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NEW!!! Service Bulletin for Engine Knocking at Startup T-SB 0012-10

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by seilerts, Jan 12, 2012.

  1. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    He may be right.

    Yeah try that first. Just maybe they'll come through for say 50%. Reimbursement for the Intake Manifold would be nice too...

    Just be candid, let them know your level of car awareness, bring all your documents, thing positive.
     
  3. GerryC11Pr

    GerryC11Pr Junior Member

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    My 2011 has 172k, I think I posted another thread.. Just changed the plugs, knocking went away for about a few miles lol, still knocking.

    There's another user that told me he changed plugs/cleaned egr valve but didn't work, then he removed the fuel injectors and cleaned them and noise gone.

    I am probably going to take it to a shop, I will contact Hybrid Pit in Anaheim for info, thanks for posting. I "could" do the work but don't have that much time in the day and don't want to miss work. Think it took me 1.5 hours to do plugs. Injectors shouldn't take long either. But wife wants her car back .

    Attached are the plugs.

    Thanks
    Gerry
     

    Attached Files:

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  4. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Are you losing any engine coolant?

    Looks like two of the plugs have a white residue on them like they have been exposed to water.
     
  5. GerryC11Pr

    GerryC11Pr Junior Member

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    Coolant. . I do see it getting low, so yeah.
     
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  6. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    That is probably the root of your issues.
     
  7. GerryC11Pr

    GerryC11Pr Junior Member

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    So possible HG?
     
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  8. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    I would say so:(.
     
  9. GerryC11Pr

    GerryC11Pr Junior Member

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    I cleaned out the egr tube, cleaned the injectors, now looking inside cylinders for moisture. Here are some photos... Also I pulled the plugs and three of four are clean....
     

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  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    How involved was the injector removal? Could you summarize a quick step-by-step? I believe the repair manual says to pull off the rear seat, loosen something at the fuel pump to relieve pressure: overkill?

    @NutzAboutBolts should do a video... :whistle:

    Thanks for the pictures btw, and I appreciate you've got some headaches with this car, hope it works out. (y)
     
    #970 Mendel Leisk, Aug 7, 2018
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2018
  11. GerryC11Pr

    GerryC11Pr Junior Member

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    Yeah that part I forgot to do lol, wasnt sure how to so just pulled them and out leaked some fuel, with each injector. If you do it like I did, just make sure its cold engine, so if fuel comes out it doesnt start fire lol. But have plenty rags to clean up fuel loss.

    Someone mentioned, in another thread that there is a bolt to remove on side of block where tubing runs, but I didnt remove it, I just pull the rail out a bit and flexed the tube doing so, to remove the fourth injector no biggie.

    Its not that bad to go thru, I followed nutznbolts youtube for removing the egr tube, so with all that out of way I went in to get the injectors. There is on clip that is cumbersome to disengage, its holding the cables for the injectors, pain to remove. Other than that pretty easy. Just two bolts holding the rail.
     
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  12. GerryC11Pr

    GerryC11Pr Junior Member

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    This is the one that gave me trouble, it has a clip underneath and difficult to get to... And doesn't look like the others.
     

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  13. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    How many miles on the clock?
     
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  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Here's the Repair Manual instruction. I see it says to remove the entire EGR first. You were doing that anyway, but do you think it's actually necessary if you just wanted to remove the fuel injectors? You mention having the EGR pipe only removed, perhaps that's enough?

    I've had the EGR completely off, but that's not something you want to do unless you really need to, lol. I find the Repair Manual routinely goes waay overboard regarding how much removal is needed to access things.

    Thanks for the hands-on info, much appreciated. (y)
     
  15. GerryC11Pr

    GerryC11Pr Junior Member

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  16. GerryC11Pr

    GerryC11Pr Junior Member

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    Yeah I think that's to remove the assembly completely for table top repair.. Not necessary to remove... The seat removal I think is to remove battery cable? Then just remove the basics, intake filter assembly then the cups to harness, that one I mentioned the clip is upside down, I had to use an angled pick tool to get it... Then unplug connections remove to bolts, then pull back on fuel rail from left to right slowly as you remove each one.. Rag to clean up fuel spill unless you cut it off somewhere like manual says.

    Gerry
     
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  17. GerryC11Pr

    GerryC11Pr Junior Member

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    I gave up on playing with it, don't have time to keep taking this off that off maybe it's this... My roommate says that I can do the hg myself yeah sure... And he's the mechanic. I'm taking to shop after I wake up, let a professional diagnose it.
     
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  18. GerryC11Pr

    GerryC11Pr Junior Member

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    Update:

    I took car to work, no noise upon leaving, on way to work nothing, leave work for lunch no noise, leave lunch to work I get noise about 3 seconds. As I sit idling at parking lot it rumbles hard for about 15 seconds... Back to drawing board, or shop.
     
  19. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Just summing up, is this right:

    1. You haven't cleaned the whole EGR circuit yet, all the way back through the valve, cooler, to the connection to exhaust manifold?

    2. You're losing coolant?
     
  20. GerryC11Pr

    GerryC11Pr Junior Member

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    Yes thats correct, I only had time to clean the easiest to get to EGR tube, the Intake I didnt clean, though it could use one.

    Coolant I did lose, but I dont see any in the cylinders, I scoped them out and only see oil residue
     

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