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Multiple Codes: Is it the HV Battery or something else?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Surferjack, Apr 10, 2017.

  1. Surferjack

    Surferjack Junior Member

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    I have an '06 with 181K miles. Had no problems until the day we bought our new Prius Prime (well, a couple of weeks later really).
    1) First the engine malfunction light came on (only). A scan at Autozone said it was the gas cap. Replaced it. Light was not cleared
    2) Drove the car about 800 miles. I removed the 12v (-) battery cable and cleared the light.
    3) Drove the car around town about 6 more miles then right at the house ALL the
    lights came on. Managed to squeek into our parking place on electric before battery was depleted.
    4) Have the triangle, antiskid, tpms, abs, parking brake, and air bag lights on as well as a flashing gas gauge light (gas tank is full) plus the hybrid malfunction light on the mfd. Car will not go into "D" or "R"
    5) Disconnected the 12v battery again, didn't help anything. Voltage was about 11.9 v, put it on a charger overnight, Didn't help at all. Note, this is the original 12v battery and Traction battery.
    6) With a Techstream I was able to get the following.

    ***Codes: P3000-123, U0100-211 and U0100-530, C1259, C1310, and B1412
    Fourteen HV cells range from a low of 14.76 to a high of 14.84 volts

    7) Also today i got the message (on mfd) "There is a problem with the trans P lock mechanism. Park your car on a flat surface and fully apply your parking brake" That went away and have not seen it since.
    8) Cleared the codes, disconnected the 12v again. Didn't do anything, just sitting by the side of the house, maybe saying "This will teach you to get a new Prius"! I'm now calling her "Christine" from the movie.

    Hoping you guys can give me a clue as to what needs to be done to get my unhappy Gen 2 back on the road. It has been sitting idle for about 3 weeks now. Techstream Screen grabs available.
    Thanks in advance for any insights.
     
  2. JimboPalmer

    JimboPalmer Tsar of all the Rushers

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    Location:
    Greenwood MS USA
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius v wagon
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    Three
    amazon.com/ACDelco-ACDB24R-Advantage-Automotive-Battery/dp/B010GKJ8F6
    amazon.com/dp/B006VFEJJQ/ref=psdc_15719921_t1_B010GKJ8F6

    Once you have reliable 12 volt power, you can begin to diagnose other issues.
     
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  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Vehicle:
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    Model:
    IV


    I don't have all those codes memorized. The Uxxxx codes generally indicate problems in communication networks between ECUs ... could result from wiring damage, connector corrosion, or (often) aftermarket gadgets plugged into the car spamming the networks with unexpected signals, if you might have any of those in the picture. C1259 is just a code from the brake computer reporting that the hybrid-control computer has told it there is an issue there. C1310 reminds me of a brake system code, but don't quote me on it.

    You say you have Techstream screenshots. That information would be helpful (not that you have to post the images ... you can just transcribe the specifics ... Techstream will show you which ECU each of those codes came from, and that helps you find the right section of the manual to read more about them. Techstream generally also gives you a little one-liner summary of what each code means, though it's rarely detailed enough to conclude what's going on without looking it up in the manual (and sometimes it's just plain inscrutable).

    Sometimes people see a collection of codes and conclude the car must be crazy and reporting things randomly. If you avoid that trap, you can find it even helps you because by the time you've checked the manual for the actual conditions that trigger each code, and started to reason out a picture that accounts for all of them, an explanation starts to fall into place.

    If you look up the information and it doesn't explain itself to you right away, you can always add it here and get more heads working on it.

    -Chap
     
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  4. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Note, this is the original 12v battery

    In a 2006? Yikes. I wouldn't immediately invest in a new battery, but I'd disconnect the neg cable on that battery and hook a known good battery up at the jump connection, put it through a few start cycles and see if that cures the faults.
     
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  5. Surferjack

    Surferjack Junior Member

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    Here's the follow-up on my post. The 12v battery was the original, mfg in July of 2005, so almost 12 years old. It was hard to believe that an auto battery could last that long even without being used for cranking. I replaced it with an Optima (JIS terminals), fit right in. Cleared the codes but they came right back so I started looking at the fuses and sure enough, the EFI 15 amp fuse was blown. Replaced the fuse, cycled the on/off a few times and the ICE kicked right in and all the warning lights cleared. Hallelujah, and it was Easter Sunday too! "Christine" rose from the dead!

    Any thoughts on why the EFI fuse blew to begin with? I bought a 10 pack just in case.
     
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  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    That was likely the problem all along. It blew for the same reason any fuse blows: somewhere in the wiring downstream of it, or in one of the electrical parts connected to that wiring, there's a fault. If it's intermittent, it might not happen again for a while.

    Troubleshooting it is just the usual drill; make sure you have a multimeter, and know where to look up the wiring diagrams to see just what is downstream of that fuse and where in the car, and strategically pick what to test in what order to best divide and conquer the possibilities.

    There's a tool called Fuse Buddy that you can plug in place of the fuse (the fuse then plugs into it, so you still have protection) and measure the current flowing in the circuit. I find its shoulders are a little too wide to get into all the fuse slots in the underdash panel, anyway, but I think I'll be able to successfully trim mine down; the metal inside doesn't take up the whole space.

    A fuse can blow either because of an overload (somewhat above the fuse rating over a period of time) or a short (some usually intermittent issue where some bared wire can touch a ground and conduct very high current, blowing the fuse very quickly). Sometimes you can tell by looking at the fuse whether it melted peacefully, or splattered its insides with molten metal.

    With a meter connected to a Fuse Buddy, you can go through and grab sections of the wire harness and shake them, etc., to see if you detect an excess current. For more money than the fuse buddy, there are even gizmos that will self-limit the fault current when you shake the right spot, and just sound a honk so you know it.

    If there are things with motors on that circuit, I've seen motors that use brushes go bad in a way that intermittently blows fuses. Carbon dust worn off the brushes can pack into the gaps in the commutator, until eventually it makes a conductive path right from one brush to the other, and when the motor stopped in that position, poof goes the fuse the next time it wants to start.

    Again, first a look at the wiring diagram would give a good overview of what all kinds of things are served by that circuit.

    -Chap
     
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  7. Surferjack

    Surferjack Junior Member

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    Thanks to all you "Fuse Buddies" out there for the help! Jack
     
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