end to the other terminal of the switch and the other end to the wall where the negative cable was originally fastened. Make sure everything is tight and you're done. Switch is installed. It just doesn't get any easier than that. I would be seriously concerned about the new mechanics competency if he's unable to understand that. Actually, if he told me he needed to charge extra, I'd have likely told him to .... off.

Most likely, your new mechanic just removed the switch and new cable from the circuit, then just fastened the battery negative cable back where it belonged so it was placed back to 'factory original' condition.

 

To be honest, the first guy's solution to the problem wasn't the best.

An SAE battery connector pigtail and a small battery tender would have been a much better solution.
And that still applies.

BUT.....if the car is driven regularly, NEITHER of those things need to be done.
Your car should take care of the new battery just fine with no help at all.

 

There's a million ways to skin that cat and infinite space for debate over which solution would be best. All that matters in this case is that the OP's second mechanic refused to adopt and support the first mechanic's solution. Then in the course of troubleshooting a "no-ready" has un-done the modification that OP originally desired. That wasn't on the work order request.

I don't need to get involved in why OP wanted a cutoff switch. I already know firsthand that they're occasionally useful and have installed and used a few myself and that's good enough for me.

OP just needs a mechanic as knowledgeable about and supportive of custom electrical work as her original mechanic. This should not be hard in LA, @bisco's suggestion is worth following.

utterly savage electrical joke detected

 

Your new mechanic is trying to keep you as a customer, he doesnt have to return any money to you.

That was previous work done and he wasnt going to mess with it, it is called liability. You agreed for him to remove it and the charge.

Now you are upset about it but your car is working now so drive it.

 

There is a lot of missing info here that most likely we will never find out. Installing a battery cutoff switch is not unheard off but this is a first for me in a Prius. My opinion is that a cutoff switch is a safety mechanism not a solution for a battery drain issue, that is just sloppy work. The first mechanic, if it was a competent one, should have found the drain and fix it. The Prius has a very small capacity 12v battery so it’s bound to fail sooner than normal sized ones if the car is not driven enough. That said, the battery should have been replaced the moment she bought the car because the dealer told her it was not driven enough. Installing a cutoff switch seems to be an attempt to prolong the life of a bad battery that wouldn’t even survive the night connected. Just my two cents considering so little info.

 

@Jenny867

When the original switch was installed, where was the switch located? What did you have to do to operate it?

 

It's difficult to try and backtrace a labor estimate like that.

The answers to @TMR-JWAP's line of questions would help inform a somewhat better labor guess.

 

there have been several members here who have installed them. it's not a bad way to go for an infrequently used car, or those times when you are away, and the car is home alone.

the new mechanic sounds like a loser

 

personally I’ve installed them myself using parts from fleet farm. You can buy ones that either bolt on both the cable and battery or ones you crimp.


it is rarely worth the effort to trace a battery drain, especially when it’s “by design “
a battery disconnect is cheap insurance

 

For the second time:
Installing a battery tender connector would be a MUCH better solution to the problem,
IF you have access to power where it is parked.
MUCH BETTER.

Then......if you still have the switch in hand.....and that cable......re-installing it should take about a half hour.
The cost depends on the hourly shop labor rate.