Need help Warning lights on

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Josephphamy, Mar 2, 2017.

  1. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    What Patrick was getting at, the two screenshots you posted in #14 are, one from the ABS/VSC/TRAC computer (ECU), and one from the Gateway ECU. (You can see those names in the tabs near the top of the screen).

    If you just run a Techstream 'health check', you should get back a whole list of ECUs and whether they have any active codes or not.

    In your screenshots, the first one, from the brake computer, is just telling you that it has heard of some problem from the HV computer. Those two computers have to share information, because if the HV one is having some problem, the brake computer has to know it might be on its own to slow the car down without regenerative help. So it has those two codes, but they are pretty vague. All they mean is "hey, I'm the brake computer, and I've heard the HV computer mention there's some problem."

    So to track down the problem, you need to check the other ECUs that are showing codes in Techstream. (Don't be too strict about the names of the ECUs ... the one that basically coordinates the powertrain was called "HV ECU" in Gen 1, they haven't used the exact same name in all gens, could be called something like Hybrid or Power Control, I don't have the books in front of me right now.)

    Your second screen shot is from the Gateway ECU (as its name suggests, it sits at the junction of some different comm networks in the car, and passes data between them), and all three of those codes are showing trouble communicating with three different other components in the car.

    Those codes might be clearable (try asking Techstream to clear them). Sometimes, connecting odd scantools or devices to the OBD port can cause comm errors to be logged, and you can clear them once the offending devices aren't connected.

    -Chap
     
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  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Maybe the DTC from the "important" ECU's are not visible to the OP because of the comm faults...
     
  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The Gateway ECU seemed to be complaining only about the Body, Smart Key, and Combination Meter ECUs.

    A Gen 2 has three types of network: the CAN, the BEAN, and the AVC-LAN; the Gateway ECU has an interface on all three (2004 New Car Features, p. BE-47). The Body, Smart, and Meter ECUs are all on the BEAN (p. BE-49). The HV and battery ECUs are both on the CAN (p. BE-48), which has its own direct connections to the DLC connector, so the reported comm errors shouldn't be interfering with talking to them.

    So, I'm not sure why the OP isn't seeing those codes. Maybe just spend a bit more time getting familiar with Techstream?

    Also not sure yet what might explain those particular three BEAN denizens not showing up. The BEAN is a ring network, intended to stay functional even with any one break. Page BE-49 shows where those ECUs are, logically, around the ring, and they aren't all three adjacent, scuttling my easiest guess. Back to the drawing board....

    -Chap
     
  4. Josephphamy

    Josephphamy Junior Member

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    Hi. Thank you for your help. I ran the techstream again today. My Laptop died just got it fix.
    1st screen is
    14913303536941672301853.jpg

    i Clicked on the Hybrid Control: Code P0AA6 showed up 1491330529726326039649.jpg

    I clicked on the Code:

    14913306881771255199375.jpg

    I went back and clicked on the Engine and ECT:
    14913308893951065734417.jpg

    And Gateway:

    14913309818521294243273.jpg
     
  5. Josephphamy

    Josephphamy Junior Member

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    And this is the data list. Please help us. My Daughter does not have a car for month now. Thank you
    14913311572751548275623.jpg 14913312265031068870412.jpg 14913312265031068870412.jpg
     
  6. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1. P0AA6 is accompanied by a three digit info code. See if you can find that.
    2. Worst case, just disconnect the 12V battery for a few minutes, then reconnect. The car can be driven once after that. Repeat that process while you continue to research the problem and decide what to do about it.
     
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  7. andrewclaus

    andrewclaus Active Member

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    The third photo above show detail codes 526 and 612--ground fault in the battery.
     
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  8. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    OK, that implies at least one battery module is leaking electrolyte.
     
  9. Josephphamy

    Josephphamy Junior Member

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    Thank you for your inputs from all of you. How do I tell what cell is leaking? I checked Voltages but I did not know how to check for leaking. I replaced 2 cells, they were nearly 8 volts but on the chassis near those cells had the sign of corroded. If I buy a Charger/ Dischager to charge and discharge to compare the discharging time to one another.. Will the leak battery show differently?

    By the way, I had a little code check bought from Harbor Freight to clear the code, but only do that to move the car for street cleaning. Sometime it last for a week before the error Red triangle came back, sometime code comes up in 5 mins driving, few times I drove 25 mins to 30 mins on freeway to test drive, it was fine, but exiting the freeway, stops at red light code came up.

    Joseph
     
  10. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    The battery will usually leak at the battery terminals. Look for wetness on the terminals.

    That corroded case might need to be cleaned or replaced
     
  11. andrewclaus

    andrewclaus Active Member

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    And if you find it, treat it with care. From what I've read, the leakage is caustic and can be neutralized with a weak acid like vinegar. Use chemical protective equipment for eyes and skin, and ventilate the area well.

    Be sure to properly torque any terminal nuts you disconnect. Look up proper ratings and use a small torque wrench, in in-lbs.
     
  12. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    And to do the job properly, you need to disassemble the battery and discard any leaking modules. Clean and dry (thoroughly) each module and also clean the inside of the case. Ensure the modules and case are rinsed of the cleaner and the they are thoroughly dry before reassembling. Because the electrolyte is clear, it can be hard to see the contamination, so clean all modules, but certainly all that are adjacent to the leaking modules.
     
  13. Josephphamy

    Josephphamy Junior Member

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    20170425_095542.jpg 20170425_095530.jpg 20170425_095525.jpg Hello Everyone
    I have been clearing the code and used the car, because I can not find where the problem came from.. Clearing the code sometime lasts for 1 day, sometime 3 days, sometime code came up in 10 mins drive. I opened the battery pack again today and found few cells leaking something like oil, other cells has some " white powder " on the case. When the cells leak they show " white " or " oil ? at the terminals are clean. what should I do? how do i tell which one is bad? or I have to replace all of those cells? , approx 8 cells in those area. Please help us. see new photos Thank you. Joseph
     
  14. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    The "wet" modules are the leaking ones. The "white" module residue is just dried corrosion, that should be cleaned off.

    The leaking modules should drop voltage faster than the good modules. Record the voltage and wait a week and take the voltage readings again. The leaking modules voltage should drop much faster than the good modules.

    There's so much acid on the battery case, I suggest you buy yourself a new case and reassemble. You shouldn't be reusing that case.

    If you have the funds to buy 8 newer modules, I would buy 8 and be done with it. Keep the other ones as test modules or spares.
     
  15. Josephphamy

    Josephphamy Junior Member

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    thank you. I will order some cells from Ebay tonight.
     
  16. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Do you have equipment to charge and balance the pack?

    SM-N900P ?
     
  17. Josephphamy

    Josephphamy Junior Member

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    I am thinking to get one from Ebay selling for Remote control Car.. What is a good, affortable model do you recommend?
     
  18. Josephphamy

    Josephphamy Junior Member

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    I have changed total 7 cells in the past. I havr 2 options: If I buy 8 more x 40 = 320. or buying whole pack from a local guy selling a refurbished.. with 1 year warranty for $800. I just go to pickup and exchange, no labor. If option 1, I spend 320 to buy 8 cells I still have to deal with those 13 original 12 years old cells can break down anytime. And buying one by one, the sellers don't pack well, carrier does not handle with care, exessive shock might cause internal broken and leak again.. We have kids in college and this car is for my daughter, we just want to save money for them.. I still dont know what is best way I should do.. If buying whole pack will it fix the problem? From those error codes, what do you think .? Any suggession, wrong or right, good or not are appreciated.. I undertand that Electric Hybrid is very difficult. please give me some inputs. Thanks for reading my post and helps. I am waiting for your advice before buying cells or whole pack..
    Joseph.
     
  19. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Who's the local guy for $800? You can get that price at salvage yards....

    SM-N900P ?
     
  20. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    You should definitely for $800 for a reliable battery. This whack a mole thing isn't working for you

    SM-N900P ?
     
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