Need Electric A/C Compressor replaced with A/C flush, Help finding Cheaper Shops?

Have you tried simply filling with R134a?

 

Since you are opening it up, I think a pro would evacuate the system and make sure there is no moisture in there before adding back refrigerant. They also would have the tools to recover whatever charge is in the system when you start. Better if it doesn't go into the atmosphere.

 

DId you get a P0AA6 that the dealer said is your A/C compressor?

 

Well I have an ac compressor for sale....

 

All three of my Prius' needed R-134a added this summer, 03, 07 and 08 years. Each took somewhere around 6oz, so I'm inclined to think you might be in the same boat IF you DIDN'T get a P0AA6 that was traced to the compressor.

If you got that error, it's not just the oil.

Buy JC's compressor, a vacuum pump ($90), as set of manifold gauges ($40) and refrigerant/oil ($30). You will be proud of yourself.

Steve

 

Hey, is anybody bothering to read the original poster's other thread on this topic?

It matters to know the reason the work needs to be done. In this case it seems the system has had non-ND11 oil injected into it, leading to an electrical ground fault in the compressor.

That oil is throughout the system, it isn't coming out with a simple evac and recharge, and it will happily do the same thing to the next compressor that gets installed.

Toyota was quoting to replace all the parts of the system that are now contaminated with that oil. (One reason their quote is really high is that they have the entire inside A/C unit assembly to R&R, instead of taking it apart and replacing just the evap, valve, and tubes, which would be about $3k less).

There is another post on here somewhere that reports success with doing a very thorough chemical flush. So maybe that works too, if it's done right.

But just pretending the problem isn't there, recharging it and destroying another compressor, probably isn't a promising way to go.

-Chap

 

There's enough evidence to suggest that the 1MR resistance of the PAG oil vs. the 10MR resistance of the hybrid ester oil isn't as catastrophic as some suggest. MOST of the oil comes out with an evac. I suspect getting most of the oil out is all that is needed.

If a chemical flush can be done economically (and are the chemicals as non-conductive as the oil?), then it's worth a try.

 

I've never known for sure, is the only issue the resistance of the oil itself, or could it be the oil chemically degrading the insulation of the motor windings?

-Chap

 

I've always understood it as it's the slight conductivity that ultimately breaks down the insulation due to current flow where it's not supposed to be.

The evacuation procedure in the manual instructs one to run the A/C system for 10 minutes to "pick up" the oil out of the system. I believe at that point the vast majority of the oil is in circulation and is removed with an evacuation.

 

I guess that leaves the question, how much 'vast majority' is enough to be safe, given the warnings about even so much as using a manifold gauge that was ever used in the past with the wrong oil. (To be honest, I've seen that warning repeated by a lot of PriusChatters but I've never looked for it in a Gen 2 or later manual to be sure that's where it comes from ... I assume it is, and not just something repeated by PCers for yuks.)

-Chap

 

Unfortunately, I made this mistake hoping to fix my A/C on the cheap. That was in May. But there is a glimmer of hope; see here:

High Voltage A/C Compressor Oil Issues | Automotive Career Development Center

I will be relying on said hope soon. I just found out about it and it has not been fixed yet.

hope this helps. Update with success or failure, will do the same.

 

well played!

 

I was wondering what you were charged for the replacement compressor power cabling and its installation? Or did you also buy that through eBay?