My 2013 Uber vehicle died after making a loud noise.

Discussion in 'Prius v Main Forum' started by gromittoo, Oct 8, 2021.

  1. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    Boy, with the stock air-box and air-intake snorkel nixed, you've got enough room to swing the (proverbial) cat in there. And yeah, those clamps are much gentler on hose.

    I tried ordering some (of that clamp style) once, but had some issues sizing them. I should have done more research: the diameter range on the ones I got resulted in clamping that was barely adequate. Also, installing them required pulling hoses off first, which can be a royal pain with barb connectors.

    I've read (in the tips section of this site: https://www.new-line.com/ ) that hoses are not needed with barb connectors, as long as everything's sized properly, so ran with that. Keeps the install very neat/compact.
     
    #81 Mendel Leisk, Oct 13, 2021
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2021
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  2. gromittoo

    gromittoo Active Member

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    I was thinking the engine compartment would be a great place to store a Jump box. It would be especially nice if it was a jump box that can be kept "topped off" with 12 volts, and close to the 12 volt jump point. My 8 year old 12 volt battery hasn't given me trouble, yet.

    I was thinking of getting one of these for $40:


    Search for Amazon ID B08GYH85CR if link does not show up above:

    This box can charge from 12 volts, has a flashlight, USB charge ports. If I didn't do Uber, I would:
    - Convert the 12 volt Cigarette lighter Aux outlet in the cargo area to always on with a 20 Amp fuse.
    - Figure out where to mount the adapter high easily accessible from the back seat, while plugged into that aux outlet
    - Create an adapter that would take the output of the jump box, to a male Cigarette lighter plug.

    1) The jump box would be kept topped off by always having its input connected to 12 volts.
    2) When a jump of my battery is needed, I would unplug the jump box from the always on Aux Power outlet.
    3) I would then take my male 12volt plug adapter I made, plug the output of the jump box into put aux outlet to boost the ailing 12 volt battery.

    I said I would not do this as an Uber driver, because the booster might get lifted by a passenger. That is why I like storing it in the engine compartment.
     
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    Jump packs don't need constant top up though, they're pretty much isolated when not used. I carry a Clore JNC660 in the large plastic tray under the hatch floor (on our 2010 hatchback), lots of room there. Funny thing: I've never needed it for our car. So far, knock on wood...
     
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  4. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    Yeah, I like the K&N filter, because there is no way any rodent can enter the air intake. Here's a photo of my friend in Florida that I helped him fabricate.
    https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/collections/hps-performance-air-intake-kit/products/hps-shortram-cold-air-intake-kit-11-17-lexus-ct200h-827-502
     
  5. gromittoo

    gromittoo Active Member

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    Of course the tray in the hatch is the least convenient place for it to be in the case of a dead 12Volt battery, as the hatch cannot be opened without 12 volts. Getting to that tray is really a pain from the inside.

    I discovered this the hard way. I was swapping some steering wheel switches, and I had disconnected the battery because of the airbag. Then I closed the hatch lid. Climbing in from the back seat is no fun. Fortunately, floor of the cargo area was already pulled back, and the battery was almost exposed. All I had to do was to get the negative battery terminal back on. I then got out, opened the hatch, and tightened the battery terminal from a comfortable stance. There is a way to open the hatch from the inside, but I never was able to do it myself.

    I have rethought where I would store a jump box. That particular one has a window break tool in it, and having it near the driver seat makes sense. It also comes in handy for giving jumps to other people. I have had an Uber request to take passengers to a car that needed a jump. I was unable to perform the jump.
     
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  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    Yeah under one of the front seats is a good choice. (y)

    I was thinking about that egress too: nice little room under the air filter, sheltered and warmed (when the engine's run). I put 1/4" rodent mesh on the end of the intake snorkel. (y)
     
  7. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    You don't want to store the Lithium-Ion jump pack in the engine compartment. The heat of the engine will damage and likely discharge the batteries.

    Only lead-acid batteries need to be "topped off." Connecting a lithium-ion battery to charge continuously would shorten it's life appreciably.

    The best option would be to charge the jump pack through the front lighter outlet. The jump pack has a LED gauge that tell what the state of the charge is.

    The jump pace comes with one way diodes that only allow the current to the clips work in the correct polarity. It will not receive a charge that would come from the car's charging system or the 12 volt battery.

    In my case, I have a cable with lugs attached directly to the battery terminals with the connector to the jump pack coming out of the edge of the carpet.

    jumper cable on Prius V.JPG

    When the battery died, all I did was to flip the back seat down, plug in the jump pack, went back to the driver's seat, started the car and drove it home.

    No damage can occur to the jump pack, because the diodes in the line would not allow any charging current or current from the battery to go to the jump pack.

    Here is a photo of that cable;

    EC5 lugged cable.jpg
     
    #87 Georgina Rudkus, Oct 13, 2021
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2021
  8. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    Nice thing is that this one uses the universal EC-5 connector.



    Gromittoo, it might be a good choice.
     
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  9. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    I haven't seen this thread since the middle of pg 1 at which point I could think of anything constructive to add.
    I took a look at the jump pack and got sidetracked into my batteries projects of which 2 are being worked on ATM. I have a couple others on the backburners as well. I was going to comment of that before I read through the other posts in this thread including the trip to Ithaca a couple weeks ago.
    This may be way off since it's about an 02 Civic EGR
    I did an EGR valve and pass ages, cleaning the pass ages with the engine running.
    A month later I got 2 new Evap codes The EGR valve sticking again and the new code for the Canister shut valve. I ordered the shut valve. Than had to get a new canister cause I couldn't remove the valve from the canister without mangling both.
     
  10. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    Oh yeah, another possible bust on being helpful as I don't have personal experience with the details and is only what I thought from looking up the B1000 code using google instead of my default search site.
    I got a lot of hits for Toyota B1000/31 and if you take a look back at the post that showed all the subcodes
    ( was that site B1000 Code Electronic Control Unit ) ?
    subcode 31 says a general checksum error.
    Again, no personal experience other than reading posts of Honda Can Bus reverse engineering types
    From what I've gathered, the checksums are part of the communication protocols used on the CanBus to verify communication data between ECU's.
    edit: keeping in mind there's really no substitute for techstream and your specific models repair manual for diagnosing the codes your car shows.
     
    #90 vvillovv, Oct 14, 2021
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2021
  11. gromittoo

    gromittoo Active Member

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    I pulled the B1000 code using Torque Pro and a cheap Bluetooth adapter I keep in the car. It was an "Active Fault" not a historic fault. Torque Pro did not list a subcode (and there are probably 60+ possible subcodes), just B1000. Not sure why you focused on subcode 31, as the loud bag just prior to the car becoming a brick was highly unusual, so assuming that the most common code would apply does not seem reasonable. The dealer did determine that there was a disconnected hose, a communication checksum would have been a wild goose chase.

    I was dead on the road, so Techstream and access to a tech manual was simply not an option. If I had my laptop and Techstream Cable with me, I could have gotten better info. I could have had the car towed home, but if I then decided the car needed to go to the dealer, AAA would charge me for that tow. It made financial sense to tow directly to the dealer.

    These are the lights I had. This picture was after I tried disconnecting the 12 volt battery, since the time is wrong.

    DashLightsCrop20211007_171031.jpg
     
  12. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    ScanGauge 2 would have retained the codes that could have been readily retrieve even if the ICE was not running but the 12 volt was OK.
     
  13. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    I was just armchairin from my seat here in front of the screen.
    Overheating light coming on temporarily then goes away | Page 2 | PriusChat
    At least I read the all posts in this thread before I posted. And that's not always the case for me, unfortunately.
     
  14. gromittoo

    gromittoo Active Member

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