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New guy with a couple of questions

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Main Forum' started by Steelholder, Oct 25, 2022.

  1. Steelholder

    Steelholder Junior Member

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    Alright guys, I tested out the cruise control switch with my multimeter and the bottom two connections give a beep and stop with the plunger depressed, the top 2 do not beep and do not react; the top 2 activate the numbers on the screen with the plunger depressed but no beep.

    I drove it to test the cruise control using the levers to go up and down in speed. Once I hit the brakes it cuts it off and the the cruise control light starts to flash. I am unable to reset cruise control using the lever afterwards. I need to hit the on/off button then set cruise control again. Is this normal?
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Sounds as if it detected the disagreement of the two inputs, and signaled an error until you turned it on again.

    The switch terminals 1 and 2 should have continuity when the plunger is out. If the wire colors are the same as in my 2010, those'll be blue and black, respectively.

    The switch terminals 3 and 4 should have continuity when the plunger is in. Again, if the colors haven't changed, they'll be red and gray.

    It's possible they've made the switch using magnets and Hall sensors in a way that might not look exactly like a plain-Jane switch to a multimeter. You could do an equivalent check by backprobing pins 1 and 3 (blue and red) with the switch in place and the ignition on. Pin 3 (blue) should have 12 volts (relative to body ground) when the plunger is pressed. Pin 1 (red) should have 12 volts to body ground when the plunger is released.
     
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  3. Steelholder

    Steelholder Junior Member

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    Thanks Chapman, probably best to switch it out, clear the code and make sure nothing else pops up.
     
  4. Montgomery

    Montgomery Senior Member

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    Some people just wrap theirs. Seems to look good also.
     
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  5. Steelholder

    Steelholder Junior Member

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    Got some 3m wrap in the mail today, I'll post before and after pics.


     
  6. Steelholder

    Steelholder Junior Member

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    I know I'm jumping around a few different topics and fixes but regarding the egr/manifold clean. I'm also planning on swapping out the plugs while doing this. I'm watching tutorials and there seems to be a good amount of work and removal of parts. While I have everything removed could you guys please advise on ANY other parts to clean/upgrade etc.
     
  7. Steelholder

    Steelholder Junior Member

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    I'm reading up on the whole oil catch can thing and it's a new concept to me. Would this be a good time to add one? Is there a prius specific tutorial? How often must it be maintained/emptied? Does anyone sell a kit with all parts needed?

    This one seems to fit - is there a proven winner out there?

    https://www.lawntractorco.com/products/oil-catch-can-for-toyota?gclid=Cj0KCQjwteOaBhDuARIsADBqRejI_3fEfQGVHriUESl9Dnc01peCV9w7vcCf2uubKAlkLv-6vGJc5g0aAqj6EALw_wcB&variant=32819439796321
     
  8. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Seems like the cost is actually similar . Getting wrap on proper and tight. Vs paint . Seemingly timewise very similar . Kind of like the red barons plane body was done wood frame with mylar stretched over
     
  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    The thread by @danlatu is good, but lengthy. The strategy he proposes is good: cut the original PCV hose at middle, push on 3/8” barb splices (or Pex, easier if you want to disconnect) to both cut ends, and add 3/8” fuel line extensions (SAE30R6 or SAE30R7 is good spec fuel line, readily available by the foot in any city); run it to and from your can.

    FWIW: I use no hose clamps on the extra hose ends, no leaks, hoses free to rotate on barb connectors, less clutter, and I’ve read that’s the way to go, and less stress on hoses.

    I don’t think any can is “Prius specific”. I used Moroso 85474, but they are getting pricier, and they were pricey to begin with. They are very well made, pretty much last forever. Have an O-ring between the two body halves that might need replacement (if not lubed, gets stretched), I have it’s spec. and more info.

    Monitor more closely at first, till you get an idea how quickly it fills. I drain mine (two in series) every 6 months (with oil changes, they’re mounted low, only accessible from under the car). Only doing around 3k kms yearly, and getting 1/4 cup at most from either.

    Mine are mounted on a slotted angle bracket on lower/front cross beam. It flexes whenever you use front/centre jack point, so some strategy involved in mounting that bracket. I can share more tips on that if you go that route.

    6832352A-5ECA-4ADF-AD78-316A2DA66F7B.jpeg 306DB64C-1590-4FD4-A362-07093E6E9E5C.jpeg
     
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  10. Steelholder

    Steelholder Junior Member

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    Thanks Mednel, I'm trying to get all the California emissions implications figured out. I've heard I can't pass smog with one of these things attached. Nutzaboutboltz has a good tutorial, I may follow that path as it seems pretty simple. Any other obvious advantages to mounting it low vs high?
     
  11. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Doesn't somebody make a dual stage catch can so we don't have to use two complete separate moroso tanks holy mess just curious I thought that was a thing I mean where could this end you could have four of them strapped up in a row to catch a quarter of a cup and where would that quarter of a cup normally wind up in your intake burnt got it.?
     
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  12. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    BTW @danlatu thread linked in first link in my signature.

    yeah most mount high, in front corner of engine bay, just ahead of fuse box.

    Low mount works well if can has bottom drain. shorter hose runs and cleaner look too.

    I put two in series, cus I had ‘em, long story. Second can most effective through winter: spring drain yields more from second can than first, mostly water though.
     
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  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    That’s probably true. If they spot it. Which is a sand pounder: a non vented can, tightly installed, you are polluting less. :confused:

    I guess it’s just unapproved, full stop.

    FWIW, there’s a notice on my Moroso boxes, saying something like “not street legal”.
     
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  14. Steelholder

    Steelholder Junior Member

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    #34 Steelholder, Oct 27, 2022
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2022
  15. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    That should be your oil pressure sending unit leaking If not people have over poured oil and it ran under the plastic VVTI cover and drip down or the valve cover could be leaking but that's highly unlikely. And I would imagine if you mounted catch can or cans and you did it like Mendel did keep them low and to the side maybe even spray paint them black so they kind of look factory like some kind of vacuum reservoir or whatever and then of course if you don't have two of them it'll almost not be seen especially if it's blacked out and tucked away neatly most guys I would think would go right over that only in California maybe if it's a place where you don't go regularly and all that sort of thing you could possibly get caught up in the mess. But I know a lot of shady stuff has to go on this is where East LA is I have friends from online down there that are waiting for me to come out there that drive all kinds of cars that are not supposed to be on the road in California and don't have any problems per se so they must know something or what have you just like everywhere everywhere they tell me off you go here you can't do such and such and so and so. I get there and all my friends are like yeah that's just what's in the news once you get here this is how you do it. end of story story.
     
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  16. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Popping the hood on our 2010 you can’t see any sign of OCC, unless you look through all the spaghetti and plastic at just the right angle, and then just a glint…

    keeping the intake semi-clean is stealthy business…:rolleyes:
     
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  17. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    OP, that OCC you linked to is way too expensive. Search on eBay for a non-vented version that goes for around $30 and under.

    I'm using several layers of #5 stainless steel mesh, and stainless potscrubber as condensing material in my OCC. The idea being it functions like a pre-oiled air filter (K&N) using the fine metal mesh instead of cotton gauze to catch the oil droplets in mostly vapor form coming out of the PCV valve.

    Seems to be doing well. 20211202_114442.jpeg 20211115_104857.jpeg 20211113_084324.jpeg 20211109_112505.jpeg 20211113_153325.jpeg

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  18. Steelholder

    Steelholder Junior Member

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    Anyone else seen a leak in the same location? Sorry you guys have to click that link, not sure why I'm not able to post pics directly here.
     
  19. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    You're talking about the one in the link above which is dripping all or running down and blowing back all over your oil sender unit right in the picture it's all darker black yep I see it clearly My girls 2010 as the same problem and I'm going to be replacing the oil pressure switch that's right there and they're not that expensive they do blow out the seals go bad in them and starts coming through on the terminal side Good luck
     
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  20. Montgomery

    Montgomery Senior Member

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    Next year will be my first year to take my car to a smog inspection. Mine is mounted high and to the right. I will try to go to one station and see if they even notice it. If they do, off it goes. Then I will take it in, pass the inspection, take it home and install it all back.
     
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