Multiple warning symbols, car won't go to "Ready" for starting

Thursday afternoon I drove about 120 miles total in my 2004. At about 40 miles I left my wife to shop and drove on to 3-4 other stops for myself and then came back to pick her up for the 40 mile drive home. When she got into the passenger seat, she found that the carpet & mat on the floor were sopping wet, so we put some heavy towels over the wet area to protect her shoes. When we got home (with NO operational issues), I removed the passenger floor mat, put several thicknesses of more heavy towels on the carpet and placed 2 concrete blocks on the towels to soak up the water. On Friday, I changed the towels and did not use the car. Saturday, I removed the towels, concrete blocks, and went to start the car so I could see if there was water dripping from under the dash from a plugged condensate drain, since I had not driven in rain or water on Thursday. The dash displayed every warning light imaginable including "check engine", hybrid system warning, slip indicator, brake system warning, Master warning (!), VSC, Maint reqd. Now it is Sunday and I still cannot get to the "Ready" light so I can start the car. My traction battery condition was solid green yesterday, solid blue today. The radio, interior lights, A/C fan, door locks, etc. all work.
Could there be anything under the passenger carpeting (or behind the dash which might have gotten wet which could be causing these problems/codes?

 

There are no stored codes according to my Scanguage II. The Optima battery is about 5 years old, but accessories wouldn't work if it was bad, and they are fine. I know that a plugged condensate line would not in itself cause any problems/codes, but I thought that something hidden might have gotten wet.

 

Thanks to ALL who have posted suggestions/questions.
My 12V Optima tests 12V on the terminals AND at the jump point in the fuse box. Remember, this car has not been started/charged since I shut it off Thursday evening, so I would think that it could drop a bit in nearly 4 days of inactivity other than me turning on the radio and A/C & fan. It has NOT gone down anymore since I checked it Sunday PM. I also connected a fully charged (12V) Cobra Jumpack) at the jump point this morning and I am still getting all the error symbols. There were NO spilled liquids in the passenger foot well. There is no sign of moisture in the tire well, hatch, the 12V battery area, or UNDER the passenger seat. There is no corrosion on the 12V terminals. I have NOT yet removed the 12V for a load test, but have just connected a 2 Amp charger to the12V battery to see if it will go above 12V. The information screen shows the SOC for the traction battery to be 6 blue bars. Saturday PM it was 7 bars of green. The car has 79,800K miles.

 

Update!!!
I had the battery tested at an auto supply store and their test machine showed "slightly low charge", so they put it on their bigger machine which charged the battery for one hour, then load tested it. It ended up with a 12V charge(reading) and passed the load testing. Re-installed in my Prius and everything is still the same: lots of error symbols, no "Ready" choice. Any more ideas?

 

UPDATE: After replacing the aux. battery and trying every other suggestion, I searched for a company which could service the traction battery at my home. I found one in Orlando, about 100 miles away. They had a flat price to remove the traction battery, test the aux. battery (which was good), test all modules and attached computer, replace any corroded buss bars, bad modules, and/or attached computer, all for $1295. Their service tech arrived at the appointed time the next day and was blindingly fast! He removed the rear seats to access the battery, removed the battery, computer, and buss bars, tested each module (all were good). He showed me corrosion & "burn" discoloring on the buss bars and computer, replaced the offending buss bars and the computer, reassembled everything (with the assurance that he didn't need to test for operation before reassembling because he was confident that it would work) and, in 35 minutes total, all was reassembled, all trouble lights were gone, and the car instantly started. He force charged the traction battery in Drive with his foot on the brake, which took a minute or so since there was a pretty good charge from when my problems began. I have since driven some 400 miles with no issues. The repairs are guaranteed one year. I could have saved $250 by going with a six month guarantee, but am awaiting an on order Tesla and decided to opt for a guarantee which might correspond with my hoped for delivery of the Tesla.

BTW: I pulled the condensate drain hose up out of the floor and blew it out with a compressor several times. The first time resulted in a RUSH of dirty water/debris. Subsequent air applications have not resulted in much or any water, even after driving several miles. I have now driven over 400 miles, so I may drive a few miles and blow it out again. I may even crush a "Pro-Treat" or Sludgebuster condensate pan treatment tablet and blow the resulting powder up into the condensate pan/evaporator coil to retard algae growth.

Thanks for all who offered suggestions. For those in the Southeast US, the company I used is: Hybridbatteryexperts.com. Ph:1.855.522-8837.

 

Having the guarantee, which was verified as being generous by another of their customers, made it worth not having to ship, install, and ship back my old battery to a re-builder like Dorman in another state was worth it to me. Besides, watching this ambidextrous technician work 2 cordless drill/drivers with different sized sockets simultaneously to disassemble/reassemble everything in such short order was very impressive & entertaining. Obviously, he had done this many, many times over the 7+ years he has been doing it and could probably do it all blindfolded. BTW, all my modules tested 7.82-7.85 volts after being idle for over a week, which I thought was pretty good.