Need replacement headlight wiring harness

If you can get a wiring harness from a salvaged car, that would be a good option.

From what I have seen, buying new harnesses from Toyota can be an expensive option.

 

No I don't, I haven't had to do it myself.

 

More tedious than hard, probably. Be sure to find all the connectors and disconnect them; find all the clamps and unclamp them; snake it out. I suppose you'll need the bumper cover off for access. If you run into any connectors where it isn't obvious how they come apart, the wiring diagram manual has pictures.

-Chap

 

Just got a Warranty Enhancement Program announcement for 2010-2011 Prius.
It is to replace the halogen bulbs and wire harness. Or if you have receipts you can get a refund of your expenses.
Looks like a nice no cost deal for us owners. I replaced my headlights last year and now one is out again, so the timing is good for me.
I called my dealer and there appears to be a national shortage of the new version of this harness. I called headquarters and the operators are unaware of a shortage. I quickly checked online and couldn't find any harnesses new version or old.

 

My quick check for 82114-47010 did not show any shortage issue. It's $24 or $25 most places. Takes two to do the car, plus the special, copper-to-aluminum versions of Toyota's crimp barrels and sealant-infused heatshrink tubes. Someone (was it Elektroingenieur?) found a source for the necessary copper-to-aluminum barrel crimper tool for a better price than Toyota asks for it. Obviously, this is not a new harness that replaces the old one; it's an addition that gets spliced in.

But did you notice you tacked this Gen 3, 2010-related post on onto an old thread about Gen 2?

-Chap

 

Indeed it was, in this thread: Electrical contact question -- kitchen cooktop | PriusChat

I can also reveal the mystery of the 82999-30010 heat shrink sleeve. The one I received from Japan is 50 mm long, clear in color, and marked “ES-1,” which means it’s probably a TE/Raychem ES1000-NO.1-C1-X-50MM, available inexpensively from many distributors.

The 82999-52020 butt splice is more interesting; the outer diameter (4.1 mm) is the same, but it’s just a bit too long (15.3 mm, rather than 15.0 mm) to be the ordinary “B-2” style (to JIS C 2806) made by JST, Nichifu, and others, which is intended only for use with copper wire. The search continues.

 

@Elektroingenieur, if I remember right, Toyota lists a handful of butt splice part numbers for Cu-to-Al (82999-52020 being one of those sizes), and another handful of butt splice part numbers, different ones, for ordinary Cu-to-Cu applications. Have you looked for any of those, by any chance?

Another thing I seem to remember is that the 09042-2C100 crimper (Lobtex AK15A) was specified expressly for the Cu-to-Al splices, and there may have been a different crimper that they specified for use with the Cu-to-Cu splices. (I don't have the order number at hand.) Have you, by chance, identified that one?

Or, the $64 question, do you know of any one crimp tool that can do both duties? Can the AK15A do the crimps specified for the non-Cu-Al applications? One tool would be lovely....

 

Recent editions of the Electrical Wiring Diagram (more info) have a table on the Terminal and Connector Repair page with the Toyota part numbers:

Sleeve size: Small (Red)
Part Number: 82999-12010
Nominal size of wire (Outside Diameter of wire): 0.3 or less (1.0 – 0.2 mm)

Sleeve size: Medium (Blue)
Part Number: 82999-12020
Nominal size of wire (Outside Diameter of wire): 0.5 – 1.25 (2.0 – 1.0 mm)

Sleeve size: Large (Yellow)
Part Number: 82999-12030
Nominal size of wire (Outside Diameter of wire): 2 or more (5.0 – 3.0 mm)​

These are parallel splices, not the butt splices often found in inexpensive kits of insulated splices and terminals. Equivalents from TE Connectivity’s PLASTI-GRIP line are TE part numbers 34131, 34133, and 34135, respectively. I’ve compared the Toyota and TE parts, and while not identical, they are very similar:

(TE on the left, Toyota on the right; ruler in millimeters.)

Toyota’s Wire Harness Repair Manual (PDF), last revised in 2007, gives the same part numbers for the sleeves and suggests the “AMP Part No. 169060” tool. The Electrical Wiring Diagram shows a similar tool, used only for copper wire repair, but it doesn’t give any part number or description.

I have the current TE 169060-8, and it’s a lightweight, stamped crimping and cutting tool for maintenance use, not much different from the original SUPER CHAMP tool (47100) (PDF) designed in 1955 by Aircraft-Marine Products, TE’s predecessor. It’s fine for emergency repairs, or to do a few crimps that you can examine closely.

Though my first inclination would be to prefer a controlled-cycle tool instead, unless it has exactly the right crimping die (as would the TE 45449 or TE 45450, at eye-watering cost), the results might actually be worse than those from careful use of a tool of the style suggested by Toyota.

I’m afraid not. Lobtex mentions only non-insulated terminals and sleeves on their page about the AK15A. In Service Bulletin S-1006, which introduced the 09042-2C100 tool for aluminum wire repair, Toyota wrote, “This tool is only for crimping sleeves without insulating coating, so it must not be used for insulating coating sleeves.”

 

Hmm. I suppose a person doing low-volume repairs, and more interested in minimal inventory than in saving the last possible penny, could just stock up on the Cu-Al-approved sleeves and heatshrink and use them for everything, and the Lobtex tool. Especially if they can be found in bulk for less than the dealer wants.

I've never liked the way those plastic-jacketed sleeves look after squishing, anyway....

 

Mike,
Did you end up getting the no-cost-to-you headlight warranty enhancement work done? I found it interesting that you noted there was a national shortage of the harness. When I took it in, the dealership said sure we'll do the work. They didn't tell me about a shortage. I found out much later that their version of splicing consists of overlapping the bare wires, wrapping them in a sleeve of tape, and calling it a day. One end of the wire pulls right out of the sleeve. I'm pretty sure they didn't do the work properly but they won't admit it, and corporate doesn't want to deal with it.