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Mystery 2010 problem

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by EV_mode, Jun 5, 2021.

  1. EV_mode

    EV_mode Junior Member

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    Okay so I bought this car disabled it would start UP but wouldn't go in any gear. So I towed it home and found that someone vandalized the wiring harness at the side of the transaxle. They just cleanly sliced the wires up close to the connector. So I replaced the connector and reconnected the wires. The car now runs and drives great. The only issue is I get the orange triangle check hybrid along with the red battery on the far right side. I have had the 12v battery checked many times. I also swapped out another known good battery and I get the same result. If I clear the codes I can drive it for about 15 to 30 mins before the car flashes the check hybrid/bat and orange triangle. The CODE is only one and its p0a08 for the inverter. So before I get another inverter I wanted to run by you guys. The other thing I've determined is I get NO sloshing around in the inverter coolant reservoir. The odd part is I have driven it for good distances in HOT temps and I get no odd driving behavior or anything to lead me to think the coolant is overheating. When I go reset the codes I can switch into power or EV mod no problem and I can tell the power mode really works. Any ideas not to familiar with these and don't want to go throwing parts at if I'm not sure if it will fix it.

    Oh yeah coolant is clean and appears to be in great condition bright pink.

    Thank you
     
    #1 EV_mode, Jun 5, 2021
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2021
  2. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Glad you got that harness fixed!
    Have you replace the inverter pump? Since you are not getting any "sloshing", it may not be running.

     
  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    A problem with inverter cooling can be one of the possible causes of the DC/DC converter trouble code that you have. If you want to be most confident you're not just throwing parts, there are about 23 pages for P0A08 in the Repair Manual (more info), giving steps you can follow to pin down the cause.
     
  4. EV_mode

    EV_mode Junior Member

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    Thanks if I can only get through this and it will be a good car. :)
    I have not replaced the pump but seems to be dong nothing. I just had thought if it wasn't working the inverter would overheat and throw that code instead of just the DC INVERTER code.


    Thank you I'll have to check it out. I thought maybe it needed to be reflashed or something. I say that because if I remember correctly I remember a video of some guy replacing his inverter and he ran some software and had to somethings to get it back on board. I'm thinking this because the car did run many times without being connected. When I nor the previous owner knew its problem.

    So does anybody know if the inverter has to be flashed when its disconnected and car is ran?
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The inverter does contain an MG ECU that can be reflashed; one day when you have the immediate issues solved, you might want to check its firmware version number and make sure it is current with the recalls.

    But it isn't anything that you have to reflash to make the thing work.
     
  6. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Make sure you are getting power to the pump, then have someone ready the car and listen if it's running.


     
  7. EV_mode

    EV_mode Junior Member

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    You don't by chance have the schematic do you? So I can confirm the circuit back to the fuse box.
     
  8. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    I don't, but I'm sure it will mysteriously pop up here shortly. :whistle:(y)
     
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  9. EV_mode

    EV_mode Junior Member

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    Cool it would be much appreciated.
     
  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    ipump.png

    Looking at the way it has power supplied between +BWP and GND, and is controlled by the Power Management Control ECU using SWP and NWP signals, I would bet the control circuit works just the same as the engine water pump; you can find some details about that here, and just remember all the wires identified there are for a different pump. :)

    The +BWP supply here comes from the IGCT #3 fuse.

    By the way, that's from a 2010 EWD. Between years of a generation, a lot of the wiring seems to stay pretty much the same, though some things do change. I've noticed the connector designations (like A21, g1, Ag1 here) can change between years, even when the connectors themselves don't. Always best to check in your own year's EWD.
     
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  11. EV_mode

    EV_mode Junior Member

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    thanks fellow Hoosier :).
     
  12. EV_mode

    EV_mode Junior Member

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    ChapmanF do you know of any good Prius techs in indy or Hamilton co?
     
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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  14. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I mostly DIY so I haven't needed to look. There is Steve at autobeyours way down in Scottsburg, who rebuilds wrecked Prii and also does some repair. Last I knew he did a lot of Gen 2 and had a colorful opinion of the Gen 3 ... but he does also rebuild the v, and that's pretty much a pregnant Gen 3.
     
  15. EV_mode

    EV_mode Junior Member

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    Kind of like you Canucks

    Canuck" /kəˈnʌk/ is a slang term for a Canadian. ... The origins of the word are uncertain. The term "Kanuck" is first recorded in 1835 as an Americanism, originally referring to Dutch Canadians (which included German Canadians) or French Canadians.

    thanks

    Lol thanks..
     
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  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    There is also a bit of a rivalry here between two state universities, at one of which you'll be received positively for saying Hoosier and at the other perhaps not so much.

    The one that's connected with 'Hoosier' is the one in the southern mountains of the state, which maybe does lend some credence to the third etymology proposed in that HISTORY article.
     
    #16 ChapmanF, Jun 6, 2021
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2021
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