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My Prius dead again, with techstream this time.

Discussion in 'Prius v Main Forum' started by gromittoo, Oct 16, 2021.

  1. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    fuel pump inlet.jpg
    These uploaded photos show the pump assembly with the cup at the bottom and the pump inlet.

    full fuel pump assembly.jpg
    The inlet is a small 8mm located at the side at the bottom of the cup at the bottom of the side with the fuel level meter., The pump inlet screen is at the bottom of the cup. The cup is spring loaded to male it keep in continuous contact of the bottom.

    Pockets of water may be dispersed in "pods" at the bottom of the tank. As you drive around, most of the time, the small inlet might likely always draw in gasoline, unless a water pocket rolling around on the bottom of the tank by chance rolls around to the pump inlet.

    It's like your pump and intake is playing "Russian Roulette" at the bottom of the tank.

    When this happens, water is sucked in and sent by the fuel pump to the fuel injectors. Isopropyl alcohol would mix with gasoline. disperse the water into small droplets small enough droplets to make it vaporize as the gasoline and alcohol is burned.
     
    #81 Georgina Rudkus, Oct 19, 2021
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2021
  2. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    Your choice. My time is worth a lot more than a couple hundred dollars.

    Toyota doesn't revise a part and change their inventory, unless it is absolutely necessary.

    Given the redesign cost, testing and logistical factors of distribution, it might have cost them a million dollars and more.
     
    #82 Georgina Rudkus, Oct 19, 2021
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2021
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  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The Gen 4 manifold is a significant redesign with changes in the main intake air passages, making them longer, individually tuned passages. That might be the Gen 4 "tournament design" gromittoo had in mind.

    The differences between original and revised Gen 3 manifolds aren't so noticeable. As I understand it, the small EGR passages got revised, from a single straight gallery with straight branches coming off to the 4 ports, to a tournament design just for the EGR passages.

    I don't think I've seen any theory that would connect the differences in the Gen 3 EGR passage shapes, when clean, to an engine no-start condition.
     
  4. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    I just jacked up the car and checked the bottom of the fuel tank. It lies in a round depressed pocket away from the fill inlet. There are several raised longitudinal areas that are slotted upward to accommodate the "upholding straps" which are wall-like and isolates a couple of low pockets.

    This seems to support my theory that water was isolated and appeared at the intake later while you were driving.
     
  5. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Gas and water will mix as the car is moving. I think this theory is a red herring. Its hard to imagine how bad fuel would cause a bang and cause the hv reading to dramatically change. The only justification was the tech's sense the fuel did not smell right. Bad fuel won't suddenly be ok and later go bad again.

    If it does not fit you must acquit. Then Toyota promises to find the real killer.
     
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  6. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    I agree with this logic especially if the intake is as gummed up as they usually are. Same thing Toyota mechanics try to practice.
     
  7. gromittoo

    gromittoo Active Member

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    I found a TSB on the new IM:
    https://www.tsbsearch.com/Toyota/T-SB-0103-12

    That TSB mentions improvements to the IM that apply problems with temperatures below -5 degrees C / 23 degrees F. It specifically mentions P0A0F code after a "cold soak", My second incident was a "cold soak" but at a temperature in the 50's F when I got that error. When my wife gets home, I will go out and check the P/N on the manifold in the 2017.

    What is not clear is if the improved IM has the Tournament passages.

    @jzchen mentions details in this post including part numbers:
    https://priuschat.com/posts/3189619/

    In that post, @jzchen mentions the new IM part numbers are 17120-37090 or 17120-37091. When I search Conicelli's parts site, they sell the 17120-37091 intake manifold for $212.22, but they don't list any vehicles in the fitment section.

    Conicelli lists 17120-37054 as the part number with fitment for all Prius 2010 to 2015, and all Prius v's 2012 to 2017, which is the not improved version. The price is the same $212.22.
     
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  8. gromittoo

    gromittoo Active Member

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    The cleanout of the IM did not take more than an hour, when you consider I had to remove the IM to replace the PCV at the same time. I was unaware of an "improved IM" when I did the work. I will probably get around to installing an OCC, which will require the IM removal. I'll consider the change then.

    I would rather spend the $200 on a Cat guard. A lady near me had her Cat stolen from her Prius while she was grocery shopping in broad daylight!
    https://nextdoor.com/news_feed/?post=204639363
     
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  9. jzchen

    jzchen Newbie!

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    Now this is a shame, that it was dismissed. Advisors should be allowed access to Toyota TIS if they do not already have it.

    EGR sticking can cause rough idle. Rough idle happened in ours at a relatively cold for SoCal 46 F IIRC (if I recall correctly). (Very low mileage short trip use). The T--SB I posted regarding EGR notes specifically there does NOT have to be codes thrown. It includes the same flash as the IM T--SB.... The EGR design I believe was changed as instructions note to unwrap harness insulation for the connector to reach and to rewrap with special tape....


    REVVL V+ 5G ?
     
  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    You can do OCC install without intake removal, say just the airbox and snorkel, but that said, it is easier.
     
  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Maybe I’m Johnny Early, but I’ve cleaned our intake a couple times now; wrenching excluded, the actual cleaning, was at most an hour. No way I would bin a masterpiece of plastic with metal embeds, to dodge such a minor chore.
     
  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    With my standards of cleaning, which are more about knocking out the gnarliest accumulations of stuff than about hosting state dinners inside the thing, an hour for cleaning would be a really generous budget.

    I figure it's not going to look state-dinner-worthy 1500 miles after I do it anyway.
     
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  13. gromittoo

    gromittoo Active Member

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    OK I got a call from the actual Tech.

    The same two hoses were off:
    1) PCV Valve hose (with a clamp this time)
    2) Evap Purge valve hose.

    Apparently there is a TSB about the Evap Purge system building up and releasing incredible pressure, enough to blow hoses off of anything connected to the Intake Manifold when the Purge Valve opens. Apparently the two hoses blew off where they are connected to the base of the Throttle Body.

    The TSB involves replacing the Purge Valve with a New part specified in the TSB. Also required is reprogramming the ECU to work correctly with the new part. This is not a recall, so the cost is on me.

    The Service Manager told me something kind of different when I picked up the car. What he told me is that the tech had found two two hoses were disconnected, and one was missing its clamp. He told me that the tech recommended that I replace the PCV valve (Which I said I had recently done as preventive maintenance), and replace the Purge Valve and reprogram the ECU. I didn't understand the connection to the Purge valve.

    The explanation of the purge valve releasing excess pressure into the IM was not communicated to me. The TSB was not mentioned, so I did not understand why the tech thought the Purge Valve change was important, or why reprogramming was involved. The SM wrote down the part number of the Purge valve, and since I had mentioned that I have techstream, I think he was implying I could easily do the work.

    I still can't figure out how this relates to "Firecracker Bang" and loss of Power steering 200 feet later. The Tech told me the car is not designed to run very far on electric only. 200 feet on level ground at 25MPH is not very far.

    I wish I had asked the Tech if the EGR_FLOW_INSUFFICIENCY might be somehow related. I would expect that the "Min" values on my screenshots would be way off if hoses were loose or off.
     
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  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Sounds like they have the bit in their teeth now. (y)
     
  15. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    That high pressure blowing off the hoses would have caused that big bang,

    The purge valve could have failed as the result that the fuel tank was over filled. Liquid fuel is not compressible.
     
  16. gromittoo

    gromittoo Active Member

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    Got a call from the SM. Cost including second tow is $662 + 6% tax. The part required for the TSB may be hard to find. If they can get it, it will be done tomorrow.

    The TSB is 0041-15

    https://www.tsbsearch.com/Toyota/T-SB-0041-15
     
    #96 gromittoo, Oct 19, 2021
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2021
  17. gromittoo

    gromittoo Active Member

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    Maybe. Still I contend that the bang I heard is not consistent with a hose blowing off. It sounded like a firecracker, and came from under the back of the vehicle. An electrical short would have sounded like a firecracker. It also had a smell that was gunpowder like. Hose blowing also does not explain why I lost so much battery in the 200 feet while traveling 25mph on a level road between when the bang occurred, and the loss of power steering. And the location of the sound is wrong. And, I did not hear a bang a second time it happened.

    I have to admit to the sin of possible overfilling. I have had issues with gas pumps that shut off when the tank is only half full on other cars (my minivan is notorious for this). I always give the pump handle one extra squeeze, and if it shuts off right away from the second squeeze, I quit. At least I broke myself of the habit of topping off to the next even half gallon. Having the MPG calculated for me, and paying at the pump with a credit card has broken me of that habit.
     
  18. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    Thanks for the information on the TSB.

    My car is within the range of this TSB. I will order Toyota part #25860-3720 just in case I need it. $80 invested is good insurance, even if I never need it.
     
  19. gromittoo

    gromittoo Active Member

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    Reading the TSB, it would be covered under the "CARB" warranty for "180 months or 150,000 miles". I thought PA is a CARB state, but not according to the TSB. Non-CARB warranty is 96 Months or 80,000 miles.

    The Part is 25860-37020, and costs around $70