New head gasket replacement video from Gasket Masters

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Mendel Leisk, Nov 21, 2019.

  1. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    Worth a watch:

     
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  2. RightOnTime

    RightOnTime Senior Member

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    Nice video


    iPhone ?
     
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  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    Here's the older video, covers some things that aren't in the new video:

     
  4. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Those might have been the mobile mechanics @SFO watched live:).

    Said they were in and out in 2 hours:whistle:.

    Not a bad gig for a days work(y).
     
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  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    Daughter hinted at the end, that they seem to be doing a LOT of Prius.
     
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  6. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Probably doesn’t need another day job ;).

    He probably makes s pretty comfortable living doing what he’s doing(y).
     
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  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    At 18:50 (of the video in first post) he describes the socket for removal of the head bolts as "size 12 triple-square". The Repair Manual calls for "10 mm bi-hexagon". I believe the latter is correct.

    Head bolt removal:

    upload_2019-11-22_9-21-29.png


    Gasket Masters' recommendation will work, it's close, but not ideal: it's points are a little too "sharp" (90 deg vs 60 deg), and the points a little more protruding (if I'm not mistaken, hard to find info). They do get the sequence right: when removing bolts, start from the outside and work inwards, and when installing from the center, work your way out.


    Head bolt install, note sequence is reverse of removal sequence:

    upload_2019-11-22_10-5-48.png

    Subsequent to above, tighten all bolts further, in the same sequence, first 90 degrees, then a further 45 degrees.

    One source for the 10 mm bi-hex:



    (AdBlock will hide the above.)
     

    Attached Files:

    #7 Mendel Leisk, Nov 22, 2019
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2019
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  8. iskoos

    iskoos Active Member

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    ^^^ Added the PDF to my Prius Documents.
    Hoping I would never need it:)

    I have seen another video from these guys. I recognized their voice. I think that video was linked by Mendel as well.

    It is so obvious that these guys done so many of these. The job seems like an oil change to them.
     
  9. iskoos

    iskoos Active Member

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    A Question about the crankshaft pulley bolt removal. I liked the way that they showed a method for guys who may not have an impact wrench.
    But one thing confuses me, HOW ON EARTH you briefly crank the Prius engine? The darn thing controls everything by himself. We have no control over when the engine is gonna start, when it will stop, how long the crank will last etc.

    Just curiosity...
     
  10. RightOnTime

    RightOnTime Senior Member

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    It may be possible if you disconnect the spark plugs or fuel injector harness.


    iPhone ?
     
  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    I "think" the engine crank was done when everything was still connected, at least all the stuff vital for engine running. I'd think his assistant put foot on brake, pushed start button, and 15 seconds or so later the engine kicked in. A split second or so: he pushed the power button a second time, to kill it.

    Maybe less excitement, and if possible: cobble some kinda flat bar with holes in it, space to coincide with the pulley wheel openings. Put bolts through, locked in those pulley holes, then rotate till the end of the flat bar is lodged against the ground. Maybe.

    Similar is done to break loose the nut at the end of the drive shaft, flat bar(s) locked on the wheel lugs.

    upload_2019-11-23_9-50-24.png
     
  12. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    I like how they ripped out every harness clip, used a metal razor blade on aluminum surfaces and didn’t degrease any of the surfaces before applying RTV. Oh, and they smeared on RTV instead of applying a bead.

    But for what they charge, what can you say?
     
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  13. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    MMM.... just jerk and yank on hoses... no big deal if they break or tear...
    Should have cleaned the silicone off BEFORE installing the head so it doesn't fall inside the engine.
    Aren't you supposed to put a dap of silicone on a few spots on the block before the
    head gasket goes on, or after???

    Just remember, it ain't THEIR engine! So things don't matter, just jerk it around.

    It's good to see the things you need to take off and the order. It would be smart to be more
    careful of the handling of wired and hoses. And do a better job of using the silicone.

    Also, will the clip that holds the piston back on the timing chain tensioner fall out of the
    way after tightening it up? Or do you have to unclip it?

    The video cut off before all the noises went away. DID THEY? Or did they NOT?
    That is the question! (n)

     
    #13 ASRDogman, Nov 25, 2019
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2019
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  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    Maybe they did, who knows. At any rate, you can. The form-in-place gasket tube instructions recommend to prep the surface I'm sure?

    I'm not so sure that's bad. It runs contrary to the Repair Manual instructions, but maybe that instruction is preferred by the engineers and draftsmen, simply because it's less ambiguous, easier to describe*. But other than that, who's to say it's better?

    The way he applies it, rhythmically putting dabs, every half-inch or so, is very hard to describe and quantify, but would I think be easy for hand application. Then he smears it, blends the dabs, and if he feels/sees a thin spot applies a little more, then blends again. Again, harder to describe in the Repair Manual, but easy and more controllable in practice?

    * I recall in my drafting days, doing a stair layout: stair came off a platform, down a flight, then turned 180 degrees outward, away from the platform above, and went another flight to grade. The engineer (a very bright guy who REALLY came up through the ranks), suggested I turn the stair the other way, doubling back towards the platform above, going under it (there was enough headroom), on the run down to grade.

    The reason being, there was nearby road, and the further out the stair jutted, the greater the risk of it getting hit.

    I went along with his suggestion, but joked that maybe it'd be better to leave it as-is, just because it was easier to draw, that turning it towards the platform I'd need another plan view, cut lower than the platform.
     
    #14 Mendel Leisk, Feb 9, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2020
  15. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    Maybe they also do some head rebuilding. Here he's demo'ing a home-made valve spring release tool:

     
  16. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    You can buy a spring tool for about $20.00

     
  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    Yeah I've watched @NutzAboutBolts demo of the tool, but I'm always intrigued by something cobbled together, by someone in the business.
     
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  18. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    It's a nice tool. Needs some tuning, but a nice tool.
    He copied the idea of the one that has hooks the go under the cam shaft.
     
    #18 ASRDogman, Feb 10, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2020
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  19. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    The purpose of a bead is to allow for an even film to be created when the two surfaces are squeezed together. If an individual can "spread" an even coat without thin spots then the same purpose can be accomplished. However, IME, squeezing a bead (~3mm) is definitely the best way to accomplish this consistently with each repair.
     
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  20. Figster10

    Figster10 Member

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    With the head on and engine on car and instructions manual in hand why Is it so hard to lock timing chain tensioner? I get little slack but I'm scared if I do everything without locking timing chain tensioner I could screw myself when i put everything back together
     
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