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Motor Inspection

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Kentucky Gen2, Sep 11, 2018.

  1. Kentucky Gen2

    Kentucky Gen2 Junior Member

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    2008 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Hello, I’ve really enjoyed this site for several years and now actually have a question. I have searched the stickies, pages, and other areas and can’t find an answer. If I missed something, I apologize in advance for the duplicate.

    Background: I have a 2007 with 185k, it was purchased a year ago with a salvage title and had 170k at the time. No idea on mx history, but it looks to have been minimal/poor. Upon purchase, I immediately changed ICE oil/filter and has been run with 5W-30 synthetic since at 5k intervals. I also changed CVT fluid, ICE and Hybrid coolant, plugs, cabin air filter, ICE air filter, belt, oil pan (dented), 12V battery, shocks, and brakes. Car has only gotten 35-38 MPG since purchase. My 2008 gets much better than that, but it’s been maintained much better. I don’t always run top tier gas, but do add Techron every oil change.

    Over the past year I have had to change the following due to codes and other failures:

    ICE water pump
    Hybrid pump
    VVT control & filter
    O2 sensor
    A/F sensor
    Clean MAF
    Clean throttle body

    A couple weeks ago I got the red triangle and a bunch of lights. I pulled over and the PCV hose had split and dumped oil. The engine had no oil showing on the dipstick. I was in BFE, only had one quart in the car, so I put it in and limped home. No idea how long the ICE was without oil. Got home, changed the PCV and hose. Topped off the oil, ran the engine for about 10 minutes and then did an oil/filter change. Been fine since then until last weekend. Now it is making a terrible knocking noise. I can’t get the file of the noise to attach. Sounds like it’s coming from the lower end, but then again it’s hard to tell. Pulled plugs, and all looked fine. Only code is 420 for cat converter. The hybrid battery is staying on the low end, 2-3 bars. Pulled VVT and filter, they looked good. Without codes, I was just guessing/hoping it was misfire and ordered new injectors and coils. Installed injectors today and noise remains. Coils have not arrived. Pulled valve cover today to check for obvious signs on top end. Nothing looked bad and timing chain is slightly loose on top, I did not measure. Rotated ICE by hand and everything worked as it should. While rotating ICE by hand, I did not feel anything binding or grinding and nothing sounded “bad”. I looked for markings on the chain and gears, but did not find any. How do I locate TDC to make sure it hasn’t jumped time?

    Here’s my next step, and where I need help please. I drained the oil today and ran a magnet in it, didn’t pick up anything and the oil felt fine. Should I drop the oil pan and look for damage? Is there a way to inspect the main bearings from the bottom with the pan removed? Could a bad knock sensor (without a code) be causing it? Without codes, I’m assuming it’s mechanical and not something monitored.

    Sorry for the long post, just wanted to provide as much info as possible. Thank you in advance for any help and advice.
     
  2. Kentucky Gen2

    Kentucky Gen2 Junior Member

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    After doing some more checking, I think I’ll just swap out the motor. I can get a used one, with 70k, for $200.
     
  3. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    great idea! all the best(y)
     
  4. ETC(SS)

    ETC(SS) The OTHER One Percenter.....

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  5. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Yeah, I think you should be able to check the bottom end with the oil pan off, but I haven't had it apart myself, so that's theoretical on my part. However, from your description of the sound and the events leading up to it, my guess would be a connection rod bearing. If the bearing had too much wear, but hadn't worn all the way to the crankshaft, there wouldn't be anything ferrous for your magnet to pick up. But I think you would have bearing material in the oil filter and might also find it after draining the oil.
     
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  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    It has a two-part oil pan. The part you can easily remove won't show you much. And the upper part can't be removed while attached to the tranny, and requires a new main seal to be pressed in after reassembly, so the flywheel has to be off.

    No points for easy bottom-end access on this engine....

    -Chap
     
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  7. Kentucky Gen2

    Kentucky Gen2 Junior Member

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    Thanks everyone. Seems to me that all things considered it may just be cheaper and easier in the long run to replace the motor. The motor I’m looking at has 73k. While the motor is out is it advisable to change the timing chain?