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My Gen2 200,000 mi “Tune Up” - Engine Clean

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by Lord Byron, Mar 29, 2019.

  1. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    Most definitely change the transmission fluid if it’s never been changed before
     
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  2. Lord Byron

    Lord Byron Member

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    Definitely.. I’ve got it on the list for Thursday when I go to my buddy’s to do the oil change. He has a lift, so it should be pretty straightforward. I’m going to go to the dealership tomorrow to pick up 4 qts OEM transmission fluid.
     
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  3. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    Don’t forget the o rings. New one for the oil pan too.
     
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  4. Lord Byron

    Lord Byron Member

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    Picked up a box of them and the new oil drain plug came with one. Are the 2 the same size?
     
  5. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    I don’t think so. They had 2 different part numbers at my dealer. I think the transmission ones were bigger but it’s been a few months.
     
  6. Lord Byron

    Lord Byron Member

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    From what I found:

    Transaxle = 24mm 29ftlb torque
    Oil = 14mm 27ftlb torque

    I’ll see if they have some transmission plugs at auto zone. Don’t havr enough time to have them shipped.

    *I also stumbled on these torque numbers and figured I’d drop them here for future reference.

    Lug Nuts 76 ftlb
    Oil Pan Drain Plug 27 ftlb
    Oil Filter Cap 18 ftlb
    Transaxle Drain Plug 29 ftlb
    Transaxle Fill Plug 29 ftlb
    Inverter Coolant Drain Plug 29 ftlb
    Engine Coolant Drain Cock Plug 9 ftlb
     
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  7. Lord Byron

    Lord Byron Member

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    BA1400AB-7585-4806-B737-F83DDA1CCC5E.jpeg
    Picked up transmission fluid and some gaskets today at Toyota World. $9.97/qt isn’t bad. I also found it on Amazon for about the same price. I added it to the Prius Amazon shopping list at the top of the thread.

    I also stopped by Auto Zone to see if they had replacement plugs. They don’t. He said they are 14mm, not 24mm.. I’ll confirm tomorrow when I get there. He may have been looking at oil drain plug. Who knows.. either way they didn’t have them.
     
  8. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    Toyota world didn’t have the o rings?
     
  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Usually stuff is more expensive up here, but last time for me the Toyota ATF WS fluid was $9.32 (CDN), per liter, at the dealership parts counter. Just quick calc, that's about $6.60 (USD) per (US) quart.

    Then there was the washers, two identical ones on third gen: $1.99 (CDN) apiece, converts to a $1.50 (USD), of the top of my head.
     
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  10. Lord Byron

    Lord Byron Member

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    52DE0CD5-6269-4133-9408-E782CE0C86B8.jpeg I just called and confirmed with Toyota parts.. these should be all I need. Is there something else I should get?

    Check engine light is on because I’m running codes P1121 and P1116. I had the collant valve replaced by my mechanic a couple of weeks ago. Cleared the code when replaced, then it threw the P1121 again & P1116 the second time. He and I are going to re-replace the valve (under warranty), then replace the coolant sensor... after we double check for air after coolant drain and fill from the initial coolant valve replacement. He says there shouldn’t be air, but from what I’m reading we should check that before doing anything else. Any thoughts on the pending P0420.. other than we should smoke some herb.. lol

    Maintenance light is oil change due.. will reset that tomorrow and will start doing oil changes every 4,000 from here on in.

    C0925CD7-27E1-4967-9812-3CA16417AB33.jpeg

     
    #30 Lord Byron, Apr 3, 2019
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2019
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  11. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    They are not O-rings, they are crush washers.
    Why do you want replacement plugs?
     
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  12. Lord Byron

    Lord Byron Member

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    Didn’t want new plugs.. I wanted new washers. I misspoke.
     
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  13. Lord Byron

    Lord Byron Member

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    Changed the oil today. My mechanic is concerned about changing transmission fluid at 200,000 miles if it has never been done. The concern is all the cleaners etc creating leaks etc. My thinking is that the transmission gets used a lot less than a regular car, so it’s more like 120,000-150,000 on the transmission. What are your thoughts on this?
     
  14. Lord Byron

    Lord Byron Member

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    It’s good to have friends with toys!

    We’ll be re-replacing the coolant valve next week.
    E3D64C9A-43D2-4445-A2E6-FEAE78300343.jpeg
     
  15. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Change it asap.

    I'm a little obsesive, change the transaxle fluid the first time at one year mark, around 10K miles. It was quite dark compared to new fluid, even then. Subsequent change, about 2 years later and another 30K miles, the drained fluid was virtually the same as the new.
     
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  16. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    It really doesn’t work like a traditional transmission. It’s more of a lube for the planetary gears and to keep the mg’s Cool. Hopefully someone with more knowledge than me can interject but I don’t think I have read of the transmission leaking anywhere but the seals at the CV joints.

     
    #36 Skibob, Apr 4, 2019
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2019
  17. Lord Byron

    Lord Byron Member

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    New rear hatch struts!! ...no more squeak and who knew the hatch is supposed to open on it’s own.. lol. Note to self, the clip doesn’t need to come off the new one before putting it on. The clip tabs on the inside of the ball joint push out of the way for it to slide on easily.

    I tied the hatch off using a support for the garage door and a phone charger cable so it wouldn’t decapitate me.

    69CC8854-804F-4723-A19E-BA90F6A3845D.jpeg 209C2B36-B3CC-48CB-85EF-9292506D9015.jpeg
     
  18. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    No leaks on this trans. As far as seals go there going to be alot happier with fresh fluid than the stuff thats in your trans.

    Change the trans fluid. Its a manual gearbox for all intents. It will be jet black as it also lubes the differential hypoid gears.. Takes 4 quarts of WS. Fill it up till it comes out the fill hole.
    Snake a long tube funnel down from the top into the side fill hole. Its easy have replaced mine 3 times already in my drive way.

    The fill hole bolt on the side of the trans is really socked on. Need a breaker bar. Remove that first.

    The engine coolant is a pia to get the air out so don't dump that whole engine loop. Just dump the rad only fill it back up with Toyota LLC wait a few months and do it again. That way you will not induce the dreaded air lock. It is very difficult to get the air out of the engine coolant loop because of the CHRS bottle. Air will get trapped in that bottle and you will have to spoof the bottle pump relay to turn the bottle pump on and circulate the fluid out of the bottle to get that air out.

    Change the inverter fluid asap.

    Car is hard on the Inverter coolant but very easy on the engine coolant. Inverter coolant see's huge cross section of aluminum heatsink thats under the inverter. That aluminum contaminates the fluid. You will see an instant improvement in mileage with fresh inverter coolant. Inverter loop uses the same LLC as the engine coolant. Very very easy to change the inverter coolant. very easy to bleed. It will extend the life of the inverter pump.
     
    #38 edthefox5, Apr 5, 2019
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2019
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  19. Lord Byron

    Lord Byron Member

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    On my 3rd gas fill up and the oil level is still looking good! Down slightly, but not enough for me to add any. Usually she would consume about 3/4 to a full qt every other gas fill.. about 850-900 miles.

    Fingers crossed that this continues.. I’d love to stop burning oil!
     
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  20. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I can't recall what all you did in the oil-consumption-reduction department. Was it just this (from post #1):