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Mystery charging?

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by Breakfixrepeat, May 17, 2017.

  1. Breakfixrepeat

    Breakfixrepeat New Member

    Joined:
    May 17, 2017
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    Location:
    Mars, ma
    Vehicle:
    2002 Prius
    Model:
    ----USA----
    Mystery to me, at this point...hope not to someone here . My 2002 prius was off Clist at new years for $450 showing 174k...have driven it 20,000 miles getting 44 mpg. So I've already gotten a fine deal. However, I'm basically certain there's more life in her. From the time I got her, I'd stop and reset the ecu when the engine would go into limp mode with high rpm. Wasn't so often and was feasible to deal with. Codes were essentially always 3030 and then a 3021 or 3007, sometimes 3011 , sometimes two or three banks showing low voltage when limp hit. (Could even just turn everything off at full stop, then restart and limp mode would be gone even when still showing codes...then would reset codes while driving.) Could drive another 50-100 miles, sometimes more. All good with me.

    3030 would reappear almost immediately after reset and restart, but no limp mode and could still drive for 100+ miles woth 3030. Occasionally there would be other codes that seemed to be spurious. The relatively consistent pattern was 3030 plus at least one low bank. I could live with this fine becauseI had to keep going...no real choice.

    Gradual deterioration...more frequent limp mode/reset. Now, in the last two weeks, permanent limp mode 4500 rpm at 45-50 mph, hurts me to hear the engine whine it's life away, but I have to get where I gotta. Energy flow screen shows no charging to and no power from battery...engine showing driving wheels and elect motor and motor to wheels, or solid white only. Never showing charging hv batt. Batt level constant about 25% by eyeball.
    Attached tis Techstream laptop. Start up (always have to clear codes, then turn key before central Bsttery indicator comes on) , 1, 9 , 10, 11 low...others ok. Idles at 2k. That was may 12.

    . Parking lot driving 3k rpm. On any real road 3500 to 4k. 40 to 50 mph 4500. There seems to be some action in the transaxle but not real consistent. Im sure fluid has to be changed and maybe level is wrong. At 40 mph, I can romp I'm pedal and rpm drops as fights transaxle, then transaxle will ease up and rpm goes back up. Sometimes I can add a little pressure And rpm stays down for a bit and car accelerates...can get it to 65 by keeping correct pressure, but when let up on pedal rpm whizzes up past 5k, ouch. So I'm killing the engine. Can get 20-30mpg but that's small consolation for killing engine.

    Question. Why is it still starting? (Since hv batt cranks engine). How is hv Battery charging, so it can start engine? Unless energy flow screen is wrong? There is,clearly no elect motor driving wheels, I can tell by feel (as certain as I CAn be, anyway). But reapeated starting should drain hv batt, right? What am I missing here?
     
  2. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2012
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    Location:
    Wellington, New Zealand
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    You have had P3030, P3021, P3007 and P3011 DTCs so 4 blocks (and up to 8 modules) showing weakness, so I thought it would be obvious.

    You need to purchase a late model Camry (or 2 Prius) battery and transplant the best modules into your pack, or buy a new pack from Toyota.

    I would not continue driving the car until it is repaired.
     
  3. Breakfixrepeat

    Breakfixrepeat New Member

    Joined:
    May 17, 2017
    2
    0
    0
    Location:
    Mars, ma
    Vehicle:
    2002 Prius
    Model:
    ----USA----
    Thanks, but it's not obvious how the hv Battery can continue to have power to start the engine after weeks of the screen displaying no charging of the hv Battery. Also, the cells showing low aren't necessarily low. There are pics in this forum of bad/corroded sensing connections/harness that give spurious readings. Also, I believe that bad cells don't just keep a low value while the engine is running (a hard short would burn up and go open). A bad but intact cell would charge andcdischarge rapidly because it can't hold a charge . If the charging system is,bad such that the middle indicator battery fault is lit but the battery is still getting charged enough to start the engine after 2weeks, replacing cells, even if they are bad, won't fix the charging system and/or fault. Somehow the battery is getting recharged.