Megan Coil overs 2006 Prius

Last weekend I installed these MR-CDK-TP03 Megan Racing - Street Series Coilovers. After shopping around I found them for $845 with free shipping at Vexmotrosports.com. Part number matches the ones from megan's site and ebay but no picture. They came quickly in one heavy box that needs a signature. My car is a 2006 with front strut bar and rear sway.



There are tons of DIY on how to replace shocks and struts. This is a bit easier since we don't have to mess with springs. In short remove all the proper bolts, take the old strut /shock assembly out then slide the new ones in. The following is a collection of install pics and notes because I couldn't find any and hope this helps someone.


Old rear vs new rear. I didn't touch the height on the rear,it came low like this. Guessing like an 2 inch drop.


On the rears it came with an washer so I took out the factory washer. Wasn't sure where the new one goes at first. This picture is WRONG, the washer should go on the inside or else the bottom cylinder part hits. The washer goes on the inside then and bolt on the outside. I used PB blaster to help loosen bolts and a propane touch. Trunk and rear seats need to be removed to get to two top bolts.


Installed right rear. Should be labeled right side. If you get mixed up match up all the mounts on the old one vs the new one.

Old one pulled out.


Rear lowered only


Time for Fronts


You have to remove the wiper assembly to get to the top bolts.



Don't forget to remove the brake cables.


Just to compare old vs new.







Fronts were still high so had to adjust per the included instructions. In short loosen the bottom black locking nut, move up to go lower then turn the top red locking nut the opposite direction. After a few turns I just started moving the whole things by hand until the bottom black lock nut hits the silver lower part. Measure the gap and make the gap on the other side the same.




Left the wipers off so I could double check nuts and adjust damper. There are instructions on damper too. In short loose the top bolt then turn all the way right then go way left. Start adjusting from there. Mine are currently in the center. Then readjust after that to your preference.





Rears gap.


Fronts... Thinking of going lower.


After this my alignment was way off. Needed an camber bolt and rear shim to adjust at the thrid place I took it. First two didn't want to work on a lowered car. One claimed it's because the height won't show right on their machine. No issues scraping getting on the rack. I did not need to roll the fenders with stock tires but may soon just to prep for future projects.

 

I have metal clunking sounds coming fro the rear now. Happens almost every morning coming out of the driveway which has a small incline. Other times at random. Been double checking all the nuts and bolts every couple of days since I still have the trunk apart,etc. I pulled out the dampener adjuster and checked that nut with an 17mm and 5 allen wrench. I double checked the adjustment rings last night and they took one more turn on tightening. I sprayed lube all over the tops and bottoms of the rears. Still happens. Going to try tightening the adjuster rings again with the wheel off and more lube.

Thought something was wrong with the rears like they weren't compressing correctly. Turns out this only happened over a large wide speed bump at work. Stopped on top of the bump and sure enough I'm bottoming out on it. Hits my Rude person's bar then frame it looks like. Guess I'll have to take them at an angle from now on.



When I had just the rears done I took the car for a spin and it scared me! Actually though I got air taking a corner uphill. With all four in,It's super easy to make the tires skirt now. It can do doughnuts now.lol. It's like floating on butter with coil overs and you get used to taking corners almost twice as fast as you used to. I do slide a bit more so have to be careful in rain or snow. Been keeping track of my MPG and it looks like it went up but still need put my subs in and trunk back together to get a better reading.

 

Clank sound I get backing out the driveway.

 

Looks like it can go one inch lower due to the spacing between the adjustment rings.. I'll have to mess with it again when I get new tires and or hopefully larger rims and tires.

 

Sound is still there in the rear. Defiantly the spring. I loosened all top bolts on the passenger rear then used white lithium grease all over in the gaps then it got quieter for a few days. A week later or so on Saturday I did both sides. Sunday I was attempting to roll my fenders and when jacking the car up it made the same pop sound.

 

Sound is still there in the rear. Defiantly the spring. I loosened all top bolts on the passenger rear then used white lithium grease all over in the gaps then it got quieter for a few days. Made sure all was tight. A week later or so on Saturday I did both sides. Sunday I was attempting to roll my fenders and when jacking the car up it made the same pop sound. What else can I do?

 

Thats what I keep coming back to but worry about touching. Would I need to get another alignment if I were to pull the rear shocks out?

Was also looking at or the ones that wrap around the coil.Going to try some other type of grease and not white lithium too,.

 

Took the shocks apart and got real grease that goes in a grease gun. Got a little better. Next day a buddy and I re-tightened everything,sound got worse on both side and rode crappier. Adjusted the preload tighter and driver side is all good, passenger still pops. Here is a quick video I made before loosening up the passenger coil over. Wonder if I need to make the preload tighter. Rides much better now,still makes noise.