my 2012 Prius throw some codes after Oil catch can install

Map/Maf sensor cleaner cleaner. Or rubbing alcohol. Do not use brake or carb cleaner!

 

Your pcv hose is correct.

 

Are you sure all of your connections are leak free? Hose connections tight?

I am assembling all fittings, especially the ones at the catch can, using Rector Seal Tru Blu thread sealant. I saw some reviews on Amazon that the catch can fittings can be leaky and cause vacuum leaks.

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My oil catch can did not come with an o-ring seal on the "dipstick." I installed a Viton ring on mine.

 

Do you know the size of the o-rings you used? For now, I just put thread seal on the dipstick threads.

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I picked it out of a kit that I got from Harbor Freight. I guess its ID is 2.9mm or size A006,

 

One thing royally bugs me about @NutzAboutBolts intake manifold removal video: there is NO reason to disconnect the throttle body coolant lines. They have lots of slack, enough that you can lift the throttle body off (with coolant lines still attached) and tie it with twine or bungee cord, to something out of the way, say the wiring conduit running down the side of the inverter.

 

There’s a thread here on oil catch cans, linked in the EGR info link in my signature. What a lot do is cut the orig PCV at the middle, push on barb splicers* and run 3/8” ID fuel line to the can (various mounting loc’s). A replacement hose (if you ever want to restore to stock) is readily available and about $10 through dealership parts dept.

* I mounted my barb splicers in a drill press, and “slightly” blunted the sharp edges, just in case I want to remove later, say to revise. Some have also used PEX splicers, which I think are a little easier in that regard.

 

P0108 is MAP Sensor. You probably didn’t plug it back in. Go check. That should fix everything.

 

P0108 is MAP Sensor. You probably didn’t plug it back in. Go check. That should fix everything.

 

P0108 is MAP Sensor. You probably didn’t plug it back in. Go check. That should fix everything.

Ok, this is ridiculous, Tapatalk….

 

Finally got to removing and cleaning the intake manifold and installing an oil catch can yesterday. Mileage on our Prius is at 124k miles. I also relocated the PCV valve from its stock location to after the oil catch can, before going to the intake manifold. Hopefully, that will keep the intake cleaner. In theory, the PCV valve will pass less oily vapor since it's after the catch can and it's also mounted vertically. Any oil condensing in the tubing before the PCV valve will run down into the catch can.

The EGR pipe was only about 20-30% occluded with oily soot/carbon.

The EGR passages in the intake manifold were maybe 60/70% occluded on a few of the small passages at the intake ports.

I was able to clean out the small passages pretty good with the drinking straw brushes, glad I got them.

But the brush that really removed a lot of the funk through the main EGR inlet in the manifold was a refrigerator coil cleaning brush I picked up from Wal-Mart. It was kind of tough to get it down, all the way through, but it just reached all the way to the end, and I believe that the wider width at the top of the brush was able to clean even better. I had to use a twisting motion when inserting and removing the brush because it was a tight fit.

Also, I started out using brake parts cleaner spray, but found that the Simple Green Pro HD cleaner at full strength was more effective at removing the oily funk.

Unfortunately, the use of the Simple Green cleaner/degreaser meant that I had to use a lot of water to rinse the manifold out. I don't have an air compressor to blow out the passages, so I think there may have been some water left in the intake manifold.

When I started the car, there was a light tapping sound, like one of the fittings was vibrating against something. Then the tapping proceeded to get to a knocking sound, that got heavier, and then the engine started to run rough and shake pretty good. Stopped the engine at that point and was going to tear down everything and recheck all the connections and harness plugs. But through all that, there weren't any dashboard error lights or anything.

So I fired up the car again and after a bit of light knocking, the knocking/tapping went away. Went for a test drive, made sure the car was warmed up fully, and even took it on the freeway.

Everything seems to be OK.

I'm going to repeat the process on our two other cars, but next time, I think I will try to do a final rinse with some rubbing alcohol to try to get as much water out as possible, then hopefully the alcohol will dry out better than the water would inside the intake passages.

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Leaving intake manifold in full sun in driveway (if possible), flipping over occasionally, would bake out the water. Have a leaf blower? Hang onto it while blowing lol.

broken record tip: after using caustic cleaner, rinse like crazy, dry thoroughly, and spritz all embedded metal pieces with WD40 or sim, to avoid corrosion.

 

Hmm, no leaf blower, maybe I'll connect my vacuum hose to the outlet port on my shop vac and blow air through that way. It'll be slightly warmed from the motor too.

Also, my wife's hairdryer could come in handy.

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I've been there, used Oxi-Clean on the intake (also mildy caustic), and was subsequently getting white crusties on intake manifold hold-down bolts, the throttle body hold-down studs, and the intake manifold embeds themselves blackened a bit, and looked crusty.

Like you, I'd guess the engine's coughing fit was water/cleaner residue.

You still need to tackle the EGR valve/cooler?

 

Yes, the spare EGR cooler is filled and soaking with straight dual hydroxide drain cleaner (lye). Been like that for a days now, and still getting brown effluent when filled with hot water and dumped out.

For the most part, it's shiny clean inside. I think it is a few passages on the sides where I wasn't able to muscle a wire through the carbon deposits.

My OCD is making me clean it out till the hot water flushes runs clear lol.



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Careful with the hairdryer. It might melt the plastic, even though it’s temp rated.