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New option for Easy HID to LED headlights

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Another, Apr 14, 2022.

  1. Another

    Another Senior Member

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    ALLA lighting has been offering HID to LED modules for a while. Previously their LEDs required splicing wires, taping off and not using the HID ballasts. This now has changed with the new ones using the same plug and ballasts.

    The new offerings are Plug and Play replacements for $90 per pair with the usual caution on use

    https://allalighting.com/products/d4s-d4r-led-headlights-bulb-canbus-replace-hid-headlamp

    About this item
    D4S D4R LED headlights bulbs, CANBus error free, NEWEST plug and play, easy installation replace HID(High Intensity Discharge) headlamps, no modifications required, just about 10~20 minutes.

    Extreme super bright 6000K~6500K xenon white D4R D4S LED headlight bulb, more than 200% brighter than OEM HID xenon headlamps and anti-glare upgrade for better beam pattern, better vision, luxury improvements and safer driving.
     
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  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Yes that'll be great for folks that don't want to deal with it. Plug n go . I'm using beamtech S1 in halogen housings. Can't justify the work modding this headlamp to a projector style as they don't spend enough time on the road at night anymore
     
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  3. Another

    Another Senior Member

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    Most people I think would like simple rather than complex if it works. They say the form factor and display pattern is comparable to HID, in fact optimized whatever that means.
     
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  4. nate358

    nate358 Junior Member

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    Thanks for posting! Ordering this for my brother's 2007 HID system tonight.... He has been dealing with the flickering headlights since he bought it used 8 years ago...

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  5. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Yeah but still when that ballast starts to go bad then you're brand new $90 bulbs don't like and you're back to square one and either buying another ballast or ripping that all out and wiring in something like the beam tech s1 series their highest in bulbs at the making about $35 a piece sometimes you can get a set of them for like $55 they are bright as all get out the beams line up to a halogen almost exactly etc etc and the wiring is stupid easy I went ahead and bought new halogen housings when I did mine because mine were quite worn and no matter even sanding them didn't clean them up the new ones look great nobody makes projectors for the gym too you have to make them yourself better live on the road at night for that
     
  6. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    But then if the ballast goes bad using this system you have to replace that ballast you can't just wire that fancy bulb like you would aftermarket LED because this is been made to run off the ballast or something so I don't think you can just wire it up plainly maybe you can so you're still kind of half stuck in the same problem you had when the ballast goes bad I mean
     
  7. Another

    Another Senior Member

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    I liked your indecipherable posts better, they made more sense
    .
     
  8. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I'm just trying to figure out why somebody would pay $90 to run off the ballast of the HID system when they're 20 plus years old and could be failing so then when this goes down you have to fix the ballast to the original system to make your LEDs work correct? That to me is working backwards mine just has the s1 in the halogen type housings which you can take off another car if you really don't want to buy them and wire directly to the car so if the car had relays to the low and high beams I am connected to them like I would think I should be. Not adding more relays down the line for a bulb that uses less amps.
     
  9. highmilesgarage

    highmilesgarage Active Member

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    I did 2 types of LED conversion on my Prius;

    - HID to LED using HALOGEN headlight assembly, using H4 LED with fan. My car originally has the HID headlight assembly on the passenger side, due to deer collision the previous owner bought a matching assembly but it was for HALOGEN (he can't find a cheap HID assembly) The HALOGEN assembly accepts H4 LED bulb without any issues, you just need to wire the 3 terminals correctly. 1 is negative and the other 2 are the low bean and high beam. The H4 LED bulb has a cup for the low beam light and the other high beam has none. This cup should be positioned down or the LED sideways. I bought a cheap LED katana headlights for $22 in amazon. The high beam connection is basically the connector that goes to the shutter/dimmer solenoid. Disconnect that and connect it to the high beam terminal of the bulb.



    - HID to LED using HID (existing assembly), using the extra H4 LED, I have to trim the holder so that it will fit the HID socket. Removed the cup in the LED bulb. Disconnected the ballast wire and connected it to the low beam terminals, for the high beam, I tap a connection from the solenoid wire (dimmer/shutter) and connected it to the high beam terminal.



    - HID to LED using HID (existing assembly), using D4 LED disconnect the ballast wire and connect it directly to the LED bulb, leave the solenoid (dimmer/shutter) alone. This setup is easy and better.
     
  10. highmilesgarage

    highmilesgarage Active Member

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    totally agree, paying $$ just for the sake of plug and play. Just cut the ballast wires, you don't need them. For LEDs no relays needed, keep it simple. D4 LEDs are below $50 in amazon (you can find cheaper than that)
     
  11. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    I agree. I recently rewired some home fluorescent (T4 bulb) lights. The first step in each case was to remove the ballast(s). Then the LED bulbs only have to deal with 120VAC, but the situation in a car is even better for the LED bubs, with 12VDC power. So no AC to DC conversion required. At least it is simpler if there is no ballast to deal with. HID has three output phases: ignition, warm up, and continuous operation. The "LED for HID" bulbs would have to handle all three, and fake any feedback signals the ballast needs to determine which one it is in.
     
  12. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Well you have special requirements there I already have the correct housing so that made everything a lot easier you on the other hand had to do both conversions if you will Great at least you have headlights.
     
  13. Another

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    It’s called simplicity. Once and done. Worked for me. Better light output as well.
     
  14. ColoradoCrow

    ColoradoCrow Active Member

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    Looking to do this as a winter project. I have HID with badly yellowed housings....im going to buy new HALOGEN housings like thesehttps://a.co/d/4Ef8QHm

    and pair them with the alla lighting LED.s. https://a.co/d/6iMJNZ0
    Is this what you did Another?
     
  15. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    You should try to go fanless regardless of what you're doing like the auxbeam S1 series. It'll just save you some noise. I don't know if the manufacturer will replace when the fan start making a racket not sure about that I just wanted to try and avoid that I had a set with fans that started making a racket and they were bought from some company that I couldn't find again funny name brand and everything and then the fanless came out so I never looked back
     
  16. ColoradoCrow

    ColoradoCrow Active Member

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    copy That I will seek out fanless ones as well.
     
  17. Another

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    See post #1 for link to what I bought. I clean the yellow plastic and put protectant on it