Multiple Issues with 2005 Gen II Prius - Need Guidance

Afternoon all,

I've had the car for a few years now - Wow, maybe 5 years. it has had intermittent issues but nothing really major until now. I'll run through my stuff.

Ongoing - not big deal to me so far
1. Triangle of Death with the headlight leveler (HIDs) - I know I can fix this myself, it is intermittent, not a biggie to me.
2. Passenger Headlight blinking out - I was going to try a new bulb, but haven't yet. I know this might not fix it, but I will just flip on and off If I get pulled over and ask the policeman "what headlight out?" and agree to fix it if pressed
3. The fresh/recirc flap behind the glovebox making a constant noise of movement if in fresh mode. I know this is a known issue as well, and I just ignore it or if radio not on, flip it to recirc.
4. Water pump for gas engine had to be replaced - had it done at dealer

Now the new stuff:
5. Had the Speedo display quit and the car not want to turn off - Was finally able to get it off and it hasn't repeated. I know replacement of the dash display is supposed to fix this
6. SmartKey acting up - both my fob and wife's - it sometimes will not want to lock with either the fob or using the buttons on door/trunk. I hear it lock and immediately unlock with no beep. I can usually fiddle with it, unlocking and locking a few times to get it to lock. Unlock seems to work fine. Sometimes it will lock, then unlock and still beep as if it isn't getting the message that is locked fast enough or something - like "lock/unlock/lock beep" - sort of all at the same time. It sucks and is weird and frustrating.
7. The A/C quit on me the other day. Was fine, went to a funeral, came out and hot air blowing from vents. Fan blows fine, MFD seems to be working ok. I haven't checked pressure in lines yet, but compressor is not running, and I am aware it is electric.

My battery went dead at the airport one time and then a light got left on at the house once and the battery was kaput. I can't recall exactly, but the speedo blanking out was around this same time and I think caused me to replace the battery, suspecting an issue with it perhaps being the cause. Seeing as how the Prius battery at batteries plus was like $180, I replaced it with a lawn and garden battery that I properly vented and it has been doing fine. Reading 13.9 Volts according to the MFD diagnostic and my multimeter, so I don't think the battery is the issue.

I pulled the DTCs from the car using method found on youtube, and did the HVAC diagnostics. Will attach.

The HVAC diag blinked a "21, 23, 43" - which is solar sensor, pressure switch, and air outlet control servo motor (although all have "AC Amplifier" as the last item in the culprit list.

The car has been well maintained and is not a piece of junk by any means. Has around 130,000 miles on it. I'm just frustrated by the rash of problems that have not been my experience with Toyota's prior to this vehicle. It is frustrating to have these types of issues with a Toyota as I have come to expect better.

What do you guys think I should do FIRST. Trying to avoid taking to dealer as I loathe them.

 

Thanks for your reply!! haven't checked 12 volt in the AM. But I will.

And I should have clarified - my main concern right now is the doggone AC! It's about to get hot here in North MS! I just thought perhaps all these items could be related or point to one specific module or part based on experience on these forums.

I was thinking of getting an AC amplifier to swap since it is fairly easy to change and I can resell easily. Just seems to be a lot of funky electronic gremlins other than the AC quitting.

 

I have no idea of the AmpHr rating - It is this one:
SLIU1XHD Duracell Ultra Heavy Duty Battery - Rhino 650 - Yamaha - ATV - Batteries Plus

comparable to this one:

Super Start Lawn & Garden U1LUH - Lawn & Garden Battery | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Based on what I can find, perhaps 35 AmpHrs.

 

I would think the amphours would only come into play if I were to boot the car and then sit for a period of time without going anywhere, or go through a long period of coasting without engaging the ICE, and letting the battery run the 12 volt accessories without any energizing from the traction pack.

I may be wrong, and I realize the prius was designed with a certain battery in mind, but I believe I have read users on this forum utilizing similar battery setups. I was just going to be aware of my usage so as to not get in a situation where they deep cycle capacity of the battery would come into play.

 

Do you guys think the non-prius battery could be causing this? I will check the battery this afternoon after sitting all day. My wife has been driving to gym in the morning (since it is cool), but it will have sat all day.

additionally, I was thinking of just going ahead and trying an AC amplifier (salvage part) to see if it resolves AC issue. Can always resell if it stays the same.

Thoughts? Comments?

And thanks so much!

 

Updates:
1. Determined the door lock issue is caused by the driver door lock servo not quite being strong enough to lock the door completely, which is why after a few tries, it will lock sometimes. If I lock that door manually when I get out, close and then lock with fob all is fine. So not an electrical issue per se. Not a big deal.

2. Battery shows 12.4 volts after sitting. i think the battery is healthy and is not causing any problems.

3. Swapped the AC amplifier and still have no AC. It is now showing 21 and 23 - the 43 code went away. This has me bummed as I was hoping this was it.

Any recommendations on what to do next? I was going to run through the AC troubleshooting, specifically checking the connections on the back of the AC amplifier as shown in the manual with a multi meter. I have no way of testing to see if there is freon in the system right now. There would be no pressure showing anyway without the compressor running, right? I never had an event where freon would have leaked out that I know of. The compressor should come on when called anyway, and then would shut down if pressure switch didn't indicate pressure rise, right?

Just not sure what path to take now.
Thanks all!!

Tom

 

Oh also, I've checked the fuses by driver's feet. I unplugged and replugged the relays above the motor. Didn't mess with anything in the big panel on driver's fender. Which specific fuses or relays do I need to make sure are working?

 

The code 21 went away - realized I was parked in shade so moved to sun and it is gone now.

Ok so using the service manual, I jumpered terminals 1 and 4 on the pressure switch, turned it on and the compressor started humming, but didn't cool. I think I am low on freon or all the freon leaked out.

Anybody know where I can get freon that already has the ND11 oil in it?

 

Could I just use R134A with no additives? Or does it have to be the kind with hybrid oil in it?

 

I ordered the interdynamics hybrid r134a from amazon. I realize I most likely have a leak, but perhaps my amplifier was bad (only code shown now is the 23 for the pressure switch) and overpressurized causing it to vent out. I had that happen with our odyssey when a relay stuck closed. If it does leak down, I'm only out 22 bucks and hopefully will indicate the source of the leak.

 

Thank you very much!
So this Mini VCI (I assume I need to look it up on here) is different from a regular code reader?

I have the service manuals that I found someone in google docs. Have been using, and what I used to jumper the pressure switch to determine compressor was good.

OK, on the r134a. I wasn't sure about that as some folks were saying you would probably lose a couple ounces of oil with a leak, plus if it is low in the line or out of compressor itself, it might drain out, BUT I also read there was an oil separator in the compressor. My feeling was the risk of adding a couple ounces of oil from the interdynamics with hybrid oil would be outweighed by the insurance of adding some if it ALL drained out from a leak low in the system.

Will use one with a low pressure gauge. Was going to get the whole manifold, but is overkill for me right now. Will combine low pressure gauge with a thermometer in vent. Hopefully if leaking I can detect it and it is in an easily identifiable are.